cuto
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Posts posted by cuto
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I think they dont have cams in that engine in the vid.
24 valves, working in the rear bank for hours, lots of special tools, air tools, and who knows what will go wrong. And once you get there you would also wanna do the valve adjustment. Besides the piston rings are also not good on mine. This is definitely not a DIY job.
Agreed. Its time to ride till the milly dies. And feed him oil!
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Valve covers are common to leak, but the valve seals themselfs? I would just keep an eye on the oil level, that way you can see how much oil your actually losing.
Yes valve seal leakage is a very common problem. And NO i dont think it's worth it in my case. Too many labor. It's a PITA of a job on the miller. The downsides are oil consumption (not very costly) and maybe getting your cats ruined.
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My understanding was that oil somehow leaks through the supercharger when the engine is off, which is then burned upon startup. My Eunie died over this issue so I hope you have better luck.
I don't see how the leak could occur with the engine off. Seals on the SC are located at the bearings, which means that leakage should only occur under pressure. There is no gravity pulling the oil down like with bad valve seals.
Seals prevent horizontal leakage. But maybe i'm dead wrong.
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Yup. This is why I said most people.
But then, if most people kept their cars in a coma...
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Haven't heard about the heavy duty grease, but PSE when doing the 1200-1800 dollar rebuild (depending if you supply the core) should clen it out, inspect fins, replace all seals and change out/service bearings
Here's the quick fix:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread....arger-quick-fix
It's a drastic measure as oil feeds were blocked and SC lube relies only on the heavy duty grease. But...its worth a shot on a dying SC.
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The tranny in the S is very strong, only know of 2 failures in the whole history of MW. 1 of which was a freak thing.
It's not HARD to change out the supercharger, but it does take alot of time and labeling where everything goes.
Question - Is yours a 4WS model?
Nope. As for the SC, i've read so many things about it. Including that PSE only cleans the gunk out and they are good to go. Also read somewhere that a guy solved his problem by packing heavy duty grease on the SC bearings. The car just stopped smoking. My engine is running fine and i'm only putting 5.000 miles a year on the car. With luck the cats and the SC will last a couple of years more. Sure its burning a quart of oil every 600 miles, but 1800 dollars can buy a whole lot of oil.
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rebuilt superchargers aren't that badly priced if you can do the work yourself
I can change the PCV valve. Thats how qualified i am!
I will simply ride it till it dies on me. After that it will serve me as a rebate on a new car. I'm not gonna throw 1800 dollars on a PSE SC and have a tranny fail on me after. Anything can go wrong after a guy starts putting money on a car that simply has no value here.
Edit: gonna try and buy a Subaru Legacy with 165 HP, LPG converted (factory fitted). Car has 40 K miles and is imacculate.
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One thing puzzles me: everyone states that smoke at startup = bad supercharcger. Well, if the supercharger is sucking up oil, shouldn't the car smoke ALWAYS?
Exactly! I am burning oil and it is the leak from valve seals. Piston rings are not perfect either. Keep the car sitting for a week and it smokes like crazy. The oil slowly leaks from the valve seals down to the cylinder. you can see this happening with the evident oil burning at some cylinders when doing a spark plug change. If it was S/C all cylinders should have burned oil on the plug.
There is no easy way, changing the valve seals is expensive labor. And changing the rings is impossible. (Better buy a new engine).
I couldnt pass smog check here and couldnt register the car. All because of the oil burning IMO. If I pass this year with some magic trick I am gonna drive it 2 more years till the next smog and then sell to junk yard.
Hi Saint. I know all about your problems. Been reading on them! I bet the issue are the damned valve seals. I hope so anyway! Thats a minor problem to me. Car passes smog check here as long as the engine is warmed up to normal temperature.
In my quest i tried some Liqi Moly additives (the only ones in the whole world i can trust).
For leaking valve seals i used this (still waiting on results, BUT the car stops smoking a lot faster now)
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...voiladb=web.nsf
For cylinder and rings i'm gonna use this one next:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...voiladb=web.nsf
And as a final cut:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...voiladb=web.nsf
This last one performs miracles on some engines. I saw it with my own eyes. In fact i have seen au Audi 1.8 somking like a train. Engine was a used one as the owner just blew the original. After pouring that Ceratec , and letting the engine idle for about an hour the smoke just stopped.
I bought all those and i'm dumping the Ceratec in next month. Just gonna put 300 miles on the car for the other additives to take effect.
But i will rest only when i check that IC.
Also: im gonna change from 5w30 to this one:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...ent&land=DE
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Hey....Hey!!! i'm still alive but i bring some bad news.
After 4 good years and some major money thrown at the car, i think she is starting a slow death.
And im not a happy camper. Not after having all 4 struts rebuilt a month ago and having bought 4 new tyres.
My car has started to smoke at startup. It smokes for 6 or 7 seconds and stops. No smoke after that. Came to the obvious conclusions. Either piston rings, head gasket, leakage from stem valves or....THAT supercharger failing.
I can rule out the head gasket as the car does not lose any coolant at all. Coolant looks clear as crystal water also. Car is burning over a quart of oil every 1.000 Km. regular like a clock.
Gonna get the front IC out and check for oil in it.
One thing puzzles me: everyone states that smoke at startup = bad supercharcger. Well, if the supercharger is sucking up oil, shouldn't the car smoke ALWAYS?
To wrap it up: if it's the SC, i will part the car or ride it till it dies on me. Not gonna spend money on ebay for used ones. Unless some trustee soul gives me a pointer on a good one!
That said: life sux!
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Great news cuto. As usual, dealer is wrong and mw is right. If you had an obd2 it wouldnt take that long. I still advise you to find a way to read the codes thru diagnostic code for future.
Once again welcome back to roads
Thanks Saint
. In fact i can read the codes, just not obd2 coz the Xedos doesnt have it. Mazda read the codes... they said....I guess that O2 sensor error was from the misfire itself.
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Yes you did my friend! But i was scared nonetheless. In 2 years time ill be giving you the Xedos!
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THE END OF THIS STORY:
I hate MAZDA.....
...Dealerships!!!!!!!!!
THE CAR IS RUNNING LIKE NEWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!
Sorry bout the caps guys!!!! It was a coil (or 2). Got the coils 2 days ago. Just got back from the mechanic that changed all the stuff before (timing belt, sparks). It took him 2,5 hours to change all 6 coils (fast learner!!!!!). The car is NOT missing a beat!!!!! No more noises ...no more hesitations. SHE runs like NEW.
OMFG im THAT happy i could fuc** that tailpipe!
Fuel consumption reached 16 L/100 in city...After i picked the car up the trip computer says, 9.1 L/100! I gave the engine a real kick coz an ML 320CDI was flashing me uphill...Know what? Kicked the Xedos pedal to the metal and...bye bye Merc! i took the foot off the pedal as soon as the tach read 235 km/h... GUYSSSSS!
THE XEDOS IS ALIVEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!
Thank you all!
BTW: ill be testing all my old coils and will post how many were dead.
Happy smileeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.....
P.P.S.: tomorrow ill be paying a visit to that Mazda dealership and im gonna rub that bad conrod in their faces!!!!
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"He hoped and prayed that there wasn't an afterlife. Then he realized there was a contradiction involved here and merely hoped that there wasn't an afterlife."
Douglas Adams
Im also hoping...
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Oh well: coils are on the way, shipped from USA on the 15 only (coz of blizzards), tracking number says it left USA already
Detailed Results:
Bullet International Dispatch, February 19, 2010, 7:20 am, FOREIGN CENTERJERSEY CITY NJ 099
Bullet Arrival
Bullet Acceptance, February 16, 2010, 10:31 am, CAMDEN WYOMING, DE 19934
Bullet Electronic Shipping Info Received, February 15, 2010
Car is just the same, i keep driving it: if its a rod I want it to die on my hands. In a week or so i'll have good or bad news.
BTW: if its not the coils i'll be selling 6 used ones and 6 NEW ones!
:>
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Hope this is the problem:
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Car always used Mazda's Dexelia 5w30 oil (some say it's synthetic). Last change was about 1.000 Kms ago and Shell Helix Ultra VX 5W-30 was used.
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Did they (Mazda) perform an engine flush or do they claim new oil equals flush?
They claim that the last oil change, with a real better synthetic oil with better additives and solvents and yadda yadda, performed an engine cleaning, thus uncovering the knock...or worsening it.
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If its the engine...BHR will be getting the dashboard i guess...coz its scrapyard.
Im in a bad mood.
Cheer up! I've not read this entire whored out thread, but I'm with Saint on this one. Are you sure they actually changed the hydraulic tensioner, and not just the tensioner pulley? If a misfire is present, it should cause a code.
As for engine damage causing a knock, as in conrod issue;
1. Did your engine ever suffer from oil starvation?
2. Did your engine ever suffer from overheating and/or very low coolant level?
3. Did you severely neglect oil change intervals?
4. Did you on a daily basis thrash your car, even with a cold engine?
If your answer to those questions is no I have no further questions. These are tough engines. Supercharger failure- possibly. Engine internal damage- I bet you 100 euros it isn't IF your answer to the questions above is no.
And just for the record- worst case scenario; I don't think your car is a partout object sir. I'll buy her.
Hi X-man !
They changed everything timing belt realated: i saw the old parts...spark plugs and so on.
1. 2. 3. 4.
Not in my hands...i even changed oil last time (1.000 Kms ago) with Fully synthetic 50.000 Kms oil. Mazda says " See??? New oil... better oil (5w30 just like before)= engine flush = uncovered the knock".
First seller didnt have the coils. Still selling them but no coils available from Hitachi.
Yesterday bought from another seller on ebay. 6 new coils.
As for the car...the knock is always there. Car idles like a tractor...stutters a lot. It really feels like it is working on 5 cylinders.
As for the car...if it's the engine i won't bother getting a used one (saw one in UK and posted here at the forum a year ago..but i cant find another trusted used KJ). Currently i am now in search mode for a new car, just in case.
Cash for clunkers it's a pitty... but if the worse thing happens you will be the 1st to know.
P.S. In one and a half year i changed oil 3 times ( 26.000 Kms) but it ran . Always checking levels.
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UPDATE:
Just got back from Mazda: bad news!
Car has no codes...except for that O2 sensor the LED gave me. As for this code they say the sensor fails at idle but works ok under acceleration.
As for the noise: They say with absolute certainty that its a rod or piston connecting pin. Asked them why would the noise be there sometimes and sometimes not. Also why doesnt the noise Increase under load.
Answer: we had an MX3 with that same noise....it was the pin. Engine WILL die.
My mechanic says otherwise...he tells me the car stutters like theres a misfire, so coil it is. He also says that the knock is not like any piston or rod knock he ever heard.
Im waiting for the coils. If its the engine...BHR will be getting the dashboard i guess...coz its scrapyard.
Im in a bad mood.
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1 member is celebrating his/her birthday today
cuto(43)
Yea...Imma old tea bag.
Frank: I will be trying that test. Didn't think testing with a multimeter was any good coz of the reported hit and misses (read that it was 99% inaccurate). BUT maybe they were using a digital multimeter.
Cheers bud.
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http://allmazda.net/parts/XEDOS-9/AETA03/E1/1005%20A/
http://allmazda.net/parts/XEDOS-9/AETA03/E1/1100%20A/
KL0111312
15052100 AJUSA
75X93X9 CORTECO
75X93X9 R O.E.
81-53314-00 REINZ
81-53314-00 REINZ
9945N23001 JAPANCARS
BH3289-G0 NOK
M4645 MUSASHI
M4645/UE MUSASHI
N23001 JAPANCARS
NOK 75*93*9 L NMC
OS-107682N NMC
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Led only reads DTC codes i'm afraid. Up to code 99 http://codes.milleniatech.net/obdi/.
Gonna try Mazda...but hell...after o posted this i just bought 6 new coils from ebay. New coil is over 340 Euros here. Bought all six for $535.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWNX%3AIT
I definitely want the car to last me a few more years...it's a baby with 45.000 Miles.
P.S. i rented a Fiat Punto less than a year old. It was nice to drive it around town with a manual stick. Went to highway and it scared the shit outta me! At 120 Km/h the bugger felt like it was going at 200 KM! The trip back home with the Xedos (even a bit crippled) made my day. Boy...at 140 Km you feel like you're driving the Punto at 30 Km... This is a car that once you have had it, you won't forget it, even if sometimes you get a problem with it.
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Good and and bad news:
Got the car today, everything was replaced (by everything i mean the list bellow):
1- New timing belt kit, tensioner and idlers included.
2- New Spark Plugs.
3- New water pump.
4- All service belts.
Conclusion: car still does the same. It is misfiring for sure. You can hear the hesitation in the exhaust also (Tks Saint).
Now...as far as the mechanic sees it: the misfire of one or more cylinders causes the engine to jerk, the noise appears to be the Supercharger pulley (?) twitching. In fact you can see it jerk when misfire(s) happen.
Next bet: coils. I really don't know how to test them coz theres no OBD2 on the Xedos, it won´t show the codes has it would on the millenia my guess). Gonna try a Mazda dealer now...
Next : injector?
Good news: the mechanic was really into the car. To change all the coils he says he will need 3 hours. I saw him changing the rear spark plugs....WOW...i was amazed on how he knew what to so quick. Asked him how the hell he knew all the steps by heart. Answer: " If you really pay attention to what you are doing while taking an engine or whatever apart, mark the parts, cables, hoses etc. etc, it's easy to read the "crumbs" back to the correct path".
Oh..btw. This is the good news. I finally got a shop that can take care of that engine. The guy had a Bosh diagnostic UBER machine, no coil test available on that. (not for OBD1...it showed very few tests on this car, the same, i'm afraid i could pick up with my buzzer tester).
Gonna think if it's worth buying 3 coils to test...but i think next step is trying to get Mazda dealership to read the codes.
Long Time No See Or How My Xedos Is About To Die?
in Millenia / Eunos 800 / Xedos9
Posted
Sad but true: car is now dead. It was burning bout 2 litres of oil each 1000 kms. Cat just blew on me. RIP. Its Ford Ecoboost time.