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Jdubs99

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Posts posted by Jdubs99

  1. I guess if you have to have one, keep a cheap ass "fuzzbuster" on the dash, that'll cover up the integrated model. I think Escort has a model now that works with automatics. It's supposed to downshift automatically when it detects a radar source that it determines is strong enough to be a radar gun.

  2. Yea, the buick.... Had some rough financial times, the Avenger was due back for lease turn in, the bank wanted to sell it to me for more than it was worth, so...

     

    I wish I had digital images of the work i did on the Avenger. Made kickpanels, fiberglass enclosure for two Oz Audio Matrix Elite 12"s, Kicker RMB 8" subs in the doors, Focal Utopia 6.5"s in the kick panels, two JL Audio 500/1 and a JL Audio 300/4. My pride and joy was an Alpine 7998R, wish I still had it.

     

    Yea, been in Erlanger since I was a wee lad of 3. Where you located?

  3. I remembering seeing something a couple years ago about someone stealing the remotes that can control traffic lights and selling them on ebay. I really wasn't sure they existed until today. I was sitting at a red light, light turned green. I start to go, and all the sudden the light went to yellow for about 1 second, and back to red. An ambulance, no lights or siren, suddenly made the turn from my left to go straight. Kind of pissed me off they would abuse that in a non-emergency situation, but damn do I want one now.

  4. Some amps don't needs caps anyway, any amp with a PWM power supply is going to regulate the power it uses to ensure consistent power delivery. JL audio and alpine for example. Any amp that uses an unregulated power supply, like Rockford Fosgate, has the potential to overperform if voltage and amperage are there. The 325.1 for example, can perform at over 400 watts with a higher amperage alternator and a low ESR cap.

     

    As for nitrous, no thanks. All the hassle, danger, and extra wear and tear for an occasional burst of speed just doesn't add up.

  5. I'd worry more about the apex seals and electrical system, I've read the solder joints in most of the boards were substandard on the 2nd gen. Good choice on the duals, a lot of members on the old RX7 board i used to visit were able to throw flames going with duals and straight pipes all the way back. I'd like to get a 2nd gen someday as a project car.

  6. Nah, we sold these at Best Buy, i was going to install them, but I have a problem with drilling holes in the headlights. Not to mention, i'm sure the first time I decide to use them I'd get busted or at least called in.

  7. We're gonna need the cars that drive themselves soon. Cell phones, MP3 players, mobile video systems...Jesus. I can't think of a worse time to integrate all this crap than when driving.

     

    I guess I'm old school, I do have Sirius and a bluetooth headset, but I just enjoy listening to music, and occasionally mashing the pedal. I don't try to run the defense department and drive at the same time.

  8. Last i saw the only states where radar dectectors are illegal was Virginia and DC. Some states don't allow any devices to be on the windshield, i guess they could use that as a technicality. Escort is the way to go, check out www.radarbusters.com.

  9. bahahahaha

     

    Modern caps for car audio applications are a little different than the old ones. David Navone, the "Car Audio God", at a recent conference, put a capacitor in his pants and shorted it with his keys. Needless to say, nothing happened. As far as getting shocked, 12 volts doesn't hurt that much, it's more tingly than anything. It usually only happens to me when using a test probe instead of my multimeter.

     

    I'd be more afraid of a bottle warmer relay going bad on a nitrous tank than a cap exploding. I remember seeing pictures a few years back of a black maxima getting destroyed along with the guy's garage.

  10. It's a little involved, and I'd need a wiring diagram, but you just need a master switch capable of handling the full amperage load of all the rear lights, cut the power supply side or ground side to all of them, wire a relay to each circuit, and it will cut or supply power to those circuits.

  11. From my audio work this week, I can speak for the 01's. Oddly enough, my car didn't get the 6 disc indash player but is indeed Bose. I do have loss after adding 4 ohm speakers. There are no individual amps for the front and rear speakers, just an OEM four channel somewhere in the trunk. Everytime I power on the audio, I can hear the relays click in the trunk. The 8" sub had it's own amp attached to the driver, and sounded terrible. Interior speakers were all 2 ohm. 6.5" in door, 1" tweeter in sail panel, 6x9 in rear deck along with that 8" sub. Judging from construction of the door and wiring configuration, this was the premium audio system offered in 01. Only option my car was missing was the 6 disc. Hope this clears up '01. I'll try to confirm the second Bose amp next time I work on my audio.

     

    As far as the wiring for my car, factory was great. They ran dual 18 guage all the way from the secondary trunk amp to the black enclosures in the doors. Wiring switched after that to 16 gauge in the attached factory harness connector directly to the mid driver. As far as I can tell, there is no crossover point for any speakers built into the OEM amp. The small wiring to the tweeter won't matter as higher frequencies aren't much affected by resistance in wire size. I was pretty pleased with using the factory wiring, saved me the headache of trying to run aftermarket wire through a Molex plug. Overall, Mazda did a great job on electrical for this car. I had planned on re-running the main wiring of my millenia, but after figuring up voltage drop with my Fluke meter, total voltage drop from the battery to all other major connections was only .1 to .2.

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