mackin
Jul 21 2009, 05:47 PM
I'm just curious if you guys had any idea what could be wrong with my millenia S.
When i first start driving, it has it's normal spirited performance, and everything works fine, but after driving for 15 minutes or so, it wont go over 2500 RPMs no matter what gear it is in. The TCS Off light and the TCS light both turn on and stay on.
I took it to the local shop that I have my maintenance done at, and they said it threw 9 or so codes. They cleared the codes and told me to come back when it acted up again. Well it's doing the same thing and there is no check engine light this time, so i'm wondering what the problem could be.
It is almost like the computer set a rev limiter at 2500 RPMs because it will just bounce from 2500 to 2000 and back up if i'm giving it enough gas.
Thanks.
///BHRpowered
Jul 21 2009, 10:12 PM
Did you recently add an ebay chip?
The only time I have heard of this happened is when thats added. Despite what mts believes, the S has a "safety" mode it goes into sometimes, but the reasons are varied. Did they tell you what any of the codes were?
Matt
Jul 21 2009, 10:55 PM
QUOTE(mackin @ Jul 21 2009, 06:47 PM)

I'm just curious if you guys had any idea what could be wrong with my millenia S.
When i first start driving, it has it's normal spirited performance, and everything works fine, but after driving for 15 minutes or so, it wont go over 2500 RPMs no matter what gear it is in. The TCS Off light and the TCS light both turn on and stay on.
I took it to the local shop that I have my maintenance done at, and they said it threw 9 or so codes. They cleared the codes and told me to come back when it acted up again. Well it's doing the same thing and there is no check engine light this time, so i'm wondering what the problem could be.
It is almost like the computer set a rev limiter at 2500 RPMs because it will just bounce from 2500 to 2000 and back up if i'm giving it enough gas.
Thanks.
That is the limp home mode almost always caused by vacuum leaks, and the rest of the times it is caused by a bad ABV solenoid. If you would like to post the codes here, they might help pinpoint it, but I wouldn't even think twice about replacing all the vacuum lines and T's first. After that, you will want to ohm the ABV solenoids with a multimeter - while they are hot so the reading is accurate. And replace either or both if necessary. There is a vacuum diagram on here and should be instructions on getting to the vacuum lines. If they are not already on here I can get them and post it.
Saint
Jul 21 2009, 11:07 PM
QUOTE(Matt @ Jul 21 2009, 08:55 PM)

That is the limp home mode almost always caused by vacuum leaks, and the rest of the times it is caused by a bad ABV solenoid. If you would like to post the codes here, they might help pinpoint it, but I wouldn't even think twice about replacing all the vacuum lines and T's first. After that, you will want to ohm the ABV solenoids with a multimeter - while they are hot so the reading is accurate. And replace either or both if necessary. There is a vacuum diagram on here and should be instructions on getting to the vacuum lines. If they are not already on here I can get them and post it.
And use silicone hoses and brass tees.
Matt
Jul 21 2009, 11:44 PM
QUOTE(Saint @ Jul 22 2009, 12:07 AM)

And use silicone hoses and brass tees.
Yes and you will never have to worry about them again. Boostcontroller.com is a great source for the silicone hose (size is 4mm), and the T's can be found at mcmaster.com I can find the part number if you need it.
mackin
Jul 22 2009, 12:41 AM
I didn't get the codes from them, but when i had my car in a couple of months ago it had a bad precat, but they said it wouldn't have to be replaced right away if performance wasn't effected. (which it wasn't at the time).
If they can't figure out the problem today, i'll ask them about the hoses and solenoid.
thanks for the replies. btw no chip was added. I wouldn't buy anything other than Jet for the millenia anyway.
Matt
Jul 22 2009, 10:11 AM
You don't need to worry about getting the codes if you don't have them. Your problem is very specific. Your mechanic might also appreciate if you print off the color vacuum diagram. I don't know if you do your own work or let the mechanic do it, but the vacuum hoses and T's will be cheap but could cost you 2-4 hours of labor. To get to them the intercoolers and the assembly of the ABV actuator and intercooler piping will need to be removed. From there you will just need to replace all of them while verifying that they are routed correctly.
Here is the write-up:
http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=3387
The Only MTS
Jul 22 2009, 10:39 AM
If you recently worked on vacuum hoses, you have something placed wrong. Go over the vacuum system with a fine toothed comb and find the line that is misplaced.
And once again, BHR knows fuck all and should shut his piehole.
And I KNOW IT GOES INTO SAFE MODE, but NOT from a CEL you stupid fuck. It needs a more drastic issue than a basic CEL. You should learn more before opening your mouth for anything more than eating.
///BHRpowered
Jul 22 2009, 11:19 AM
incorrect
notall CEL's cause it, but once a problem is detected it goes into safe mode/limp mode, then triggers CEL.
I know someday from age alone I will have to replace all my vaccuum lines. I'm not looking forward to that day, but they will be replaced with top notch silicone hoses and brass t's
mackin
Jul 22 2009, 02:12 PM
I just got a call from my dad saying that it was the ABV Solenoid, so they ordered the part from mazda but it wont come until tomorrow, so i am without a car for another day.
if only i knew how to drive stick, I could steal my dads Corvette.
Thanks for all of the help! you were right on!
Saint
Jul 22 2009, 09:33 PM
QUOTE(///BHRpowered @ Jul 22 2009, 09:19 AM)

incorrect
notall CEL's cause it, but once a problem is detected it goes into safe mode/limp mode, then triggers CEL.
I know someday from age alone I will have to replace all my vaccuum lines. I'm not looking forward to that day, but they will be replaced with top notch silicone hoses and brass t's
The more you talk the more you sink.
///BHRpowered
Jul 22 2009, 10:54 PM
the more people fail to listen the more problems they have. Funny how that works
Troutman
Jul 23 2009, 07:08 AM
QUOTE(The Only MTS @ Jul 23 2009, 01:39 AM)

And once again, BHR knows fuck all and should shut his piehole.
mackin
Jul 23 2009, 12:54 PM
and now i'm livid because mazda is too stupid to check what the FUCK they are shipping so now they have 1 solenoid and 1 vent. they need 2 solenoids.
now my car has to sit outside in a thunderstorm for another FUCKING night. I WANT MY GOD DAMN CAR BACK.
/rant
///BHRpowered
Jul 23 2009, 01:10 PM
did you order from a dealership, or a website?
I have never had a problem at my mazda dealer beyond the "thats a eunos part we can't get it" bullshit
I wish I could remember where I order my MCE badges, excellent online source and no problems
Matt
Jul 23 2009, 04:54 PM
QUOTE(///BHRpowered @ Jul 23 2009, 02:10 PM)

did you order from a dealership, or a website?
I have never had a problem at my mazda dealer beyond the "thats a eunos part we can't get it" bullshit
I wish I could remember where I order my MCE badges, excellent online source and no problems
Tasca Mazda?
There's a ABV solenoid valve (vacuum) and an ABV solenoid valve (vent), what did they send?
///BHRpowered
Jul 23 2009, 09:06 PM
It was in washington state somewhere
I go to browns fairfax mazda
I have never had a single problem.
mackin
Jul 24 2009, 12:25 AM
QUOTE(Matt @ Jul 23 2009, 04:54 PM)

QUOTE(///BHRpowered @ Jul 23 2009, 02:10 PM)

did you order from a dealership, or a website?
I have never had a problem at my mazda dealer beyond the "thats a eunos part we can't get it" bullshit
I wish I could remember where I order my MCE badges, excellent online source and no problems
Tasca Mazda?
There's a ABV solenoid valve (vacuum) and an ABV solenoid valve (vent), what did they send?
what my dad told me is they sent an ABV solenoid and a vent. which i would assume means they either need 2 vacuums or they sent 2 vents idk. something got messed up so they need another part shipped.
my car gets maintenance done at Plymouth Tire and Auto and all i've heard is they ordered parts from "Mazda" so i'm not sure how they work that stuff out whether it's dealership or what.
Saint
Jul 24 2009, 03:52 AM
I would recommend parts.com as online parts supplier. Their parts are cheapest, OEM, and they use couple dealer so it is faster than a single dealer trying to mail parts back and forth. Shipping is acceptable.
Do not use oem mazda parts .com or something. Those bitches have cheap parts but charged 4 times higher for shipping than what ups.com gave to me.. I should dispute the charge sometime..
mackin
Jul 24 2009, 12:34 PM
i've just been letting the shop order the parts. they seem to be fair prices and we've used them for all of our cars.
If i do order some parts for a DIY fix i'll be sure to look out though. thanks.
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