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Super S 69

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Posts posted by Super S 69

  1. Everybody knows my car is full of rust. Looking at the carfax, it was sold to the dealer, he couldnt sell it for months then sold in auction to another, he couldnt sell it for months either and finally i bought it. When i bought it it sat outside. So it is likely that it sat on snow for sometime..

     

    So that bolt is 10-15mm long then. What about the third picture from MTSs tread? I will try to find a new clamp..

     

    BHR i doubt it was ever changed..

     

    A.K.A Lot rot

  2. Cheers. Bolts shouldn't snap off in the head (aluminium). The worst that could have happened is one of the two studs screwed out of the head instead of the bolt screwing off the stud. Even at that, it's just a little more inconvenient than anything, since at that point you only have one stud to slide the manifold onto and then pray you don't cross-thread anything.

     

    Curious, how long did it take you, and how many of the manifold bolts/nuts were you actually able to use a torque wrench on?

     

    Bolts can and will snap in a aluminum it esp on eshuast manifolds. Took me about 3-4hrs wasnt in a rush and took my time. There were no studded bolts btw all 12mm. I didnt use a torque only by feel. I torque alot of stuff by hand so u get used to it.

  3. well what had happened is that my check engine light went off a month or so ago and we got a diagnostic and the outcome of that was i needed a new O2 sensor...we didnt replace. then a few days ago it was going on and off then on and off so we took it in and there was a different code this time than the last, so the mechanic guy said he didnt know much about the P1173. I told him i would post on here and let him know and see what he found. so i guess my O2 sensors are just all messed up? thanks guys and let me know what i should most likely do from here.

     

    Change whatever o2 sensor asap whatever one is faulty can cause cat or precat damage

  4. :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap: Thanks my man didnt have time to get it cleared at auto zone driving hom looking at how fast i was goin cel light goes out . I can pass inspection now yayyyyyyyy.

    What else is gonna go wrong next. Lets first S/C then precat. Awww the so many things to choose from lol.

     

    Actually it was that bad i just kept taking stuff apart until i had room. Luckly no bolts snapped in the head that was my greasted concern.

     

    P.S

    B.H.R

    Get road head from a whore in your milly. :torture:

  5. Since you probably don't have flatspotting, it sounds like the wheels need to be balanced, which is cheap and easy, I would do an alinement anyway jsut because you should get it done no more then every 6k. If the rotors are warpped the steering wheel would shake back and forth and you would feel it in the pedal

     

    OMg are u serious alignment every 6k what drugs are you on i really want some.

    If your doing ecstasy hook me up. At work whenever i do alignments etheir buy request or when the customer gets new tires just to cover your ass and make sure everything is in spec. Like Ren said 50k or higher depends on tire wear.

     

    Dude id love to be your Mechanic alignment every 6k with your maintence mentality you call own a dealer full of millys instead of dumping it into one.

  6. save the whoring till after the milly's fixed pls.

     

     

    Whoring outside of the lounge is not tolerated and enforced at all times. The Millenia section, including this thread gets checked 5-10 times a day and any off-topic post removed.

     

    I believe your best bet lies in the plug wire itself, have you replaced any of the spark plugs recently? or rather how many miles are on them, if there truely old it could be just enough to trip the code.

     

    As for as idle the fuel/air meter would come into play, at low rpm's its not mixing just right to keep the engine truely running. Although I'm not sure why it would work when you put the cleaners in.

     

    Thanks for telling us that bhr we know that :picsnow:

  7. hmm...in nj, seeing a millenia is like getting shot in the heart. they are soo busted up, ghettofied and with those ugly chrome linings :sick: but when u see a clean one, its pure happiness

     

    Got that right they are not even worth looking at so shot to shit. :mad: :poke: :picsnow:

     

    And they are all Ls never see an S old or new :noidea:

  8. Yes -- most interested in these instructions of which you speak. Share with the brethren...and sis...sisterth...n :noidea:

     

    Sorry i dont know what i did with them scan up a couple posts thats what they told me to do anyway. lol

    And btw if u want disconnect your exhaust and wash the pipe with some type solvent to get rid of any oil in there. Cause your car will still smoke on start if you dont. I didnt do it cause i didnt feel like crawling underneath my car. I change the s/c in my garage. But it will eventually go away and plus its not that much. Good luck and let us know how u make out.

     

    Plus after the engine is primed and you go to start it let it idle for a while. I let it idle for about 15-20mins just to make sure.

  9. Well I got the manuals today, including the wiring diagram.

     

    I did not know there is an amp for the center speaker also

     

    It does not clearly indicate which outputs from the head unit are front right & left, rear right & left, etc. So... if I intend to use the factory head unit to feed my new amp I still have some work to do.

     

    Has anyone indentified the outputs from the Bose headunit already using a volt meter?

     

    Here are the schematics. I am betting that the front and rear head unit outputs are 1N, 1M, 1L and 1K. Problem is 1J might be an output for a center channel. Gonna have to look at this a bit more and probably check voltage from the head unit for them using the fader, balance and volume.

     

    response -

     

    I'm not sure if this answers your question about the center amp and center speaker, but here is some history of what I have heard about the evolution of that speaker. I'm not sure if this historical account is completely accurate, but this is what I think occured:

     

    The original Millenia designed and built in Japan had a head unit, with single amp, with a four speaker system.

     

    The original design also had a hands-free cellular phone option. And that option used the small separate amp and center speaker for the sound, and a small microphone that mounted on the small center sun visor to speak into.

     

    In that original Millenia design, that center speaker and amp had nothing whatsoever to do with the stereo system. It was a dedicated speaker and amp that was only used for the hands-free cellular phone. It did not play music from the stereo, only sound from the cellular phone option.

     

    When the Millenia was introduced to the rest of the world, they eliminated the hands free cellular phone option (due to cost cutting issues at Mazda). So, they simply spliced that amp and center speaker into the existing wiring of the main stereo headunit.

     

    Also, the cost to develop the dashboard in the Millenia was extremely expensive. It was probably the most expensive dashboard design in the history of Mazda, and used leather craftsman with hand made molds that was then programmed into computers and robots. And it already was designed around that center speaker. So they had to find something to do with the center speaker once the decision was made to eliminated the hands free cellular phone option. Because the cost to redesign the dashboard, molds, assembly robots, computer programs, etc. to eliminate the center speaker would have also been expensive.

     

    So the cheapest option was to simply splice it into the existing stereo and leave it on the dashboard.

     

    Bhr please help me out and send me one ill really appreciate it :thumbup1:

     

  10. its not a matter or being lazy, I do it on the jeep all the time, but its FASTER and CHEAPER to do it at the dealer, plus they tighten all the chassis bolts, look everything over, and I need the handbrake adjusted and the tranny flushed anyway

     

    Tighten chassis bolts what are u talking about. Please explain

     

    There is also a service bulletin (for the 2,5 that is) on this matter, implies dropping the pan, releasing a locknut on a downward facing adjustment bolt and adjust it.

     

    Link

     

    Any bulletions on the 2.3 trans just cause no problems with mine just curious thanks

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