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Proper Way To Remove Stereo


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#1 Ghost T H

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 01:07 PM

when taking my system out, is there any precautions? obviously, unhook the battery, i have to take out a capacitor, amp and subs, and the ground wire thats under my rear seat, im not trying to get shocked and blown 20 feed across the driveway bicycle.gif
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#2 Arsonist

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 01:19 PM

Hm...I'm a noob when it comes to stereo installation, but I'd be careful with any capacitor since they hold in amps that can easily kill you.

#3 The Only MTS

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 01:50 PM

Yes do be cautious with the cap.... you will be eating the other side of your car if you ground that fucker...

Discharging the Capacitor:
If you plan to remove your capacitor for any reason, you may want to completely discharge the capacitor to avoid a potential hazard. To discharge the capacitor (only after it's disconnected from the system, of course), will need to enable the current to flow from one terminal to the other. You can use either a test light or resistor for this purpose. Some large capacitors tend to develop a charge similar to a battery and will produce a small voltage across its terminals. Since, in a large capacitor (over .5 farad), even a small voltage could be dangerous. After it is discharged, you may want to connect the terminals together with a piece of wire or resistor. Even if the capacitor design doesn't permit it to develop adverse voltages when unused, leave the terminals connected as a visual confirmation of the unit's safety.

Charging with a Resistor:
Many capacitors will need to be intialized with a 10 to 50 ohm resistor connected to the power main for usually 8 to 25 seconds depending on the size. After charging is completed, simply connect the power main VERY Carefully.
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#4 Ghost T H

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 02:39 PM

i actually just ripped it right out of there with no proble, took the negative then positive off and poof, mission accomplished
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#5 The Only MTS

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Posted 27 April 2006 - 02:42 PM

Careful as there is still a charge on it....
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QUOTE(Saint @ Oct 14 2008, 12:26 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Frankzao @ Oct 13 2008, 09:06 PM) View Post

BHR has not learned that driving a milly can also be fun........he still thinks it can't tow, remember?


Tow? He thinks it is made of sugar and melts in the rain :)


#6 Arsonist

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 03:42 PM

Just don't lick test them or grab them with your hands wet.

#7 The Only MTS

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 04:38 PM

bahahahaha
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QUOTE(Saint @ Oct 14 2008, 12:26 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Frankzao @ Oct 13 2008, 09:06 PM) View Post

BHR has not learned that driving a milly can also be fun........he still thinks it can't tow, remember?


Tow? He thinks it is made of sugar and melts in the rain :)


#8 Jdubs99

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 07:46 AM

QUOTE(The Only MTS @ May 4 2006, 04:38 PM) View Post

bahahahaha


Modern caps for car audio applications are a little different than the old ones. David Navone, the "Car Audio God", at a recent conference, put a capacitor in his pants and shorted it with his keys. Needless to say, nothing happened. As far as getting shocked, 12 volts doesn't hurt that much, it's more tingly than anything. It usually only happens to me when using a test probe instead of my multimeter.

I'd be more afraid of a bottle warmer relay going bad on a nitrous tank than a cap exploding. I remember seeing pictures a few years back of a black maxima getting destroyed along with the guy's garage.
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#9 The Only MTS

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 08:38 AM

Very good.
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QUOTE(Saint @ Oct 14 2008, 12:26 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Frankzao @ Oct 13 2008, 09:06 PM) View Post

BHR has not learned that driving a milly can also be fun........he still thinks it can't tow, remember?


Tow? He thinks it is made of sugar and melts in the rain :)


#10 Anubis

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Posted 17 November 2006 - 11:04 AM

nitrous is actually extremely dangerous. and the technology for it needs to be improved as it creates more harm than good.
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#11 Jdubs99

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Posted 17 November 2006 - 04:34 PM

Some amps don't needs caps anyway, any amp with a PWM power supply is going to regulate the power it uses to ensure consistent power delivery. JL audio and alpine for example. Any amp that uses an unregulated power supply, like Rockford Fosgate, has the potential to overperform if voltage and amperage are there. The 325.1 for example, can perform at over 400 watts with a higher amperage alternator and a low ESR cap.

As for nitrous, no thanks. All the hassle, danger, and extra wear and tear for an occasional burst of speed just doesn't add up.
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