Task514 Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 Another problem!..... My belt tensioner just seized and it ripped the drive belt. I need a new tensioner and drive belt! While looking for the tensioner (for crank/alt/AC side) the prices seem crazy high! at least +300$ for a simple tensioner! the cheapest I found was from Tascaparts at 282$ Anyone know where else I can find this? MAZDA PART # KJ02-15-980B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted August 9, 2011 Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 really? that much? also quite surprised it locked up. Did a quick search and no local parts stores have it in stock. Only thing I can recommend is maybe a junkyard. a pick-a-part would be super cheap but labor might be an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Task514 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2011 i'm also surprised it seized... It was making some grinding noise then started spitting small metal debris.. and now it's seized. It sucks we don't have a junkyard where you can just go and pick-a-part here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 Not sure if its here, lots of different timing belt tensioners, priced around 80 bucks https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.a...0+50042+2042025 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Task514 Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 BHR its not the timing belt tensioner I need... it's the accessory belt tensioner. The one that drives onto the crank pulley, alternator, vaccum pump... This is the one that is expensive! Even ebay has them used for $150.... arrrggg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted August 10, 2011 Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 No reason to be that much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Task514 Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 The reason is because it is a Millenia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 if it is the pulley that seized you do not need an entire new tensioner. i believe The Fat Man pointed me towards NAPA, you can knock out the bearing for the pulley and replace it. let me look thru my PMs and find it so question, was it the PULLEY that stopped spinning or did the spring inside the tensioner bust and it no longer tensions the belt?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 if it is the PULLEY bearing the part for napa is #6203-2RSJ if it is the internal spring that busted and seized where the tensioner won't even move up or down then i canthelp you ther Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Task514 Posted August 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 if it is the PULLEY bearing the part for napa is #6203-2RSJ if it is the internal spring that busted and seized where the tensioner won't even move up or down then i canthelp you ther Nice! that's some hope! Yes it is the pulley that stopped spinning and seized! Did you do this yourself previously? how hard was it to bust the bearing out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngelOfDeath Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 The reason is because it is a Millenia This is the same problem I had alot of times, only thing is ebay will be your friend or junk yards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 if it is the PULLEY bearing the part for napa is #6203-2RSJ if it is the internal spring that busted and seized where the tensioner won't even move up or down then i canthelp you ther Nice! that's some hope! Yes it is the pulley that stopped spinning and seized! Did you do this yourself previously? how hard was it to bust the bearing out? what you do, my child, is loosen the bolt till the pulley comes off. It is easier to do this while it's on the car instead of removing the bastard tensioner. Make SURE though before you go to the trouble, that its not the tensioner SPRING that is gone and that the auto tensioner moves freely. the bearing on the other side can be knocked out http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php...mp;hl=tensioner see the pics i posted, the pulley flipped on its rear side? You have to knock it out from the other side with something that puts force uniformly on the bearing to make it come out. Knocking it in is as simple as placing it centered on the pulley, place a block of wood on top of it and knock it gently into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Thats why i changed the $8 bearing while changing the t-belt. It does go bad and it can trash the whole tensioner. I hope you only need a bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 as it happens, saint, i think you were the one who told me what the bearing part number was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 At what mileage are people replacing this bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 as it happens, saint, i think you were the one who told me what the bearing part number was At what mileage are people replacing this bearing? Mine at 135k miles, together with t-belt. That way less labor is involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hmmm...that will have to go on my list.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Task514 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 So I bought the bearings and did the swap! The bearing was $6.99CAD at my local NAPA. FYI, the bearing is actually a 6203-2RSK (although on the box it says 6203-2RSJ)!! btw my car is at about 167 XXX km Pictures to come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Task514 Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 This is the required bearing to fix the front tensioner (alt, a/c, vac, crank) (notice the bearing is a 6203-2RSK!!) It's very tight in there! Use an open end wrench, else you'll have trouble taking it off. Here's the damaged bearing. Problem was the bolt holding it came off loose and the washer behind it started to scrape the bearing seal, then killed the bearing!! So remember to tighten this bolt carefully! All this was done from the top of the engine! Even for installing the belt! Nothing else was removed! All this saved me from buying the complete tensioner for +$350!! Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Oh wow. Glad that it worked!! And btw I noticed that you didnt change the other tensioner`s bearing? Gonna wait for it to crash as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 MW.net - now worth 344.01 more to task. Given how cheap, and how easy this is...I'm tempted to buy 3 of these and keep just in case. Even though my current millenia will never go past 75k, sil 02 s probably not past 100k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 MW.net - now worth 344.01 more to task. Given how cheap, and how easy this is...I'm tempted to buy 3 of these and keep just in case. Even though my current millenia will never go past 75k, sil 02 s probably not past 100k Not easy, you may need a press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Task514 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 MW.net - now worth 344.01 more to task. Given how cheap, and how easy this is...I'm tempted to buy 3 of these and keep just in case. Even though my current millenia will never go past 75k, sil 02 s probably not past 100k Not easy, you may need a press. I didn't need a press... just tap in the bearing squarely with a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 I would probably use the Jeep trail seal guide. Find a socket about same size and stand on it - then lightly hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted September 9, 2011 Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 now that I remember it yes that's what I did, put a socket on it, then hammered it thru and wtf you did it from the top???? my dad and I had to do it from the bottom and it was a PITA!! oh it always bring joy to my heart to screw the dealer out of expensive parts and fix it the cheap way and in doing so keep another millenia on the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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