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      Original posted by "Anubis"   HAH! forget millenia. it has it for every mazda ever made. (well most )   here is the website:   http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...p;siteid=214264   enjoy guys.   *Administrative pin - Synesthesia
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///BHRpowered

Dynamat On Doors?

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All it does is minimize vibration, and it's no more than 1/8" thick. You leave the holes so that you have access to the inside of the door. If you didn't, good luck changing a window motor or lock actuator.

Nice work btw dubbs.

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BLAU!!

 

 

I know I am raising this post from the dead put I just want to add my $.02 The reason car makers use the clear plastic sheet covering the door is to keep moistuer out of the passenger compartment. Covering the door with dynomat is cool just reuse the plastic to cover the holes or cut out pieces of plastic and tape them over the holes.

 

As for which part of the door to dynomat well that depends. This is how I prefer to do it :

For total isolation do all 3 surfaces 1. Door skin 2. Trim mounting panel 3. Only if you are a serious SQ competitor. The trim panel itself (You can use acoustical foam instead of dynomat if you prefer)

or

Door skin (since this is the panel that is going to vibrate the most due to its large surface area) and a 12" piece mounted to the trim mounting panel sandwiched between the speaker (or speaker mounting panel) and speaker hole itself (to dampen speaker vibrations) with a 12" piece of acoustical foam mounted directly behind the speaker on top of the dynomat on the door skin.

 

 

:rockon:

 

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just thought i'd help give some more info on deadening...

 

I did my entire trunk (lid, sides, floor) with Damplifier. I also did my drivers and passenger door.

 

Damplifier is cheaper than Dynamat Extreme and has been proven to be the equivalent of Dynamat EXTREME. I ordered 80 square feet and it was perfect for my job. it is made by second skin audio.

 

You will need a small wall paper roller. the roller is like 2 inches wide or so. all you do is cut the pieces with a shop knife, peel the backing, stick it on and then roll it on well. you want it to last so make sure it is rolled down everywhere.

 

When doing your doors, make sure you do both the inner and outer walls of the door. i would start with the outer because you will need to put pieces through the holes in your door and it can get a little tight putting your hands in there.

 

Be careful when you are doing your trunk lid. Make sure you don't put any deadener past where the trunk lid meets the weather stripping. i made this mistake and when we got our first rain i had a puddle of water in the spare tire well. luckily my carpet wasn't back in so it only got on my deadener. It is a pain to remove the stuff so be sure you know where you want to put it and what areas you want to stay away from.

 

Overall, deadening is extremely easy, but it can be hard to twist your body in order to get it into tricky areas.

 

BHR you asked about covering the holes. I probably wouldn't put deadener over the holes, but one thing alot of people do is cut a piece of plexi glass and seal it over the hole. I haven't done this, but a ton of people on the car audio forum i'm on suggest it to really help the midbass.

 

hopefully that will be helpful!

 

the roller i used is sitting on the sill of the trunk.

 

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:thumbup1:

 

not sure if i really clarified what the inner and outer walls are on the door panel. outer is closer to the outside of the car. as you can see i deadened there and it really helps.

 

try the knock test. knock on your door without deadener and then knock on a door with deadener. it is pretty cool.

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