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Mazda Smart Idle Stop System


enginph
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argh, its better then a hybrid, but seriously, how much fucking gas do you waste at idle.

 

Well actually according to modern marvels its 1/8th of a gallon PER HOUR

 

Another overengineering from mazda. And look at how it works, first they will align all pistons at the same level, then there will be a reverse expansion to move other cylinder to top. Then there will be a forward expansion to start. Cannot be more complicated. Put a fucking bigger starter.

 

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or we could just admit that global warming in a political game for liberal funding

 

hybrids are garbage not because of there principle and there purpose, and there power, and there comfort, and there feasiblily...well ok there is a long ass list of why there shit. But hybrids suffer extreme wear and tear on engine parts with the constant starting and restarting

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I am sceptical of the constant restarting thing as well. When an engine is shut down it heats up more than when idling, and then has to go through the warm up stages again on top of that.

 

The only time I approve of the technology is if the car has been idling for, say, 4 minutes with no activity. But not if it's been idling for 1 second.

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I am sceptical of the constant restarting thing as well. When an engine is shut down it heats up more than when idling, and then has to go through the warm up stages again on top of that. The only exception is if the car has been idling for, say, 4 minutes with no activity. But not if it's been idling for 1 second.

 

Why does it heat up more when stopped. Drive that engine in stop-go traffic for a month and some thing will broke.

 

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If there is no combustion in the engine the engine cannot heat up any further. If the crankshaft is not spinning there is less wear on the engine as long as everything stays lubricated which it should in simple stop and go traffic.

 

Make sense to me. There will be no AC when engine is off. Since the engine will turn reverse for half a cycle it may cause problems. At least its not good for the alternator.

 

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BHR is correct, granted the engine has been under some load prior to shutdown. Then the heads and upper block has abit higher temperature than the coolant. This is why it is wise to allow an engine to ide a couple of minutes before shutdown after hard driving. That being said, I can't say I see this as a problem for idle stop systems, as the conditions when the system is likely to engage frequently is during slow city driving.

I would want a disable button though, for serpentine road driving.

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The block will not hold heat even without the coolant circulating heat transfer goes from hot to cold this would still cause the block to cool down a bit and the coolant to heat up a bit from its previous running conditions. Either the AC compressor turns off and stops the cooling OR the car doesnt turn off when the AC is on.

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Here is how I learned what I know...

 

I was normally very cautious with my Eunie 500 in terms of avoiding using the a/c too much on hot days etc.

 

Then one day, I had a car load of people, it was a very hot day, the a/c was demanded on full blast for their sake, and I was driving up steep mountains.

 

Upon reaching the destination, all seemed well until I returned to the car, and found a large puddle of coolant underneath it. I assumed the worst, but an RACV technician informed me that I'd simply had a bit too much coolant in the system the whole time, and due to the extreme conditions of the journey, the excess coolant had been dumped at the hottest part of the journey, which he said is just after the engine is turned off. Not during driving. Made perfect sense and the car drove home fine and never dumped any more coolant.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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