mts Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Originally posted by "homeugene73" This is for the 1995 Millenia S type. Other years are similar. I replaced my timing belt for as cheap a cost as possible. Unless you can get parts for cheaper. Here is what I used to do the job. The only thing I am even remotely worried about is the timing belt tensioner. I did not replace it. The car has 120k miles on it. I am not really worried that it is bad. I checked its spec, and it says that you do not need to replace it unless it isnt within spec. (see pic1).It shows you where to measure from. Mine was at its lowest acceptable spec rate. (.5625") At mazda it is $185. Also see pic4 for specs. PIC1 So here is a list of what I bought and here is what I paid. This includes the tax. Timing Belt (beck/arnley) = $74 Water Pump (new) =$98 Thermostat (always replace this with new water pump) =$22 Steering Pump-Supercharger Drive Belt (Goodyear) =$36 Alternator-AC Drive Belt (Goodyear) =$32 Radiator Coolant = $20 (2 gallons) Gasket Sealer $10 (one tube)(did not buy thermostat gasket)($15 at mazda) Tools to do the job. and the difficult parts of the job. There were some tools I could not do the job without. One of them is a longer than normal 17mm socket to get the motor mount bolts. This obstructs the area in which you will need to get to the timing belt.(3 nuts). Second you will need a swivel type ratchet extension for those spots where you cant fit a ratchet and socket. I bought one and did the job, but 2 would be even better. Dont forget the long ratchet extensions as well. Youll need at least 15 inches of extension to use the swivel properly. I only used socket and ratchet for this job, with one exception. The timing belt covers will be impossible to get out unless you pull the engine. It is such a tight fit that when you go to take the rear cover away from its mounting spot it will require more clear- ance(see pic#3, where it says to cut top part of cover). I cut the timing belt cover to get it out. When pulling the rear timing belt cover, remove from under engine. In this same spot is a 10mm bolt that holds down the cover, which I could not get a socket and ratchet to. I had to use an open/closed end wrench to loosen and tighten it. The other thing is the steering pump pulley. I chipped a piece off of the edge to get it off from the steering pump. Dont be lazy remove the steering pump. The last thing I had trouble with was the Alternator belt tensioner bolts. Two of them are long and will not clear the frame without some means of modification. I cut the one that would not clear even if I raised the engine. The second one clears if you raise the engine. This means that you will have to remove the motor mount first. I used a hack saw to cut the bolt that wouldnt clear but you can drill a hole in the frame if you are savvy. This is the smartest way because you will have to drill the hole if you ever want to get that bolt in anyway. Drill the hole first so you can remove the bolt through the frame. I was thinking about doing a mod in which you dispose of the rear cut timing belt cover, and buying a new or used one and cuting it so when you put it back together you can take it apart without making it look unprofession- al. Here is what you would do. Look at pic#3. I cut it at the covers highest point so it would fit around the cam- shaft sprocket as you pulled it from under the engine. If you buy another after doing that(i put mine back on), than you can just cut it at the middle and put the top part on from the top of the engine, and bottom part from the bottom of the car. It should be cut nicely, and in a place not close to the bolt holes. It will look nice and flush. Next time you do your timing belt it will be cheap. Heres the great thing about this mod. You could also just cut the original at the middle if you are sure of yourself. Dont mangle the cover trying to get it out. Sheeeeeewwwwww, So when I put the timing belt on I read the manual. You too should read the manual. The best thing to do is put the rear cam timing mark about 1/8" or less further toward the front of the car because when the belt goes into tension it will move back. The front one is easier because you can give it a few tries, and see what it does after you put the belt in tension. I put it about less than 1/16" toward the back of the car. Keep in mind that you have to make sure the cams are in as much tension already with the top idler pulleys, this will give you less play when it comes time to put the belt in tension with the timing belt tensioner. I used a floor jack to raise the engine as well as put the timing belt tensioner pulley in tension. (careful) I DID NOT TAKE THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY OFF. I only took the timing belt tensioner off. This allowed me to remove and remount the timing belt tensioner as many times as I needed, so I could try to align the marks on the cam and crank. I used a mirror and sat my chest on the engine to line up the rear timing marks. Squeeze in through the hood and hood stand from the drivers side. I am sure that the camshaft position sensor will work if put it in only one way. I dont know if it will actually go in any other way. Some say it could be 180 degrees off. It seemed to me that it would only fit in one way. PIC2 TIMING COMPONENTS PIC3 TIMING MARKS PIC4 Here is the order of which I removed the parts to get to the timing belt. Remove the drive belts first(i cut mine) (pic5-#1) Motor Mount (part1) (not in pics) Alternator Belt Tensioner (hard to remove bolts) (pic5-#2) Crank Pulley(dont forget to line up the mark first) (pic5-#3) Radiator Hose (pic5-#4) Oil Dipstick (pic5-#5) Oil Pump Hose (pic5-#6) Water Pump Pulley (pic5-#7) Steering Pump Pulley(dont be lazy remove the pump)(pic5-#8) Water Pump(careful, coolant comes out, the bolts also hold down the motor mount -part 2- (if it seems like it doesnt want to come out, theres a metal tab holding it down.)(bend it, or youll have to take the whole engine apart) (pic5-#9) Motor mount (part #3) S/C and Steering Pump Tensioner. (pic5-#10) Oil Pump (pic5-#11) Timing Belt Covers. (pic5-#12) DO NOT TAKE THE TENSIONERS APART AT THE WHEELS, IF YOU INTEND TO USE THEM AGAIN. YOU WILL BREAK THEM. FIG 1 - REMOVAL PIC5 HERE IS A CLEARER PIC WITHOUT ALL THE ARROWS AND NUMBERS. PIC6 Dont get frustrated, try putting the belt in tension a few times before you close it all back up. Installation is the reverse of removal. Dont forget that 2 turns of the crank is 1 turn of the camshafts. Read the manual, turn the crankshaft 4 times to make sure all the marks line up. This is after you have put the belt in tension. If your engine light is on in the cockpit. You can reset it by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 30 seconds or more, then reconnecting it and depressing the brake 5 times or for 10 to 15 seconds. If you have an anti-theft audio system make sure to reset it if necessary. Read the manual. DO NOT LET IT GET PERMANENTLY DISABLED. DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY CABLES. YOU CAN BLOW UP OTHER ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS. THE RADIO WILL SURELY BLOW IF YOU DO THIS ONE TO MANY TIMES. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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