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enginph

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Posts posted by enginph

  1. Finally i was able to get a picture and sound of the knock. It had just started when in D, so i let it in Drive and aplied the handbreak...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thNpTPRPPB8

     

    In a bad day that knock will be just like the one in that milly on youtube.

     

    Now...im getting really pissed off...and will have the timing belt and sparkplugs changed this week. Im so sad i cant even look at the car. If the knock stays: i will be saying goodbye to this car.

     

    Wish i won´t.

     

    How does the exhaust sound? Smooth or you can hear the knocks? It may be missing the sparks at times.

     

    It sounds ok. But yesterday while driving the knock was there for sure: at 80 miles/h, the engine stuttered a bit, like the gas was gonna end on me...

     

    By the end of this week i'll know if it's a car to last, or just to part. Finger's crossed!

     

    What are you gonna do? Did you stick your ear at the exhaust tip and listen? If you are loosing power it shouldnt be a simple bearing. Maybe the t-belt tensioner. Also check the tension of the drive belts. I can stretch them 2-3 cm by just pressing bare hand.

     

  2. Finally i was able to get a picture and sound of the knock. It had just started when in D, so i let it in Drive and aplied the handbreak...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thNpTPRPPB8

     

    In a bad day that knock will be just like the one in that milly on youtube.

     

    Now...im getting really pissed off...and will have the timing belt and sparkplugs changed this week. Im so sad i cant even look at the car. If the knock stays: i will be saying goodbye to this car.

     

    Wish i won´t.

     

    How does the exhaust sound? Smooth or you can hear the knocks? It may be missing the sparks at times.

     

  3. woah woah woah, 1qt of oil in 1k, thats pretty extreme, even my Jeep burns less then 1/4th at 3500 miles. Your oil is hella old but shouldn't cause a failure, IMO there probably just telling you that you failed so you'll buy a hybrid.

     

    Question: why have you gone to 5w-40? Proper weight is 10w-30 or 5w-30 syn. Your making the engine work alot harder, that or your cat might be STARTING to go bad

     

    I changed to 5w40 hoping that it would cut off my oil consumption. It had no effect, so I will go back to 5w30. O2 sensor may also be old enough..

     

  4. I surprisingly failed emissions today. Here is what I got 2 years ago:

     

    IPB Image

     

    List of what is done in 2 years:

     

    - New spark plugs (correct part number, did it myself)

    - New Tees and hoses

    - New PCV valve (OEM)

    - New thermostate (OEM)

    - New fuel filter (OEM)

    - Oil shifted from M1 10w30 to Amsoil 5w40

     

    No codes in 2 years. Here is what I get today:

     

    IPB Image

     

    HCs are high and CO is relatively high.

     

    My oil has 4300miles on and the fuel was the same as 2 years ago. Oil consumption is almost the same as before, 1 qt per 1000miles. There is a storm and it is very humid today.

     

    When they remove the bumper to paint they changed the driver side yellow parking bulb, I found a broken bulb in the airbox. Since they didnt change me for the bulb change I am not gonna bitch about this. I cleaned the MAF after failing btw. There were two small flies stuck in MAF mesh (no idea what they are doing there) but other than that it looks pretty clean.

     

    I put 91 octane 2 tanks ago. Is it possible that it still thinks there is 91 in the tank and use the related a/f maps? I think 89 octane is better in terms of HC failure so I will go with it for the next test.

     

    Any suggestions are welcomed.

     

  5. My roommate is looking for an M3. I think its a great car but I wonder why Bhr sold his? What is not good about it?

     

    I checked the parts they are not expensive. Checked couple front suspension parts millenia parts are almost double the price and outnumbers M3 parts of course.. Motor mounts are arouns $110 compared to $160 for milly.

     

  6. yes car drives but pretty loud knocking coming from underneath on acceleration and also deceleration, also when car goes into dip in road. Noise goes away when coasting in neutral. I need the car at Christmas hence the urgency.

     

    Are you sure its the axles? How many miles/kms? I changed my left axle thinking it was going bad. Turns out to be it was still good but my engine and tranny mount is bad. I still have some clicking/knocking noise under acceleration. Mounts are on the wait list to be changed.

  7. Definitely go with raxles.com . I bought 2 axles for my brother and one for myself. I think the build quality is much better than OEM. They use silicone boots and amsoil synthetic oil. Marty is the owner IIRC. He ships to outside US as well.

     

    Thanks again Saint, have emailed them for a quote. BTW also looking at remanufactured in UK now to save time as shipping to UK might take 2weeks or more.

     

    Make sure you find a high quality one. BTW raxle axles and not re-manufactured and will cost around $180/ea if you dont return the cores. The cores saves you around $60/ea. Why are you in a hurry? Is it driveable?

  8. grannyism.....

     

    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&cli...mp;oq=&aqi=

     

    <h3 class="r">Weird stuff people say. - Page 10 - The Unofficial GuildWars Site</h3> - 12:50am10 posts - 7 authorsMy granny says it all the time to my 3 yr old. Clotheid - I presume clot head, I spelled it the way it sounds. Another granny-ism I love my gran. ...

    guildwars.incgamers.com/showthread.php?t=474195&page=10 - Cached -

     

  9. An advanced driving course is recommended. I'd owned 3 ABS-equipped cars but had never experienced it until the other day. There's not much pedal pulsation in the Holden as I was expecting (Bosch version 5.3 I believe), I wonder how the Mazdas would compare.

     

    Pulsation depends on lots of stuff including the lines (SS vs rubber), speed and the pads. The Holden should have very mushy lines by now.

     

    Well I knew ABS will kick in but what can I do? I have to stop so press harder and harder till the edge of ABS triggering. Couple weeks ago a lexus IS just decided he wouldnt pass on yellow light and decided to hard brake. That thing stops really quick. I could hardly stop..

  10. Unlike you I drive enough to VERIFY my tires wear evenly. The right tires always wear more than the left though; lefties tend to be taken at higher speeds. This applies to most drivers unless they always drive like grannies.

     

    Just by coincidence yesterday I sprayed some tire dressing and realized the right two were worn a little more than the lefts. I was wondering why. My tires are unidirectional so left is always on the left.

     

    The rear of the tread edges when touching to the ground is thicker than the front edge. As if it will grip more when accelerating than braking. Should be the result of braking. All in all my traction is compromised now, after 25k miles on these yokohamas. ABS kicks in at least once a week. Being all season tires is a contribution for sure. We bought summer high performance kumhos to my friends civic. His car sticks to the road now. We tested the brakes and he couldnt brake hard to kick ABS in. Well he was scared to push harder, which I told he should overcome.

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