enginph
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Posts posted by enginph
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Injector cleaning is perfectly fine and it makes a difference (at 170k).
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Dr Pikachu would have an orgasm.
Dr Pikachu is actually a penguin?
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What did the penguins say??
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Saint, do you have any oil leaks? In the spark plug wells?
Wouldn't that cause a lot to be "burned up"?
Yes I have oils at some plug wells. However that leak is very slow. The main leak is at valve seats. Thats why if it sits too long it smokes at first. Compressor has the typical mist on the walls, nothing excessive.
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maybe I should switch.....but after 118K would it do more harm than good?
Before synthetic around 110k it used to burn maybe 0.5 qt between oil changes (3k). After synthetic I started adding 1 qt between oil changes (5k-7k). Then I had to dump 4 qt between synthetic changes. It was gradual. Then I switched to dino before covering the cats with oil but it didnt help. Now I dump 1 qt after 1500 miles and at 3k it is below L.
Long story short, I will never switch to synthetic again on a high mileage car.
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I have the same, couple coils were swimming. I changed PCV at 120k or so.
My recent smog report, before injector cleaning:
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I doubt a leaking VC could cause that much, maybe your just in CA and thee stupid hippies. I think those results may pass in VA
spark plugs, filter, and of course coils which I think you replaced awhile ago correct? No CEL's?
I replaced everything and failed again and again in HCs just like him. And I know anyhere person here who failed with a high mileage MCE. I think this is generic to 2.3L.
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I didnt test after changing the injectors but looking at the power and mpg gains I am likely to pass. Wait for my result and then clean the injectors.
I bought a used set off ebay, sent them for cleaning and swap my old ones with cleaned ones. I have my used set if you wanna do as I do. Or you can send your set and wait a week.
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yous all is funny.......I just shelled out $2800 to get mine all fixed at the dealership....TOTALLY WORTH IT!!!!!
I am sick of people saying it is not worth putting money into a milly.....that's BS!!!! a payment on a new car in one year is more than what i spend on my milly!!!!! AND it it drives SO MUCH BETTER!!!!!
It's a win win in my book! No other MAZDA or car is like it.......not even my brand new Touring Edition Odyssey.
Saint, we need to talk. Need to see what you've done and what needs to be done on yours to get it to pass CA emission.....
Sure Frank. Let me call you soon. 7pm-10pm ok for you?
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Hey thats a gray 01-02, ME! Maybe BHR would be interested to buy?
Why do you have 2.5 rims though?
Hey thats a gray 01-02, ME! Maybe BHR would be interested to buy?
Why do you have 2.5 rims though?
Nevermind, there are 2 milleniae in your post.
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Should I say sorry or congrads? What is the problem with milly? I think I missed it. And how much exactly did it make? I may junk it soon as well, cannot pass emissions...
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G'old Ren is back?
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Why do we need a group buy for injector cleaning? All you really need is to get them out and 3 dollars of cleaner
It is too complicated for DIY. Doesnt worth the whole time and investment. You need a fuel rail, a pulser to pulse the injectors at different speed, ultrasonic bath, and a system to accurately measure the flaw rate before and after. Then you need a lot of injectors that you can group according to flaw rates closely thus the variation in a set is minimum.
A member recently did that and he had 8% variation among injectors before! (@ 135k miles). That means some good injectors has to inject more fuel to make the lazy injector's cylinder happy. Some will run rich and some will be lean. Not good for mpg and performance.
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Hey guys we are trying to clean our injectors. One member in .org has the setup and knowledge to do it properly and looking for people to chime in.
If you have a high mileage Milly you should join. The cost is effectively zero since you probably will have an mpg increase that will offset the initial cost of cleaning in a short time.
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Remove the hose that goes into the filter, connect an extension hose, and run the pump.
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Idling it for 2 days straight?
Keep the fuel lid open for 2 days straight (dont turn on/off the lights though)?
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If you have a lot of time to deal with an aging car, sure. I am at a point that I cant afford to have a possible functionality problem with my car.
I couldnt pass smog and couldnt register the car. Now I am trying to keep my driving at a minimum, I cant go wherever I want anymore. If I can pass I will look for another (nicer) car, already looking, and keep milly as a daily driver till it dies.
On the other hand, it may still make sense to fix all those and continue to drive. One better option would be to get a cheaper to maintain old car like a civic but then it is a boring civic.
Just to make you a little happy, I found this article in the weekend.
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/loca...arcosts09m.html
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front tires?
there in front?
Size, brand, color, etc...?
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the pics have been posted befor,e long before.
There was a thread for a group buy from ren several years ago but no one got in, so I got the specs and had new calipers brackets made. Thats really all you need since I already had SS lines.
Picked up from rotors, calipers, and pads. probably around 1800 for everything
What are the front tires?
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god damn it why didnt i see this... i have 3 new ones but need 3 more
No coils left on the supplier. I have two extra only. Dealer is the only source for now.
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I request ///BHRpowered's commentary.
He changes his fuel more often than I change my oil.
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I think they dont have cams in that engine in the vid.
24 valves, working in the rear bank for hours, lots of special tools, air tools, and who knows what will go wrong. And once you get there you would also wanna do the valve adjustment. Besides the piston rings are also not good on mine. This is definitely not a DIY job.
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My understanding was that oil somehow leaks through the supercharger when the engine is off, which is then burned upon startup. My Eunie died over this issue so I hope you have better luck.
I don't see how the leak could occur with the engine off. Seals on the SC are located at the bearings, which means that leakage should only occur under pressure. There is no gravity pulling the oil down like with bad valve seals.
Seals prevent horizontal leakage. But maybe i'm dead wrong.
If they leak while sitting we would be left without any oil in 10 minutes when its running. I am still arguing most of the startup smoke comes from the valve seals. I dont think there is much difference between 2.3 and 2.5 in terms of this issue.
So 2 questions:
1. Anybody attempted to change them?
2. Is it worth when the time comes (mine are well due now)? IIRC it is listed as a 20+ hours job.
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The tranny in the S is very strong, only know of 2 failures in the whole history of MW. 1 of which was a freak thing.
It's not HARD to change out the supercharger, but it does take alot of time and labeling where everything goes.
Question - Is yours a 4WS model?
My TCC solenoid failed at round 130k miles. It was age related and was a hassle to find parts and change.
A/c Drain Holes
in Millenia / Eunos 800 / Xedos9
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It drips just behind the front passenger wheel But frankly I couldnt see the hole. I am sure mine is partially clogged too.