For awhile it was having a bad skipping/misfire under heavy acceleration, spark plugs were pretty new so changed the wires with a brand new set, after that the car ran terribly, very rough, maybe only running on 2-3 cyl, way down on power etc. Messed around with it and when using all the old wires and replaced just cyl 2 it stopped skippping but is still running a bit rough. Also down on MPG, dropped from 35mpg on highway to about 30.

If replace the old wire it skips but runs smooth with not. I'm thinking the wires are defective since a brand new set shouldn't be garbage, but should I be looking at anything else?

http://www.probeaddiction.com/engine.htm

1993 Mazda MX-6 V6 LS automatic

problem: erratic idle, shuts off at red lights at times. stinky exhaust.

history: sitting for 8 months, bought by my friend, had old fuel in it. put new 5 dollars of fuel (a gallon and a half), still shutting off.

possible solution by us: replace fuel filter and fill it up with new gas and a bottle of fuel system cleaner.

now....gurus of mx-6's.... what is ur input on this? is our diagnosis correct or is there more to it?

That's right, after little over a year it is already time for my little black Eunie to find a new home. As with my previous cars, it will be sold on Ebay, and I just have to sort out final details with the finance company. The decision has been made quickly but there's no real reason not to take this path. The main reasons are:

1) In terms of how infrequently it is driven and how much effort put into detailing/maintenance I'm up there with BHR standards. Problem is that as good a car as it is, it is neither a rare/desirable model here, nor has it been maintained to anywhere near my standards since new. I could go down the same path as the 800M, of trying in futility to throw money to improve its overall condition. Or I could learn from the past and aim to buy a new or truly immaculate car and then maintain it to my standards.

2) Because my work is in public transport I get free travel and know the system well enough to not need a car at all. This has allowed me to preserve the Eunie as I have, but that isn't really achieving much (see point 1) and I have worked out that I can get out of all debt in no time and save for much bigger plans by having no car for a while.

What is next is unclear, though I have developed a strong preference for Australian-made cars. Who knows... watch this space.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The Eunos 500 was a luxury car from Mazda's Eunos marque. Sold only from 1992 through 1999, the Eunos 500 exported as the Xedos 6 and used the Mazda C platform. The same vehicle would have perhaps been exported to the United States as the Amati 300 if the Amati marque had been launched. The vehicle was renamed Mazda Lantis after the demise of the Eunos brand and being slightly refreshed.

Engines:

• 1.8 L FP-DE DOHC I4
• 1.8 L K8-ZE DOHC V6
• 2.0 L KF-ZE DOHC V6

Diagram taken from Bradbury website.

Volume: 2497 ccm

Bore x stroke: 84,5 x 74,2

Compression Ratio: 9,2:1

DIN Hp: 165 @ 5600 RPM

Torque Nm: 217 @ 4800 RPM

Valve/valveseat angle: 45/45

Compression, bar: 14,02 (min 9,81, max difference 2,0)

Oil Pressure: 4,9 @ 3000 RPM / min 3,40 @ 3000 RPM

Thermostat opening: 80-84 Celsius

Electrode gap: 1,0-1,1 mm

Firing Order: 1-2-3-4-5-6

Ignition: 10 degrees BTDC +/- 1 @ 650 RPM

Injector Resistance: 12-16 Ohm

Coolant Temp. sensor 20 C / 80 C: 2,2-2,7 KOhm / 0,28-0,35 KOhm

IAT sensor 20 C / 60 C: 2,0-3,0 KOhm / 0,4-0,7 KOhm

Idle speed: ´650 PRM +/- 50

Generator Max Amp: 90A

Cylinder Head tightening sequence:

8 4 1 5

7 3 2 6

Cylinder head tightening torque(oiled):

Step 1: 23-26 Nm

Step 2: 90 deg +/- 5

Step 3: 90 deg +/- 5

Bolt length(max): 135,0mm

Main Bearing Bolts tightening torque: 23-25 Nm (short bolts: 18-21 Nm)

Connecting rod bolts tightening torque: 22-27 Nm + 90 deg + 90 deg

Flywheel Bolts tightening torque: 61-67 Nm Oiled

Camshaft wheels/bearings torque: 123-140 Nm / 11-14 Nm

Spark Plugs: 15-22 Nm

Engine Oil Capacity(incl. filter): 4,0 L

Gearbox oil capacity: 2,7 L

Auto tranny oil capactiy: 8,8 L

Power Steering liquid capacity: 1,25 L

Coolant Liquid Capacity: 7,5 L

It is real easy to do. If all you are replacing is the front, it's not a big deal. The rear one is alot more time consuming (as you have to remove the fuel rail, IM, etc for access). Here is the info for replacing the front:

Tools:

Valve cover gasket

RTV sealant

gasket remover or screwdriver

10mm socket driver (I think)

1) disconnect the battery

2) remove the PCV valve (the thing going into the top of the valve cover

3) Unbolt the valve cover

When you take off the valve cover, use a screwdriver or gasket scraper to clean out the entire length of where the VCG was. It may take you an hour if you are really diligent (like me), but it's better than getting a leak. Test fit the new VCG to make sure it fits. Make sure you spend an equal amount of time cleaning off the the area where the VC was seated. After you do that, put a thin line of RTV in the groove on the VC where the new VCG will fit, near the outer edge on the bottom. The reason for this is that if you use too much RTV and you seal the VC down, the extra RTV will just fill the groove and not go into the oil. DO NOT PUT ALOT OF RTV ON. If you do, it may squeeze out when you tighten the bolts and then you could get RTV in your valve train or oil senders. Not good. But don't worry, this isn't a hard project at all. Once you have seated the new VCG on the VC, let it sit a minute then put the VC back on. Make sure you torque the bolts in a pattern similar to the way you do your tires (top left, bottom right, etc). Tighten them to pretty well, but don't force them. Check the edges to make sure NO parts of the VCG are bulging out. If it is, start over again. No need to buy another VCG if you have to start again as the new one will work fine. Once done, hook everything up and run the car. Drive for about 30 minutes and then stop and check for leaks. You should be all set now. Don't buy the VCG from the dealer, they will rip you. I got mine for $19 from www.thepartsbin.com. Here is the link. Free UPS shipping, too! You may also want to invest in some valve cover seal washers.. You will see where they need to go when you take the VC off. Mine were new, so I didn't replace them.

for the original idea and write up. A great idea with a practical purpose and snailman at 626.net

NOTE: All pictures shown are hosted from the uploads site. However, if you need a larger/higher resolution picture, they are hosted on the links above or below the picture.

Background:

This modification is intended to remedy a common problem that occurs on many '93/'94 (and '92 in AUS) V6 Mazda 626/MX-6/MX-3/Millenia ignition systems. The distributor on these cars has both the coilpack and igniter module built-in, which while a space-saving design, is prone to heat-related failure (the distributor bolts straight to the head of the motor). Specifically, a transistor within the igniter module fails (either permanently or intermittently) causing weak/no ignition spark. Symptoms range from rough idle, poor performance, struggling to achieve higher RPM's, and even intermittent loss of engine power. In extreme cases, the car will not start at all, or will restart once the motor has cooled down. The problem only gets worse. Also contained within the distributor are two hall effect sensors; one is used to determine the crankshaft position, the other, camshaft position.

One solution to the problem is to use a larger, cheap, reliable igniter--the HEI module used on many 70's and 80's era GM vehicles, including their well-known 350 V8. This module can handle firing 8 cylinders up to at least 7,000 rpm, so it should be able to keep pace on our V6 to at least 9,300 rpm (well above the rev limiter). The part costs $13 at Advance Auto Parts (mfr. is GP Sorensen, part number EL102; other brands will work fine).

Here is a picture of the igniter module and hall sensors (i.e. camshaft and crank position) (it's pretty small, about 3/4" in length). The igniter module is the square-looking thing with 5 pins (only 3 are used), and is mounted flush in the bracket. The other two modules are the hall sensors.

IGNITER/HALL SENSOR FULL RESOLUTION

Here is an image of all of the distributor parts, disassembled. To take it apart, you just remove all of the screws and pull it apart in layers. The screws are on very tight (lock washers) and a vise and large flat-tip screwdriver are very helpful.

DISTRIBUTOR PARTS FULL RESOLUTION

Additional Notes

This modification can be adapted to work for the '95 and later models as well, however since I did not perform the modification on any other than the '93/'94, the only suggestion I have for you if this applies is to compare the wiring diagrams given in the Joe Bialy write-up. Several users on ProbeTalk have gotten this to work on their '95 models.

Tools and Supplies Needed

• 8 mm ratchet (to remove distributor cap)
• 12 mm ratchet (to remove distributor)
• Vise/clamp to hold distributor while you loosen screws
• Large phillips and flat-tip screwdriver
• #2 Phillips Screwdriver
• Soldering Iron
• Solder
• Spade Terminals (1 small, several large)
• Ring terminal (small)
• GP Sorensen EL102 (or equivalent) HEI module (many other HEI modules will work fine)

Joe Bialy's write-up is available at this link:

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php...65&page=1&pp=25

Another useful and helpful site:

http://www.incony.org/KLZEWiki/pwp_1-4-2/w...wPage&iPage=HEI

I performed the same result, but without hacking up the wiring harness as these folks did. Instead, since I had a spare distributor, I made the modifications to the wiring inside the distributor. This has two advantages--I can revert to the factory configuration (since the factory harness is uncut) by simply swapping in a factory distributor (or soldering the factory igniter back inside and removing the 3 wires); it also provides less risk to your car (i.e. many people do this mod before replacing the distributor...well after you cut the factory harness, and this doesn't work, you have to revert to the factory configuration and put in a new distributor anyway) and is again, easier to reverse.

Steps:

• Disassemble the distributor. Start by removing the cap and rotor, and then the screw to the condenser/capacitor on the housing.
• Next remove the rotor shaft screw, and the 4 screws holding the dust cover and coilpack down.
• Disconnect the metal band going from the middle pin of the 3-harness plug to a small screw (NOTE: It's not really the "middle pin" it just looks like it is)
• Gently pull out all of the "guts"
• Pry/bend/cut out the igniter, making sure to leave plenty of room to solder on the pin closest to the outside of the distributor.
• Solder a ~2 foot length of wire onto the outside pin that was previously connected to the igniter. This goes to the "Blue/Orange" wire referred to in Joe Bialy's original write-up, and is internally connected to the far-left pin of the (distributor side) connector. You will onnect the other end of the wire (with spade terminals and solder) to pin "G" of the HEI module.
• Solder another wire to the middle female spade terminal of the 3-pin connector (it's the one with the metal strap). This wire is the "Yellow/Green" wire in Joe Bialy's original write up. It will connect to pin "C" of the HEI module, and is internally connected to the far right pin of the 3-pin harness (distributor side).
• There are two more female spade terminals left on the 3-pin harness. Solder a wire to the one that is spaced furthest from the other two. Looking at it from the harness/connector side outside the distributor, it's the one on the far left. This is the "Black/Pink" wire in Joe Bialy's original writeup, and will connect to pin "B" of the HEI module.
• Route the wires in such a way to avoid getting them pinched by the assembly when reassembled. To do this I had to melt a tiny hole in the edge of both the dust cover and distributor cap. Also, make sure you avoid running the wires too close to the ignition coil or you may pick up noise.
• In addition to melting/cutting a small space for the wires to feed through, you need to cut off the two small tabs on the dust cover that separated the 3 spade terminals on the 3-prong connector. This is because the wires and solder are too thick for it to fit in between. Make sure of course that the wires and prongs are not bent/touching each other (bend them apart as necessary).
• Wrap the 3 wires together with electrical tape, leaving a region so that you can feed them through the distributor cap.
• Reassemble the distributor, being careful not to pinch the wires. Make sure the assembly spins freely without obstruction.
• Mount the HEI module to a SOLID GROUNDING POINT. The module has 4 pins, but it gets its grounding through one of the mounting bolt holes. It will flow between 5 and 10 amps of current, so it needs a solid ground. Also, ground pin "W" (small wire is ok for pin "W").

This is the pin you must solder a wire to, and connect to pin "G" of the HEI module. You must first completely remove the igniter module (either cut, bend/snap the connections, or desolder...desolder failed for me, as you need a high-power soldering station since the mfr. used high-temp solder).

This shows all 3 wires soldered, with the hall sensor wheels installed.

http://mazda626.servehttp.com:8080/HEI/IMG_0364.JPG

Modified distributor cap:

http://mazda626.servehttp.com:8080/HEI/IMG_0365.JPG

Close up of wires coming through distributor cap:

http://mazda626.servehttp.com:8080/HEI/IMG_0366.JPG

Shot of final assembly:

http://mazda626.servehttp.com:8080/HEI/IMG_0368.JPG You can also connect an external ignition coil (first remove the internal one). This wiring diagram is correct for both setups (with and without external coil), except of course if you want to use the stock coil simly don't hook up the two wires for the external coil:

(Image courtesy of incony.org)

Source:

http://www.incony.org/KLZEWiki/pwp_1-4-2/w...wPage&iPage=HEI

The wire colors may not match your distributor, but the pin locations are correct for the '93/'94 models (as described in the Procedure).

You also need to add a prong to your distributor cap if you want to run the external coil, and connect it to the coil with an ignition wire. Alternatively, you can use a KL-ZE distributor cap (or a KF-ZE), as these cars came with external coils on essentially the same distributor from the factory.

Here's a backup link of the same file:

WIRING DIAGRAM

Here is an alternative (same information) represenation of the same diagram (thanks Omaha95PGT and Joe Bialy, from ProbeTalk):

Source:

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php...65&page=2&pp=25

Backup link:

http://mazda626.servehttp.com:8080/HEI/wir...ringdiagram.gif

Mazda 626 Rough And Rolling Idle

After a normal drive, 10 to 15 minutes, if I pull to a stop, and then shift to PARK, the engine stops by itself; if I don't shift to PARK and just keep the brake on, it runs fine, engine speed stays at 500 rpm, don't know if that's too low.

Then if I start the car again, the engine speed gauge jumps to 1,000 to 1,500 rpm upon ignition, then it would drop below 500 rpm, dangerously dangling near 0, with the engine body vibrating and shaking, as if it's going to stall, then after 3 or 4 seconds of struggling, it would come back and the speed gauge stays around 500 rpm.

This does not seem to happen when the car is cold, such as when I start it in the morning, engine starts at about 500 rpm, or when I drive it for a short distance. What could be the problem? Could it be that I haven't changed the timing belt? On rainy or damping days, I often hear squeak noise from the engine that sounds like loose belt, is that related to this problem?

• 1996 Mazda 626 LX
• 2.0-liter DOHC-16V
• Automatic transmission
• 69,000 miles
• Fuel Injection
• P/S, A/C, Cruise control

DESCRIPTION:

Some vehicles with over 20,000 miles may experience any or all of the symptoms listed below. This may be caused by contamination build-up on the heated elements of the mass airflow sensor (MAFS). MAFS with date codes after 5K05 (1995, October, 5th) are less susceptible to contamination. Customers complaining of these symptoms should have their vehicles inspected and, if necessary, repaired according to this bulletin.

SYMPTOMS:

• MIL illumination
• Rough Idle
• Hesitation
• Lack of power
• DTC 181 (OBD I vehicles)

While you have things apart, you may as well give the throttle body a good cleaning as well. here's how to do it.

1. Remove the throttle body. Refer to section F of the workshop manual.

   NOTE: DO NOT remove the IAC Valve (V6), ISC Valve (4cyl) or the TPS.

2. Thoroughly clean around the IAC Valve (V6), ISC Valve (4cyl) and the Air Adjust Screw ports in the bore of the throttle body. Use a clean shop towel for cleaning.

1. Apply masking tape to fully cover the IAC Valve ("6), the ISC Valve (4cyl) and the Air Adjust Screw ports in bore of the throttle body.

1. Looking at the back of the throttle body, cover the IAC Valve (V6), ISC Valve (4cyl) and the Air Adjust Screw pons with masking tape.

1. Fill a small container (glass or cup) with Heritage S.W. 1000.

1. Place a small plastic bucket or drain pan under the throttle body and slowly pour the container of solution through the throttle body bore.
2. Pour the solution in the bucket or drain pan back into the small container.
3. Repeat steps 6 and 7 (five to six times).
4. Allow the throttle body to sit for 5 minutes.

1. Use a shop towel to wipe carbon deposits from the throttle body bore and throttle valve.

1. Repeat steps 6 - 10 if necessary.
2. Blow the residue from the throttle body with compressed air.
3. Remove all masking tape.
4. Install a new gasket.
5. Install the throttle body.
6. Start engine and run to normal operating temperature.
7. Inspect idle speed, adjust if necessary