JeffD
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Posts posted by JeffD
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Great, thanks alot. I'll look into that.
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Do our radios have an aux input in the back? I'm setting up sattelite radio, and would rather use that method than the cassette deck jack option.
Thanks
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We'll, I'm in NOVA and its 17 degrees right now but no fuel problems. It could be a faulty system but there must be something somewhere for it to keep coming, probably the first person I'v heard of with that code. Are you able to pour gas in with a gerry can? or will it still spill out?
I shot it in there yesterday from about an inch or two away from the end of the filler tube. It still wanted to backflow, and I had to keep stopping and not go too fast, but I got it in there. Took about 10-15 minutes to fill up.
I'd imagine with a can I'd still have the same problem.
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I'm in Maryland. Been below freezing for almost a week. I've got the info on the 455 code already. We've done diagnostics, pressure tests and never found anything wrong, but the code keeps popping up.
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I'm having a strange problem. For the last couple days I've tried fueling up my 2000 Millenia S, and it won't take fuel. The nozzle keeps shutting off, even when I just barely squeeze it. I've tried multiple gas stations and multiple pumps. I got it going for about 5 seconds this morning, and gas came gushing out all over the street. It's gotten VERY cold here the last week (below freezing). And I have P0455 CEL on (been on for a long time though, that's not new).
I called my cousin's shop, and he said he had a similar problem with a Hyundai recently. He thought there may be some moisture in the charcoal canister that froze and is causing a venting problem.
Anyone else ever had this happen, or any ideas?
Thanks.
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No, nothing's blinking and it seems to be driving okay at higher rpms and speeds. I can't tell if it's still a a little sluggish at low RPMs or if it's just in my head because my dash is lit up like a Christmas tree,
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Didn't think so. I do have the '96 service manual in PDF, I'll just have to try to go off of that.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the advice so far.
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On a WJ I know a bad speed sensor will trip the abs light, but Im just not sure about the millenia. You could try autozone or some place with a full code reader that can scan for everything.
I'm amazed it was on right away, that tells me something has just plain stopped responding or gone bad
Yeah, I'm thinking it's a bad sensor somewhere. Does Chilton or Haynes make a manual for these so I could find out where all this stuff is? I haven't been able to find anything.
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^^^On that note, what sensors would cause this that I could check? Wheel speed sensor, abs sensor maybe?
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hmm....assuming none of the lines are collapsing under vacuum I'm at a bit of a loss. You did disconnect battery and clear all codes before or right after doing the vacuum lines right?
I want to say a speed sensor could be triggering the abs light, but thats more a Jeep thing. How is the car handling? still sluggish?
Edit*
In regards to your 0455 CEL I found this
"A large leak has been detected in the evaporative system. Also, possible faulty or loose gas cap. Note: The respective Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual will direct the technician to determine if the vehicle evaporative system has an external system leak. Examples of some external system leaks are: a loose gas cap, a disconnected evaporative system hose, or a loose hose connection. Remember that the evaporative system may also have an internal system leak. This internal leak may be caused by an intermittent or permanently stuck open Duty Cycle Purge (DCP) valve. This leak source is considered to be internal because any escaping emissions enter into the engine system and not directly into the atmosphere, unlike an external leak. An internal leak may cause one of the above DTC?s. Possible causes of a stuck open (intermittent or permanent) DCP valve are: 1. Corrosion due to system moisture or possible water intrusion into the system."
The battery was out all day. As soon as I put the key back in, the TCS/ABS lights were back on. The CEL is off now, but that's just because the codes are scrambled from the battery being out. It will be back on in another week or so and I'll check to see if the 0455 code is still there. The gas cap & gasket look fine, maybe I'll replace it anyway just to see if it helps.
The fact that the lights were on IMMEDIATELY when I turned the key after the battery being out seems to indicate to me that it's a wiring/sensor problem. I REALLY don't want to take this thing to the dealer.
*sigh*
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Got it done today, wasn't too bad. Didn't fix the TCS/ABS problem though. Runs better with the new plugs though.
Any advice on where I should go next for the TCS/TCS Off/4W ABS lights?
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Cool, I'll probably wind up buying the upgraded vac lines that the ricers use. They're usually pretty thick compared to stock (even though they'll be red or yellow or something gay - haha).
I'll be doing the plugs too, I'm a real glutton for punishment!
THanks
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I'm getting ready to tackle this tomorrow (and the next day if need be). I'm going to just have to use vacuum line from my auto parts store since I don't have time to order anything fancy. 4mm ID is the correct size right? Also, I read in the thread you posted that the gaskets are metal. I was going to use high temp gasket maker (permatex). Is that a good option, or should I re-use the metal ones. Seems to me that the permatex would make a better seal, and I don't like re-using gaskets once they're off, metal or not.
Thanks again for the advice.
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Cool, thanks alot for the info. I'll be getting in there this week to get this sorted out. Took a quick look last night and it looks like a real challenge to get to all these.
Any tips on making it easier on myself?
(I sure do miss working on my '83 CJ7!)
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Supercharger produces 7psi of boost in first gear and 14psi in all over gears, there is also a special solonoid bypass that can activate a "power mode" still sounds to me like a vacuum leak though as I said, its a days job.
I found in my notes that it takes 30ft, green can be had from samco? and the link I have saved is boostcontroller.com. Just remember to get the double wall or thick or whatever, last thing in the world you want is a vacuum line collapsing then looking perfectly fine when inspecting.
*edit* this was what I was talking about, hard to find in search, but should give you all access you need.
http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php...87&hl=samco
Won't find this on the pissbucket under the xbox's and ghetto rats abusing millenias day in and day out "what do I need to make 22's fit"
Great link, thanks for that. I'll probably order that heavy duty hose just to avoid problems in the future, and it's not that expensive. Can't find the brass tees on that site, but I'm sure I can get those locally.
Thanks again.
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If you found the diagram that's great....There is something like 20 - 25 feet of vacuum lines under the hood. When I did mine a couple of years ago, taking my time, it took about 4 hours....just take your time and do them ONE AT A TIME......
Thanks for the advice, I'll have to get in there and figure out what size vacuum lines I need.
As a WJ owner I can tell you that nothing is like working on a millenia, not even an audi.
For the first time around I'd plan on a full day worth of work just to access all the vacuum lines. IMO just replace them one by one since there are so many running around. It's just easier and avoids problems down the road. I'd also recommend upgrading to some double wall silicone hoses so you only have to do this once.
Link somewhere that has green ones to match the miller-cycle theme, 40 bucks or something to do whole engine bay.
It does sound like a vacuum leak, did it get worse as the temp changed? seafoamed or anything else lately?
I'll look for that link, thanks for the heads up on the double wall lines. I'll check that out. No change in performance with weather changes (not that I've noticed anyway). I does feel quite sluggish at lower RPMs though. If I punch it, it still takes off pretty well, but the lower RPM cruising seems to be the worst.
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Hey guys, I posted this over on .org, but thought I'd try here also.
I have a 2000 S and I have the TCS/TCS Off/4W ABS Lights on & P0455 (Evaporative emissions control system leak (large leak or blockage) detected). The lights started intermitently, I would drive for a few minutes, then they would come on. Now they're on all the time. I do have a bit of sluggishness, no stalling or anything though. Sounds to me like this is the vacuum leak problem causing all of this. I got the vacuum hose schematic from the sticky, and i did a search, but the resulting threads were a slightly different problem. I haven't been under the hood yet however. Is there a good way to go about replacing the vacuum lines, or is it fairly straight forward once I get in there. I've done this before on old Jeep CJ-7s and Wranglers, but those lines are right in your face when you open the hood. Just wondering how it is with the Milly.
Any advice or diagnostic expertise is appreciated. This is a great site by the way. I stumbled across it while searching and I'm very glad I did.
Thanks
Factory Stereo/cd Removal
in Millenia / Eunos 800 / Xedos9
Posted
I just spent the better part of a day trying to get my factory stereo out of my 2000 S. I did lots of searching on how to do it and finally got it out. I thought I'd snap some pics and post them up since I had such a hard time finding them and visualizing what I was trying to do.
This post has to do with using/making din tools and the tabs that have to be pressed to get the head unit out. In order to get to those holes, you need to pry off the plastic side tabs, which come out very easily. Just be gentle.
As far as using the din tools to get the radio out of the the dash, I found it's a finesse operation. When I used them on my old Volkswagen, I just rammed them in there and it popped out, not the case with this one. I made din tools from an old wire coat hanger, they work fine, like I said you just have to be patient and work them a little. Here are the pics I snapped, hopefully they'll help someone down the road who does a search for this topic.
Here's what the tabs look like that you're trying to release. You can see how the din tool is only inserted about 1/2" to 3/4" in order to push on the 2 (4 total per side) small release tabs.
Here you can see how easy it is to slide the din tool under the release tabs (the top is correct, the bottom is UNDER the tabs). There is a side view and a front view so you can see the type of angle you need to insert the tools properly.
They don't go straight in, angle them in there towards the outside to ensure you have the tools on the tops of the release tabs. Again, top is correct, bottom tool is under tabs
When you get the tools in there properly, you feel them pushing on the tabs. There will be a spring-like resistance when you gently push outward with the tools. I set one din tool, made sure I felt the tabs, then left it there and did the next one until all 4 were in position. Then I gently pulled all 4 outward and rocked the radio back and forth until it was released. It took quite a few times to get it, but I got it - FINALLY. I didn't even realize the radio was released when I finally got it, it only takes a few millimeters to get it past those tabs then it will pull right out.
After reading all the problems people were having getting these things out of there, I'm sure this will help someone in the future. If you're close to Baltimore, send me an email and we'll get it done together if you're having problems.
Let me know if you have any questions, hope this helps.
Good luck.