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Removal Of Cac Assembly


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There really isn't anything about it I would say is extremely hard to do, everything is very accessible, but there is a lot to remove and it can be time consuming. I also highly recommend you get a magnetic tray and maybe a couple of jars to hold bolts while you work because there are so many out it would be very hard not to lose any.

 

(10mm) disconnect and remove the battery

 

(10mm) remove plastic "miller cycle" cover and intercooler duct

 

(colored electrical tape)go towards the back of the engine above where the plastic cover was and mark all your wire connectors on each end and disconnect them

 

(10mm) remove the battery tray

 

(12/14mm, Large Pliers on >1996, Flat Screw Driver) remove the front and rear intercoolers (make sure to pull the two plastic harnesses off the back of the rear one - where the flat screw driver might help)

 

(colored electrical tape) Label the ends of the vac lines and their corresponding places on the ABV actuator.

 

(12mm) remove all the nuts/bolts attaching the CAC assembly to the engine

You do not want to remove it in pieces, It will come off as an entire unit, with the abv actuator attatched so not every nut and bolt will be removed

 

(10 or 12mm) unbolt and move rear solenoid bracket assembly out of the way

 

(colored electrical tape) label and disconnect vacuum lines on abv actuator

 

(pliers) remove larger diameter hose off abv that goes to a metal piping and the same on the other of the engine going from the vacuum pump to the metal pipe.

 

(2x10mm open end wrench or 2 pairs of pliers) Unhook and move the accelerator cable out of the way

 

Move any other obvious connectors or vacuum lines out of the path of removing the CAC assembly

 

(hardest part) lift the CAC piping and ABV actuator straight up and out as a single unit

This may take some time, make sure as you are going you notice and fix move anything that may be getting in the way. I lifted parts up and stuck a screw driver to hold it, and worked my way around until it all came free.

 

take plastic walmart bags, cut them in half and stick in the exposed holes to keep anything from getting in the engine (be very careful - there are metal gaskets between the CAC assembly and engine)

 

now every vacuum hose should be accessible

 

Picture by Stevester1:

 

This is what it should look like once the CAC assembly is off

 

IPB Image

 

 

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I find this to be an excellent guide.

 

So with all this off, you have access to every single vaccum line that would need to be changed?

 

I'm beginning to plan in 2010 or 2011 to replace all vacuum hoses with silicone due to age, possibly even VCG's

 

what about gaskets? say around S/C etc. did you purchase a new set (where?) or just reuse

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There are more lines, the gaskets are metal and can be re-used unless cracked ( I used Permatex Aviation Gasket to better the chances of re-sealing). Be prudent of silicone lines, as they tend to be too soft for the vacuum and heat, and end of sucking flat and causing MANY CEL's. And maybe limp mode if you lose function of the ABV due to vacuum loss, not the CEL.

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I used thick walled hoses. Some clips are broken and the thick silicone hoses are hard to fit to the holding clips. As a result I just realized yesterday that the main vac line touched to the s/c pulley and worn a bit. More of a scratch. I need to find that broken gray clip somehow.

 

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Yes, that gives you access to all the lines. I used the Magnum vacuum hose from boostcontroller.com, they are extremely thick walled and I have had no problems with leaks or collapsing. The only thing is that they are so thick the little metal clamps and all the plastic holders do not fit, but I just used tie wraps where I wanted to bundle lines together or keep them out of the way. They form a really good seal and I have had zero leaks. I really wanted to get special order green vacuum hose from Samco to match the Miller Cycle green, but it was going to take an extra few weeks to come in, so I just did black.

 

VCG's are on my list, I just need to find the time to do it. When I do I plan on making a guide for that too.

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VCG's are on my list, I just need to find the time to do it. When I do I plan on making a guide for that too.

 

Are they require a timing belt removal or just continue from spark plug replacement? How many miles did you have again?

 

Closing in on 110k. I'm just going to do the VCG's so it will the same steps as the vacuum lines but with the addition of removing the ignition coils, intake manifold, and other things. I'm not sure exactly what else will have to move but I will see when I get there I guess. If you replace the cam seals at the same time you have to take off the timing belt. I would do it all at once but I have no money to buy all the stuff for the timing belt/water pump job right now, too many other things that I had to spend money on recently.

 

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VCG's are the things that tend to leak.

 

Hmm, green vacuum lines to match the MCE. I had not thought about that before, but I like the idea.

 

How much did all the lines run you?

 

I wish I could spend an entire day to take everything apart with someone who has already done it before. Change out all vacuum lines to silicone or thick walled, do the VCG's, inspect S/C maybe even just change belts for the hell of it.

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VCG's are the things that tend to leak.

 

Hmm, green vacuum lines to match the MCE. I had not thought about that before, but I like the idea.

 

How much did all the lines run you?

 

I wish I could spend an entire day to take everything apart with someone who has already done it before. Change out all vacuum lines to silicone or thick walled, do the VCG's, inspect S/C maybe even just change belts for the hell of it.

 

The parts themselves are very cheap, it just gets expensive once you pay a mechanic or someone to change them all for you.

 

The hose is $1.25 a foot regularly for the silicone Magnum hose and it is on sale now for $1.07, plus shipping. I used just under 21 feet and that is with the metal tubing that the 95 has. If I were going to do it again I would just go ahead and buy around 30 feet to have plenty of extra, especially with a newer year that does not have the metal tubing.

 

The brass T's can be gotten from McMaster.com and are something like $1.50 each plus shipping. I can get the part number for those too if you want.

 

The green Samco hose can also be bought at boostcontroller.com through a special order and I remember it only came in 10 foot sections and was going to cost me around $40 for 30 feet if I remember right.

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I don't plan on doing it right now, but it I'm starting to plan.

 

My issue is I would rather do it with someone thats done it before instead of spending 3x as much time and worrying

 

Do you think there would be any long term problems with using silicone? I want it so it lasts forever, but don't want to worry about anything collapsing or having other unforseen issues.

 

I know my vacuum lines are in perfect shape, but I'm starting to worry about VCG, would like to do it all at once and not have to worry about lines for next you know...50 years?

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With the CAC off you can access all but one vacuum hose. To get that last one you have to remove the front intake manifold...not worth it. And as MTS said, make sure you get thick walled hoses if you're using silicone otherwise they can/will collapse when anything above 10 inches of mercury is applied.

 

And why would YOU do this yourself BHR, historically speaking, you like giving the dealership your money?

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Matt

 

What size hose did you get. I was looking around and everyone claims there hose is thick walled and every one isn't. Are yours reinforced thickwalled? the site you posted is bragging about being 2.5mm thick instead of 2mm. doesn't seem like alot

 

Alos, how many brass t's and what size?

 

This might actually end up being a fall project for me.

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Matt

 

What size hose did you get. I was looking around and everyone claims there hose is thick walled and every one isn't. Are yours reinforced thickwalled? the site you posted is bragging about being 2.5mm thick instead of 2mm. doesn't seem like alot

 

Alos, how many brass t's and what size?

 

This might actually end up being a fall project for me.

 

4mm hose with 3.2mm thick walls

http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?i...6category%3D212

I can't speak for other brands or types, but this one has given me zero problems and is very high quality.

 

T's can be bought from http://www.mcmaster.com, search for part number 44555K137

 

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hmm. I'm thinking I might just go ahead and order it now

 

With the millenia, and een some Jeep products I have had issues with excellent products being discontined or the site listed ina thread taken down.

 

Are there any risks to using silicone over rubber? clearly it lasts longer, but I want to make sure its really worth it and that it won't melt collapse.

 

I would go with green

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hmm. I'm thinking I might just go ahead and order it now

 

With the millenia, and een some Jeep products I have had issues with excellent products being discontined or the site listed ina thread taken down.

 

Are there any risks to using silicone over rubber? clearly it lasts longer, but I want to make sure its really worth it and that it won't melt collapse.

 

I would go with green

 

The only thing is that they might not fit in the little plastic 'organizers' that the stock hoses go through. There are actually a lot of them, but you will just need to come up with a way to keep them neat. Also the little hose clamps that are on some of the stock hoses might not fit, but I have had zero sealing problems without them. If you were really concerned you could find some mini hose clamps that could fit. I don't know if you will have these problems with the green because that is a Samco Race product that is distributed by the site. You could always ask them how thick the sidewalls are on those and it should give you an idea. I ran into these things with the Magnum hose which only comes in black, blue, and red.

 

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I used the same parts as Matt. They seal very well and checking the MAP connection it didnt move at all. I think MAP hose is the highest pressure part. Actually it is hard to take off once they are in Tees. Except some hard hoses I didnt have any bad rubber hose at 120k miles.

 

IPB Image

 

I think I used 6 tees and 21ft of hose.

 

 

With the CAC off you can access all but one vacuum hose. To get that last one you have to remove the front intake manifold...not worth it.

 

Is that the one to the s/c front (or rear bearing house? I beat the bullet and tried it. Takes sometime but since I have no other option but putting that sucker on, it gets in after some struggle :) Actually that one started tearing off from s/c side.

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Matt,

 

by organizers you mean the little clips that hold the t's and everything in place right? zipties work fine for something like that, infact I perfer them since you can just cut offand replace as needed.

 

I would want clamps on all of them

 

Are the samco any thicker or better? I find a site that sells silcone vacuum hose in green, but I cannot stress enough that I only want improvements to life span with ZERO problems or worries of problems.

 

also 4mm seems pretty damn small.

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I would email and ask about the thickness of the sidewalls on the Samco hoses. They seemed like a good company when I was looking into them, but they only sell to distributors and not to individuals. I used tie wraps also and so far so good. You could actually use small tie wraps for clamps if you wanted to, I am sure it would be the cheapest option and would do the job well. If you do go buy clamps make sure they are spring clamps because it will be a pain to get worm drive clamps and tighten them all down. I think that 95-96 uses 5 T's and 97-02 uses 6. The metal tubing in the early years accounts for one of the T's.

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I have a bag of zipties I'v used under the hood with no issues what so ever.

 

I would perfer just a good reinforced hose over a super thick one.

 

And seriously wtf. I forgot how much strain there is on your back and calfs working on a millenia, or anything low to begin with. On a lifted Jeep its all pretty much shoulder height to start with

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I have a bag of zipties I'v used under the hood with no issues what so ever.

 

I would perfer just a good reinforced hose over a super thick one.

 

And seriously wtf. I forgot how much strain there is on your back and calfs working on a millenia, or anything low to begin with. On a lifted Jeep its all pretty much shoulder height to start with

 

I did a quick search and couldn't find a reinforced vacuum hose. Most of the reinforced hoses are large diameter and usually in high pressure applications. The hoses that I used are hard to crimp and can handle the vacuum no problem. I did find a couple of people who use zip ties as hose clamps though.

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I'm only looking to on the vacuum lines hte originals don't fit on

 

if your ever in va your more then welcome to help do mine. Food and obama free money - not to mention I would even start up the millenia

 

No plans for a trip to va as of right now, but who knows.

 

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