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Renboy
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big brake kit  

12 members have voted

  1. 1. I'm interested if:

    • Fuck the price...I want one.
      3
    • The price is less than $1200
      0
    • The price is less than $1000
      3
    • The price is less than $800
      1
    • The price is less than $600
      2
    • My brakes are good enough (yeah I'm cheap)
      3


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I'm currently working on an inexpensive alternative for the mx6's and thought I might make one for the milly.

Before you vote, the kit I would design would use parts from other cars, this is for three reasons:

1) it's easier for me to get the parts test them, and exchange for others if they don't work

2) they're readily available for others to purchase once brakes have worn and need changing (unlike wilwood or other companies)

3) and they're cheaper than non stock parts. To give you an idea, the front and rear rotors that I'm going to be using on my car came to $35 each. And they're huge compared to what's there now. The pads (ceramics) came to $120 total front and back

 

This kit will require no modification, I don't want to make anything that can't be undone.

You will need 17" wheels or bigger. I'm aiming to fill the stock 17's completely.

The kit will include relocation brackets, all hardware, and a list of parts for you to buy separately (rotors, pads, calipers). There's no point in me buying rotors, then you paying for me to ship them to you. I don't know if you want slotted/drilled/blanks, the quality of pads, or if you plan on painting/pc'ing the calipers. But the prices above will include all these parts, that means the entire upgrade will cost only a little more than a quality stock brake job. Chances are the entire upgrade will come out to somewhere between $600-$800. Unless it gets too big and a new master cylinder will need to be used (will try to avoid that).

The rear rotors will probably remain stock and only new calipers will be mated to them. The fact that the hub of the rear rotor is a drum will make it next to impossible to find a suitable replacement, without having to take rotors to a machine shop before they're mounted. I don't like that idea.

If there's enough interest, I'll need a milly for a day or two to get dimensions and test fit *cough, mts you travel alot, cough*

Also, if there's enough interest, I will ask for a deposit before I start anything. The deposit will only be refundable if I can't make the kit.

 

The dimensions I'm looking to achieve are:

FRONT: 13" rotor minimum, and 4 piston calipers minimum, idealy 6 pistons (limited by master cylinder)

REAR: stock rotors, and two piston calipers minimum, again idealy 4 but limited

 

Questoins/concerns post here so I don't have to repeat myself.

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The dimensions I'm looking to achieve are:

FRONT: 13" rotor minimum, and 4 piston calipers minimum, idealy 6 pistons (limited by master cylinder)

REAR: stock rotors, and two piston calipers minimum, again idealy 4 but limited

 

Questoins/concerns post here so I don't have to repeat myself.

 

Do you know the stock specs?

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:hmm:

 

very intriguing ren, and I'm interested, sadly the final price will have a large part in this at this point.

 

My questions would be what exactly are you selling, would it just be relocation brackets AND calipers?

 

and this list, I assume you would tell use where to buy the rotors and pads? I find it hard to believe there is anything that would fit, but will yield to your judgement in this.

 

Will there be bigger brake lines, SS I hope? the master cylinder does concern me, but I would like a 6 piston caliper, with a 13" rotor, exactly what I was hoping for. Now for the rear, you say stock rotors, but there so tiny...is there anyway to get say a 12" rotor, maybe stock off another car with the same interior hub design? and if so, what size or type of caliper would be in the back I was hoping for a nice 2-4 piston.

 

Above all eles, if I do this, I would want nice performance looking, closed face calipers.

 

Now this may be a stupid question, so don't blast me for asking but I'm not sure. IF you make a new bracket for the caliper, does the caliepr have to remain in the same spot in relation to the rotor? what I mean is, right now the caliper sits closest to the front of the car near vertical, would it be possible to relocate the caliper to be closet to the drivers, like many performance based OEM brake systems??

 

And last but not least, if the master cylinder does become a problem, is there anyway to upgrade it and not run into any problems?

 

If there is a set final price I will probably still do this, but go in steps since I'm very very short on funds, but I have no problem giving ren a deposit.

 

also, I move to pin this topic for the time being.

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I have the specs for the stock rotors yes.

 

In my recent ventures I managed to secure 'The Brake Book'. It has a listing of nearly all rotors produced for all cars, it shows the rotor width, the hub bore, overall thickness, overall diameter, bolt pattern, mounting style...everything needed. It also includes all master cylinders, the bore, number of outlets (for brake lines) and the inlet size.

 

I will sell the brackets and hardware only, then give a list of rotors, pads, and calipers to purchase. Like I said earlier, there's really no point in me buying everything and then shipping everything, that would just make the shipping costs skyrocket. 4 rotors at 15 lbs each, + 4 calipers, + 2 sets of brake pads + the brackets would be nearly 80lbs to ship. 4 brackets and a couple of screws might be 10lbs. I assure you, everything would be readily available at any auto parts store, or online, wherever you normally buy brake parts. Furthermore, quality of parts and preference change the costs a lot too. With big ass rotors, you don't need brembo, any buttfuck cheap company will do since there will be a lot more meat to distribute the heat. Not to mention, some people would rather metallic brakes because of stopping power, and deal with the dust and noise. I hate metallic brakes and only ever go with ceramics. If you want brembo rotors, and porterfield pads, your price will be closer to $1000 than if you go with cheap rotors and cheap pads. At that point you're looking at maybe $600.

 

For the fronts my aim is 4/6 piston closed face with at least a 13" rotor. For the rear, either a 2 piston open faced, or 4 piston closed, it depends on what's available, and what's useable.

 

The calipers will have to stay on the same side that they are currently on, further out, but on the same side. It just wouldn't be possible to do for a reasonable price. And as for brake lines, the only ones I know of that are made for the milly are goodrich lines, but those are shit and tend to break. Some from other cars may fit, but I haven't looked into that, I may later on, but at this point I don't have the time.

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:hmm: interesting I say.

 

So there will be a list of calipers, rotors, and pads for those calipers? I assume there will be several different brands and exact part numbers? I only ask because when upgrading my Jeep calipers to just 04 grand calipars it was a nightmare, and many places wanted a core back instead of just selling me the damn caliper.

 

I already have SS brake lines from corksport (not sure of exact brand) I just want to make sure I won't need larger brake lines.

 

And on price, when you say 1000, I'm assuming that is for rotors,pads, calipers, and then brackets from you? Or would it be 1000 for above parts + whatever you charge for brackets

 

Personally I'm on the same page as you, 13" front 6 piston closed, brembo x-drilled rotors, in the rear I would like 12" 4 piston closed if possible, or atleast 4 piston closed.

 

About how much would a new cylinder run and/or how complicated is the install?

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Figure an extra $100 for the master cylinder if needed, as for the install, not bad if you know what you're doing. If you don't know, you're car won't stop no matter how much you try and bleed it. Instructions will be posted if needed.

 

Calipers can be purchased, but if you don't return one, you have to pay the core charge. Or you can go to a scrapyard, pay half the price, and no core charge.

 

The $1000 (or whatever the final price) would include everything, it would be the final price you pay. If you get top of the line everything and it runs you $600 for parts then I'll ask for some amount for the brackets, the price will be directly proportional to how much of a pain in the ass it is to make the brackets.

 

Closed calipers may not be an option for the rears (not sure yet). The reason is that closed face calipers stick out further from the hub than open face ones since they have pistons on the outside too, and they may interfere with the wheel. The rear calipers will depend on how much room there is with the stock rotors, and if replacement rotors can be found. This shouldn't be a problem with the front because there's not ebrake limitation on the rotors.

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Ren,

 

I can get you pictures if you need them, but I would worry about the front much more then the back. On the front the stock 17" rims barely clear the caliper as is, I would estimate maybe 12mm of difference, in the rear however they are more recessed since there is the hub for the parking brake.

 

This could be solved by adding in wheel spacers with the kit, but I would perfer not to go that route on the millenia.

 

Let me know if you needs pics and or measurements

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Ren,

 

as it so happens I drove the millenia, here are some pics of the clearance, as you can see, on the front there is barely anything, about 4mm at the closest point

 

On the rear highway the calipers do not extend out any further then the hub and there is a good bit of room, over an inch.

 

Front wheel

[attachmentid=807][attachmentid=808]

 

rear wheel

[attachmentid=809][attachmentid=810][attachmentid=811]

wheel1.jpg

wheel2.jpg

rear1.jpg

rear2.jpg

rear3.jpg

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The clearance in the front isn't a problem, I wouldn't use rotors that sit that close to the wheel, they would be deeper and give more clearance. All I need is 25mm deeper rotors which I imagine exist. I will definitely not make a kit that needs spacers.

 

MTS, we're on the same page.

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Because I would have to make a bracket that would wrap around the steering knuckle, and it would have to not come in contact with anything else (speed sensor, strut, control arms, etc.). Not to mention it would be bolted to the front (the bracket) and the caliper mounted on the back, this leaves a lot of room for flexing. This would at best be expensive and unsafe.

 

MTS, it's going to be a few weeks before I need your car. I have to decide on rotors and calipers. I have the dimensions of the stock rotors, and I have a set of stock calipers here so between the two I have a good idea of what sizes I have to work with. Will let you know.

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IF you make a new bracket for the caliper, does the caliepr have to remain in the same spot in relation to the rotor? what I mean is, right now the caliper sits closest to the front of the car near vertical, would it be possible to relocate the caliper to be closet to the drivers, like many performance based OEM brake systems??

 

Interestingly RWD and AWD cars have front calipers close to the driver, while FWD cars have them close to the front. :noidea:

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I had never really noticed the colation between FWD/RWD/AWD and where the calipers were located, I can't see how it would make a difference, none the less, when it comes to braking, I'd rather stick with the tried and true.

 

I can't imagine brackets being that much, I do think they'll have to be machined somewhere with your designs, but if I can do this in section when I get the money, put me down for some brackets and let me know when you want a deposit.

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