Jdubs99
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Posts posted by Jdubs99
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*shifty* I wonder about changing that 4k rpm point down to 2.5.
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Lat, just gut it. Get a regular phone cradle and install the exterior speaker in that console. Most OEM radios don't a mute input circuit anymore due to changer options, GPS, Aux inputs, and Ipod integration. You'd just have to turn down the radio when you recieve a call. Either that, or switch to an aftermarket that has a mute input. Kenwood still has this input circuit i believe.
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What's wrong with Snow white pearl and sand?
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The buildup of that cake around the contacts is slow. It took 7 years for enough to build up to affect the electrical connection.
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Closest thing on photobucket without uploading a pic.
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Originally posted by "mazda-fla"
You remove the plastic cover around the steering column. Then remove and install the new one. Only a couple of screws to remove the plastic cover around the column, a couple of bolts for the motor, and a wiring harness. Doesn't require removing the steering wheel or airbag. Shouldn't be that hard to change.
In addition to the motor, there is also a tilt relay, tilt switch, and tilt sensor (the thing you insert the key into). So if your tilt wheel doesn't work it is most likely a bad motor, but replacing the motor is not 100% guarenteed to fix the problem, because it could be one of the other components. If the manual up-down lever works fine and it is just the auto-tilt not working, then it is probably the tilt relay, tilt switch, or tilt sensor that is bad. However, if both the manual up-down lever and auto-tilt are inoperative, then it is most likely a bad motor.
I haven't actually changed one, but I got the instructions on how it works and how to change it because I was going to change mine because mine broke in "truck driver" position. However, I eventually got mine into a confortable position by messing with the manual lever over a period of a few days, then just turned off the auto tilt. So, mine is permenentally broken in the right spot.
The "manual lever" is not what you are thinking. It is the little up-down lever next to the auto tilt button. You manually raise and lower the steering wheel (as oppose to automatically letting it raise and lower). However, the "manual lever" still uses the electric motor to raise and lower the wheel. It is not a true manual (mechanical) way to raise and lower the wheel like other cars use, it is electric
* Short of removing the entire dashboard, unfortunately drilling holes was the best method I could see. A few beige, gray, or beige painted friction pops shouldn't remove much of the class from this repair. I highly doubt the motor is bad. I disassembled the entire motor to get to the root of the problem. When the key is inserted, it triggers a relay that sends 12v+ to two contacts that make direct contact with a combination shaft/gear/inductor. The contacts get caked with a combination of grease and oxidized metal. Smells heavily of atmosphere when disassembled. This is why the "beat the shit out of the steering wheel" method works. It causes friction in a different direction that dislodges some of the metal cake. 20 careful minutes of metal brushing and spray silicon got the copper contacts back into like new condition. My tilt steering works every time now, and faster than ever.
It also explains why no amount of beating on the wheel in winter would make the motor begin to function. Cold temps would make that metal cake on the contacts more dense.
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Closest thing i could find to a milly on photobucket with these wheels...
I never heard of PIAA making anything but driving lights until I saw an RX8 with these at work. As with most wheels, the pics don't do them justice.
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This still floating around? I'll buy it come Friday.
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I'm guessing it's the white one?
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Still available?
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Man, this sounds bad all around. At least you aren't injured too bad.
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I've wanted the PIAA Super Rozzas for awhile, and it looks like someone finally made a knock off. I'm starting to get leaks from the OEM S wheels due to chrome peeling. These are half the price, and while not as light as the real deal, should be relatively light due to design. Opinions?
Real Deal
Knock off -
First octane, and now oil changes... Anyone have an authoritative article on this topic as with that thread?
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Epic = one of those action camcorders taped to the front of a kart.
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Incomplete burn of fuel due to ignition system suffering from low voltage?
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Tis true. Bad termination and low voltage are another maintenance issue that most people don't think about. I spent half a day when i bought my car to make sure there were no huge voltage drops in the major electrical connections. The 2nd gen RX-7 had some really bad issues with cold solder joints on many boards and relays, as well as a weak electrical system.
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Ren has already described the process, just a matter of someone getting the cams and a way of getting past the ECU, probably best addressed with a completely adjustable unit and dyno. It's basically a matter of eliminating Miller for Otto. If Ren is correct, I question the ability of the tranny to handle the amount of power he is projecting. I'm about a year out from my Milly becoming a project car unfortunately, hopefully this theory can be tested by someone sooner.
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Bah, wish I was there.
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I will be at '09, although I'll be farther away. Unless.....everyone likes Florida....and I volunteer to organize.
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I'm either honored or sad to be the thread ender a lot of times.
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I'm pretty sure it will eventually, just needs some donor parts and Ren's spare time.
The Milly Is Totaled...
in Millenia / Eunos 800 / Xedos9
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Not easily replaced if they are LEDs. Joining the spoiler club, eh?? Be prepared to eat your words with salt and ashes
. My spoiler was replaced because the last owner was a jackass, and patching a hole the right way through double wall sheet metal is damn near impossible. Big props to BHR for finding my spoiler BTW.