ChiTown Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Mine is dated 06/94, and MillyOwner's is a couple months older than that (I want to say it is 04/94), both OBD-II. Are you really sure that it was not compatible? The port is in an obscure place, and the stickers state that it is OBD-I. In almost every old post I have read through, people are convinced that there is no port, when they look in the correct place it is there. I could not find a single person who posted that they did not have a port with any evidence that it was true, and many that later found it. I am also not sure if MillyOwner has a 95 S or L, I suppose it could be something they tried on the S in early production and not the L... Well i wont be able to confirm anything but if somehow you could read a code yourself on my old milly (95 2.5?L) I would have been a much happier owner. I was never able to get a reader to work or get anyone but the dealer to give me a code, i am not a mechanic however. My old 95 milly was also strange in that it had square ported manifold like the JDM milly. well i pulled the codes on an obd2 reader and the codes above are the codes it puled i just finished replacing all of my vacuum lines and it runs alot better but it still dies when i come to a stop is that because of the Egr? also when i pulled the front intercooler (or whatever it is call on a S/C) it had a lot of oil in it and a bunch of my vacuum lines have oil in them and about the PCV valve i pulled the hose off of it and placed a filter over both ends and the car ran alot better i think most of theoil in my intake is from that stupid valve the egr is simple to check. remove egr vac line from the egr valve and plug it...if engine condition improves then check the egr solenoids, vac lines, and the valve itself. I just finished troubleshooting this on my car. As MTS said, shake PCV...if it rattles then its ok. vac lines shouldnt have oil in them...they need replacing and may help source your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MURRAYBRYSON786 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 so about the PCV valves $7 Jiffy lube i worked there for 2 years. i routed my last car so it didn't have a PCV valve i just put a breather on the PCV hole on the valve cover and plugged the hole on the intake and it ran better. just wondering if that is possible on the millenia S i don't have a lot of experience with SC's and well dose it need it or can i just get rid of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MURRAYBRYSON786 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 ok so i think i may have found my biggest problem of all (i feel so stupid) and i n 1 hour when my gasket drys (egr i pulled it and well there was no gasket and i put it back on and i leaked fumes and smoke car would not start) i went o clean the MAF sensor because some one said that that might help so i went to pull it out and low and be hold it wasn't plugged in it was lined up just under the port so when you looked at it it looked plugged in but when i pulled on it i discovered that it wasn't plugged in. so i got the car back from some mechanic and well now i am wondering if i can really call him that he didn't even plug in everything he unplugged. so in 20 min i will know if that was the cause of all my stress this is so stupid!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 so about the PCV valves $7 Jiffy lube i worked there for 2 years. i routed my last car so it didn't have a PCV valve i just put a breather on the PCV hole on the valve cover and plugged the hole on the intake and it ran better. just wondering if that is possible on the millenia S i don't have a lot of experience with SC's and well dose it need it or can i just get rid of it This is not a good idea in any car. It has a purpose there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MURRAYBRYSON786 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 ok so i think i may have found my biggest problem of all (i feel so stupid) and i n 1 hour when my gasket drys (egr i pulled it and well there was no gasket and i put it back on and i leaked fumes and smoke car would not start) i went o clean the MAF sensor because some one said that that might help so i went to pull it out and low and be hold it wasn't plugged in it was lined up just under the port so when you looked at it it looked plugged in but when i pulled on it i discovered that it wasn't plugged in. so i got the car back from some mechanic and well now i am wondering if i can really call him that he didn't even plug in everything he unplugged. so in 20 min i will know if that was the cause of all my stress this is so stupid!!!! so i got my codes read again after my most recent discovery and 3 of the 4 codes were gone but 2 new code appeared Po1oo= the same as before P1oB9=are these dealer codes? BooF8=what is a B code for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 I dont think there is B or F in the code. B as the first letter stands for "body". It is typically a short or open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 so about the PCV valves $7 Jiffy lube i worked there for 2 years. i routed my last car so it didn't have a PCV valve i just put a breather on the PCV hole on the valve cover and plugged the hole on the intake and it ran better. just wondering if that is possible on the millenia S i don't have a lot of experience with SC's and well dose it need it or can i just get rid of it This is not a good idea in any car. It has a purpose there. The reason for a PCV is to relieve positive crankcase pressure, as pressure increases so does flammability of oil fumes (much the concept of a diesel engine, compression ignition). Therefore the PCV is incorporated into the intake system, so that the oil fumes are contained within the engine, so that they are not just relieved to atmosphere unchecked. Rather they are consumed by the engine, and then the toxins are trapped in the emissions system. The direct venting is OK, but not environmentally sound (BHR will like that) and might help emissions tests?? It will not harm the engine or how it runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 It looks like a custom molded hose, it probably could be replaced with rubber hose, but rubber does not mix well with oil, so I havn't tried that yet. I was also considering trying one of those inline PVC oil separators so that would require a different hose too. I would be interested to see how much oil passes through the PVC and back into the supercharger. It smokes a lot. I realized it when doing seafoam. I cant imagine how much under load. The smoke may partially because of Mobil1. Really, smoking because of mobil1? doubtful, best oil I'v ever used, after completed RP tests in the Jeep I regained about .3 MPG switching back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 I could ask for detailed instructions on removing the egr, but then people will say I'm a noob, yet then bitch when I take it to a mechanic because they won't give the info and I will NOT just be tinkering around on a millenia, atleast mine. I know mine is clean, but HOW clean is the question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 The EGR tube nut on yours is likely seized up... from heat mostly. And is difficult to get at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Mine is good. LOL DANG #3 coil.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 P0300 right now.... but I know plugs are due... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 What plugs you thinking about using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 NGK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 plats, Iridiums, or ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 No, I can get the tube off with ease, What I would like to do is remove the entire EGR for inspection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Platinum G power.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 might as well check your rear coils and plugs while you are there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 damn it, I just want to remove the entire egr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 that can be done....but removing the EGR does make the coils and plugs more accessable...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 there is an EGR delete plate somewhere.... I have heard it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MURRAYBRYSON786 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 EGR REMOVAL this is how i did it to clean it. just in case you don't have any and i am curious but the metal gasket on mine had had its day so i had to use the past gasket stuff to seal it back on just curious if that is normal there are 2 bolts on the EGR alo there is a Pipe that come in to the bottom of the EGD you have to loosen the nut at the bottom of the EGR to remove the pipe and then there ate 2 hoses that come in to the sides (opposite of each other) of the EGR you will have to disconnect them. one is hard to get at so you will have to remove the sensor bracket and unplug all the sensors and move the wire harness out of your way too. once that metal bracket and the wires are out of your way you should have a strait shot at the last hose. then once you have all the bolts off the pipe's nut should slide all the way to the bend and the hoses are diconected you can pull it right out. as you pull it out you may need to pull the Pipe out of the bottom of it. then to replace it i would begin with the pipe and nuts and end with the hoses and then replace the wire harnes and metal bracket. hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MURRAYBRYSON786 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 I dont think there is B or F in the code. B as the first letter stands for "body". It is typically a short or open. so what dose that mean? i will go get the codes checked again but i am positive that those are the numbers & letters that the hand held reader gave me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Platinum G power.... I would use OEM plugs which I believe are Double Platinums. The Milly's coils are pretty sensitive to different resistances, which is exactly why you should never use Iridiums on the S. The EGR is needed for it to run right, those EGR block plates are crap. Combustion temp would increase way to much, but the main purpose of the EGR is to reduce NOx emmisions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 G-Power Platinum Part No. ZFR5FGP Stock No. 7098 Plug Gap 0.032 Laser Platinum/Iridium Part No. PZFR5F Stock No. 3741 Plug Gap 0.032 Number from NGK directly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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