Synesthesia Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 Originally posted by yel-low Disclaimer: What you read or observe here is by NO MEANS the ONLY or BEST way of accomplishing the underlying task. These are procedures that have worked for me and in no way do I take responsibility for any damage that may become of you or your personal property. This write-up is solely for reference of your own research and knowledge. Ok, these write-ups are really starting to back up on my computer so I am going to starting eating at them one by one. The first of my mini-series will be how to install Stainless Steel brake lines. I should have started out with how to install cross drilled/slotted rotors but I didn’t take enough pics to walk a newbie through it enough so I trashed it. Each weekend I will follow with a new write-up on some common and not so common fixes or maintenance issues pertaining ONLY to a 1995 or 1997 Mazda Millenia. Nothing I do will cover the S models since I do not own one or care to own one in the near future. You may find that the same procedures carry over to other years but I personally do not make any claims nor will I offer any support for any years other than those mentioned. I will begin with the most basic brake upgrade that anyone can do with some few hand tools and a simple floor jack. I suggest you get a brake bleeder kit that has an external reservoir that mounts on top of your brake cylinder which compensates for fluid losses prior to this install. After all lines are installed you will need to bleed the brakes starting with the passenger rear, driver’s rear, pass. front, driver’s front. I will not cover how to bleed brakes in this write-up but that info is pretty simple to find. The first step is to jack the car up, support it with some jack stands, and remove all the wheels. This first pic is what we will be installing. Goodridge Stainless Steel brake lines. We will start with the front first and with the wheel removed you will see this large clip on the OEM brake line. This is another closer pic. See that silver clip? That’s what you need to remove. Here is the clip removed. The clip is pretty easy to remove. A couple taps with a screwdriver and hammer is enough to dislodge it and a good grip with pliers is enough to pull it out. Here is it dislodged. (rear side but same idea) The next step is to remove the factory brake line bracket from the strut. As seen in this pic. For the new line you will have to play around with the tension on the line itself by turning the wheel full stop left and right. You will only reuse one of the 10mm bolts to mount the new bracket. This is a picture of the factory banjo bolt that bolts into the caliper. You need to remove the bolt and remove the crush washers that go on either side of the bolt. It is a good idea to replace both with new washers (your kit should include them) but if you’re in a pinch reusing them is ok as long as you keep an eye on them in the future. These are overview pictures of everything installed. Notice the liberal use of PB blaster. That stuff is amazing for rusted on nuts and bolts. The rear is almost verbatim of the front. Here is a pic of the rear OEM set-up. New Line installed on banjo bolt Rear C-clip pried out. Rear nut that needs to be removed. New line in place with spring clip back in position. Rear brake line overview. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikola1989 Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 Nice Guide, Thanks for the info! I'm thinking of doing this myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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