Troutman Posted April 23, 2006 Report Share Posted April 23, 2006 We are talking about the little port in the engine bay near the firewall on the LHD model's 'drivers' side. I am told it is known as NGS. I have also heard it is possible to pull codes using an LED light - in my case I'm hoping to use a multimeter. Is there a known procedure for this? Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted April 23, 2006 Report Share Posted April 23, 2006 There is a know procedure for this, though I can't remember the exact details of it. I do know that you need to jump the TEN and GND terminals in the Diagnostic box, and use either an LED or analogue multimeter to pull the codes...yes, the multimeter can not be digital, it must be analogue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted April 23, 2006 Report Share Posted April 23, 2006 Good to see ren around. I have heard of this, I believe someone said there is a certain way the light will flash, write that down and it translate to the code, which can be looked up on THIS site in the master codes section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troutman Posted April 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 Cheers Ren, I notice there are NGS testers on Ebay but nothing less than US$1000! If it really can be done with a simple LED I'll be quite pleased... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troutman Posted May 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 I don't suppose anyone has any more info on this? I did a full 'net search and found nothing of value... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 On the same 'row' as the TEN pin, connect the voltmetre to the very first pin (farthest left) and the battery. I can't remember whether you touch the neg or pos side of the battery, try neg first. Then watch the sweeps of the needle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troutman Posted May 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Cheers Ren, will give it a go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Help happens nicely over here, thanks Ren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 What do a King and a ninja have in common? They only show up when necessary. If you need pics of what to connect exactly, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troutman Posted May 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 I have purchased an analogue multimeter and it shouldn't take long to arrive. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troutman Posted May 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 Ren, the analogue multimeter has arrived, so just to clarify we are saying is: * Put it in 50V DC mode (this one only has 10V and 50V so I chose the latter for safety) * Multimeter pos terminal to far-left pin, and neg terminal to the neg of battery - or doesn't it matter which way? * Ignition to 'On' And it should do a little dance? Many thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troutman Posted May 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2006 Originally posted by Mr. MX6 on MX6.com: How to check for error codes on the G2 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Locate and open the "Diagnostic" box under the hood. It's between the battery and the fender. Below is shown a representation of the pins inside the Diagnostic box: The pins labelled "TEN" (which stands for "Test ENgine" by the way) and GND (ground) are the pins of interest. Make sure the ignition is OFF and use a paperclip to jumper the TEN and GND pins together. Note: E and J spec cars dont have a CE light .. conect a LED+Resistor or 12V-LED to the B+ terminal, and the free resistor - end to the FEN terminal. this will flash in place of the cel.. Turn on the ignition (do not start the car) and watch the CEL. After about 4-seconds, it will begin to flash any codes that may be stored. If there are no codes stored, the CEL will not flash (it will go out.) Malfunction codes are generally 2-digit affairs although Mazda decided to get tricky. They include 2-digit codes that involve '0' (zero) as a digit. Code 02 is one example. Code 10 is another. The codes are broken into a 10s digit and a 1s digit. The 10s digit is flashed first, followed by the 1s digit. The digits are distinguished by the length of time they flash the CEL. 10s digits flash the CEL on for 1.2-sec while 1s digits flash the CEL for 0.4-sec. Digits that are '0' (zero) flash the CEL exactly zero times. Note how the presumably single-digit code '3' flashes the CEL for short-pulses only. This indicates the 10s digit is zero for this code. The image below illustrates what the CEL would do if, say, a code 24 were the only code present. Note that it's "dark" (off) for 4-seconds, then the code flashes (long flashes are 10s digits, short flashes are 1s digits). Since this is the only code, there is a 4-second pause between flashing sequences. If you find yourself saying "Uh-oh"... Notice in the above drawing that the TEN pin is located right next to the B+ pin... If you screw up and connect the B+ pin to the GND pin, you'll cause a short circuit when the ignition is switched on. You'll probably notice that the instrument cluster gauges don't work any more, along with other systems of the car. If you've done this, check the METER fuse in the fuse panel inside the car. Once you've replaced it, your gauges should operate as normal. Interpreting the Codes: There are quite a few codes. The following table shows the codes for the 1994 Probe GT (and a couple for the 1993) and what they mean. For FS (4-cyl) MECS-equipped engine codes, go here: Code Circuit Diagnosed Memorized? 02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor Yes 03 'G' camshaft position sensor Yes 04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor yes 05 Knock sensor Yes 08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF) Yes 09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS) Yes 10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT) Yes 12 Throttle position sensor (TPS) Yes 14 Barometric pressure sensor Yes 15 LHO2S inactivation error Yes 16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Yes 17 LHO2S inversion error Yes 23 RHO2S inactivation error Yes 24 RHO2S inversion error Yes 25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid Yes 26 Canister purge solenoid No 28 EGR vacuum solenoid No 29 EGR vent solenoid No 34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid No 41 VRIS #1 solenoid No 46 VRIS #2 solenoid No 67 LFAN relay (1993 only) No 69 ECTF sensor (1993 only) Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troutman Posted May 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2006 OK I successfully pulled these codes off my sick Eunie with this method: 33, 12, 15. But now what? I presume it would be a bit different compared to a Probe, and there isn't even a 33 listed above... :'( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troutman Posted May 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2006 This is more hopeful, but still no idea on the 33. http://www.troublecodes.net/mazda/ Hmmm anyone changed a TPS before? Or an LHS Oxy sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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