enginph
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Posts posted by enginph
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hmm
On the alternator, not in. When the front valve cover starts to leak, it can leak down the front of the engine onto the alternator. And this is not uncommon. The engine I put in my mx6 definitely was doing this as the alternator was coated in oil.
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I believe so...
I was always under the opinion that any kind of water was not good for leather.
I conditioned mine yesterday. The leather cleaner made them softer but not a bit cleaner.. These guys have a guideline, but i wouldnt use soap on leather..
http://www.ehow.com/how_3138_clean-leather.html
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Why would there be oil in alternator?
Seafoaming may work?
When this thread is done I HIGHLY recommend copying out some of those posts, including those pictures and adding to the tech section.
Also miller, with the oil leak did you notice build up of oil on your alt?
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The thing is reflector was designed assuming there is single light source at a known place (filament in the bulb). But LEDs doesnt fit to this assumption.
For eagle eyes, my 01 inner lights dont stay straight out, rather they point to inner. Outer are more directed to straight back.
Well...
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SUCCESS MOTHER FUCKERS!!!! IT TOOK NEARLY 5 TIMES LONGER THEN ANY RETROFIT i HAVE EVER DONE, ALMSOT 57 TEST FITTINGS, BUT NOW, OH SWEET NOW AT 1:30AM ITS ALL PERFECT. The alinement is dead on, each projector is colormodded exactly the same, and bixenons are in full effect.
Now around 2am I hope to start the first test drive with them
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I don't on my car but we can try on yours if you like
What is the verdict on this?
Do you use diluted bleach to "clean" leather seats?
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It is not Kitt, it doesnt have mind.
P5000: De Javu
The cars pcm doesn't 'look' for problems, or remember past ones. If the cel comes on, then there's a problem (right now). The pcm only relays the message that there is a problem.
what was told by me is that the problem was fixed but i shouldnt expect to be able to leave the shop and go to a emissions place and pass...so therefore i should drive around some and test the fix and the Cel may or may not come back on.....he said that the car might recognize that its not fixed and throw a CEL but after a while it will find the fix and eventually turn off..
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If you really wanna clean your seat (and i mean "clean"), use bleach, if you just wanna take the dirt out then dont
I heard that BHR cleans his exterior with bleach
I would not use bleach (diluted or not) on leather.
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So you will fry out the eyes of all upcoming traffic, is that what you are up to? Tell me if you ever come to ohio i wont drive then.
no no no, I installed bixenon projectors, which use a single hid bulb for both my low and my high beam. the high beam reflector is attached so I can't just remove it, plus what would be in its place.
Under normal conditions the above applies, but the high beam "beam" will only work if I turn the low beams on, on cars with oem hids there are circuits and relays that say "if high beam is activated, and low beams are off, turn on low beams for 30 seconds (or so) and supply power to shield as need" or something along those lines.
What your talking about is what ill do ONE day a year when I have to go through inspection, then the old high beam reflector will be used and thats it. But the reflector and that semi flat area with the projector hole is all 1 part, can't take them apart, and then you would just see the bare plastic and dust caps, quite ghetto.
So to review - normal driving = HID high and low beam from the same projector, at night it will be oem, during the day I would have to hit the low beam switch then pull the highbeams to flash or whatever.
1 day a year for safety inspection I will use halogen everything...assholes...
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P5000: De Javu
The cars pcm doesn't 'look' for problems, or remember past ones. If the cel comes on, then there's a problem (right now). The pcm only relays the message that there is a problem.
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Shoot. It seems a little hard and dangerous, considering the price of a new headlight set.
Nope they are plastic in 01.
The lowbeams are philips and highbeam sylviana, neither rice. In my case there is dust stuck inside the assembly in passenger side. And there is some dust (although not very visible) on driver side. The prev owner f.ed up something on passenger side but i dont know what happened. Maybe it got wet inside, wiper fluid? dont know..
I fit a hose from highbeam opening and can easily scratch a little inside, that part was crystal clear now. Before that i used the wetsand sht for hours and hours before i realized there wont be any plastic left if i went on..
If i could wipe inside with a damp cloth it will clean but no f.ing access
And with that sht inside the car overall looks pretty crappy. Like a pirate with single eye.. Damn. actually saint, the yellowing is caused by crappy bulbs that don't have a UV quartz glass around them, i.e any rice light.
also, sealing does mean crap, you know those huge holes in back to get to the bulbs?. Also as with all headlights there are small drain areas which a determined bug can get into.
I haven't worked with the 01-02 BUT THEY SHOULD BE GLASS!!!! NOT FUCKING PLASTIC!!! Anyway, about 5 minutes at 350 degrees, make sure all the retainer clips are off before putting it in. Sealant will expand a bit, then using a flat head screw driver start to go around wedging it apart, you have a limited amount of time though, if you don't get it off within the first 45 seconds of so its going to be a real pain
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Thats what i am looking for. Did you bake the headlight to take out the outer plastic? How did you do it? I need to access inside of the light, passenger side is foggy because of dust stuck from inside, driver side has even dead bug inside. I dont know what kind of shitty sealing did mazda used..
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chat...
what is irc?
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Possible on the site?
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And is that why i am smelling unburned gas while warming up and my friends think my car is old enough not to burn the gas completely?
And europeans, dont you all have cruise computer on xedos? It keeps track of the fuel..
Miller, get a block heater, or clean out your garage. The reason cars (Mazda's especially) get such bad mileage is that it takes a long time to get to operating temp, and during that time you run really rich. It's especially bad with Mazda because they have a cold temp enrichment program in the pcm. That's also why the idle is unbelieveably high during warm up. And since the engines cool down faster, just about every time you start the car you have to go through the lengthy warm up process. You need either a block heater of a fat chick to curl up to your engine to keep it warm.
Clasiqued, I hate you because I'm jealous.
As for mileage, any time I drove, I'd get at least 550k/55L, and for some reason the CEL would always go out on lengthy drives. RenGirl driving it was consistently 480-500 and the CEL would come back...women.
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I am talking about the vids:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtSeCgQ4GZs...ted&search=
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unNNEHQWIHk...ted&search=
There is some noise around s/c or from the valves, i am not sure..
As for seafoam, i guess i did it 3 weeks ago and didnt have any problem. Smooter, quiter, more aggressive... would do again..
kind of noisy? Where?
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Its mine. And it never smokes when it is warm outside... It starts smoking like the first puff while i was spraying seafoam... And never smoked again after 15mins of driving. But not sure if s/c is good or not, no oil in i/c, oil in s/c lobes.. Kind of noisy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtSeCgQ4GZs
That first puff was not seafoam...
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I guess i will put not less than stock bright. Thanks anyways..
If your interested I have my old 7440 red towers I use to have in my turn signals. There not QUITE as bright as stock, but they are full towers, red. I'll let you have them for 30 shipped for the pair if your interested. These are what I'm talking about (for sale, not what I use)
http://superlumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/7443r_tower.jpg
Anubis, I wouldnt put resistors for every LED. i would put enough resistance to make CC work thats all. Actually i plan to use the old bulbs as resistors in case CC stop working.. It still works for me with outer brakes bulbs, inners LEDs...
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So BHR which LEDs are the brightest there? Put the picture or complete name pls..
And did you put 01/02 lights to 00?
indeed, you really need to go with some towers from SL.
Here is a pic with towers on the inside and standard 7443 on the outside, the led's are actually brighter. You will also note that all 4 lights come on with the marker lights, and all 4 go to high when braking.
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Here is what i used:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2pcs-7440-7...00883QQtcZphoto
http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-501-W5W-High-Powe...oQQcmdZViewItem
Tails are not bright enough, and you can find a better shape for license. This is not the best shape. I put some aluminum foil to reflect the light.
I have 3 tails and a front side marker burned..
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The 5W filaments are broken as far as i see from outside. I need to find cheap and very bright LEDs first.. If i had time i would build my own tower with much better LEDs but no time for that...
Some pics:
So are they burned out, or electrical gremlins? We await the bulb replacement to see.
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It seems darn hard to do even bhr wouldnt deal with it.. If you add 38hp to 2.5 did you change the tranny. It wont survive too long with 208hp..
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Well all brake filaments are still in good condition. My friend warned me that one of my tails didnt work (which comes on with the parks/headlights). Probably 3 didnt work but i didnt realize before BHRs post..
Well if 1 of the filiments in the bulbs was burned out then yes, that would also do it. But now I'm wondering, before you put in the LED's were ALL 4 of your brake lights not working under braking, only when the headlights were on. If that is the case It is amazing you were nto reended
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I realized i have two more burned filaments (the outers), LED conversion soon. Hope cc works.. Thanks man saved my life (maybe)
I'v never seen a millenia where all 4 didn't light in sync, including 01-02 millenia's. Did this happen when you installed the led's, or always been like this
Leds
in Millenia / Eunos 800 / Xedos9
Posted
Anubis, those small LEDs suck! Best is surface mounts and then larger round ones on the market...