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Kl 2,5 V6 Valvecover Gasket Replacement Guide


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I know there is already a guide, but the pics are missing, so I made this guide. It is based on recommendations from others as well as the way the factory did it in the first place. Regarding use of silicone sealant; I put it where I found it necessary, based on knowledge about weak points and what we call “common farmer sense” here. I guess others might see it differently.

 

Needed tools: ¼” and 3/8” sockets, gasket surface scraper, Loctite cleaning spray or similar, low-range torque wrench.

 

Needed parts, NB these are Xedos part numbers:

 

Front gasket KL01-10-2D5B

Rear gasket KL01-10-235B

Sealant washer FS01-10-237A, to every bolt, 22 in all. They were $12 each here, so I bought for the rear cover only. Yes I know, insane prices.

 

This is how my engine looked, the leak on the driver side end was slightly beyond minor, not enough to cause gunk reaching the engineblock, but about half way down the head. Bear in mind the engine has never been washed, to my knowledge. This area is hard to reach with cleaning anyway. All my plugholes were bone dry.

 

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* For access to the rear cover, look up another guide.

 

* Clean the valvecover outside, with special attention to gasket area all way around.

 

* Dismantle valvecover gasket, starting with the two bolts holding the timing cover and then the 11 bolts holding the valvecover. Release all bolts half a turn before removing all bolts.

 

* Remove the cover, and try to prevent foreign objects entering the internals. Pry off the old sealant washers with a screwdriver.

 

* Use a gasket scraper (NOT a screwdriver) and scrape the gasket surface on the head, including areas around plugholes. Remove traces of old silicone sealant in the area towards the timingbelt cover, take actions not to drop any objects into the engine. Clean the scraper several times to avoid this!

 

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* Inspect gasket surfaces on the valvecover, my cover did not need mechanical cleaning to mention. I just used the tip of a screwdriver with a rug around to wipe the grooves. Bear in mind factory did not apply sealant to the cover at all.

 

* Clean off all gasket surfaces with a dry rug, and apply cleaning spray to all gasket surfaces. Wipe off the spray, and then apply another layer of spray which is left to evaporate.

 

* Apply silicone sealant to the following areas on the valvecover; groove around each plughole, corners towards timingbelt cover and the two other places where it is not flat. I did this due to judging these as weak points.

 

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* Fit the gasket into the groove in the valvecover, and press it into the groove by hand all around the cover as well as around the plugholes. Wipe off excessive sealant if needed, the tip of my sealant can was abit too thick which meant I had to apply slightly more than the 1- 2 mm’s needed.

 

* Apply silicone sealant to the following areas on the head; around each plughole, corners towards timingbelt cover and cam halfsircles, see pics. Again, judged as weak points and where factory put it.

 

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* Place the cover precisely onto the head to avoid sealant being pushed aside, and start tightening the bolts with new grommets. The sequence is: start on the top row, towards the V and the timingbelt cover, follow the top row from left to right, then continue to the centre row from right to left, and finally the lower row (outward row) from left to right, like an S only written backwards. Do this in 3 or 4 sequences, to assure nothing is forced into position. The front cover sequence is the same, only the sequence will form a mirrored S.

 

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* Use the torquewrench for the final tightening, I did even this in three steps, with 5, 7 and finally 9 Nm, within the 6,8 to 9,8 specified torque.

 

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* Refit the two bolts through the timingbelt cover.

 

* Stand back and admire your work, you’re done! Avoid starting the engine at least an hour after the job is done, to allow the sealant to harden.

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