Fog Light Mod!

[mts]

Originally posted by "DJ Hellfire"

 

 

 

 

 

I searched around and saw that no one has posted the DIY for the fog mod so I'll post how I did mine. This is not 100% detailed with pics as I did not write this up during the install. Sorry if anyone gets lost as some parts might be unclear. Also, this is my way which is one of many ways to do this. So feel free to skip any step that you don't find necessary. I believe this is the easiest way to be able to convert completely back to stock if you sell the car. NONE OF YOUR STOCK WIRES WILL BE CUT IN HALF!

 

Everything you need can be purchased at Pepboys. Here is what you will need:

1 Pilot brand Aux light wiring kit with relay, fuse and switch $19.99

Wire cutters, strippers and crimpers

2 boxes of 14-16 guage T-taps from the fog light, automotive wire, and headlight bulb aisle $1.99 each

Philips and flat head screw driver

Socket Ratchet with a 7mm and a 10mm socket and short extension

Test light

Pliers

Flashlight

 

I think that's it. Now go get dirty!

 

Here is the wire kit diagram that we will be following.

 

1. Start by removing those 2 10mm screws holding on the coolant tank. This will release it from the body so that you can run the wire behind it. This will also be a good time to remove the parking lights that are right next to the headlights. There is one Philips head screw holding them on. Remove the screw and slide the light out, and then twist the bulb out of the light.

 

 

2. Run the longest part of the wires that is wrapped in the white insulation behind the coolant tank and under the coolant hose, then behind the passenger headlight under the headlight harness and out from the opening that the parking light covers when installed. Run the shorter end to the same spot on the driver's side. These are the wires that will connect to the fog lights and should now be sticking out of the spot where the parking lights go.

 

 

3. Now cut off those crappy connectors at the end of the black and white wires that will connect to the fogs and strip about ¼ inch of insulation off all 4 wires. Now open up 1 box of T-taps. Mine are red, but yours will be blue. Now take the connector closest to my pointer finger in the above pic and crimp one on each of the 4 wires you just stripped. Make sure the crimp is tight or else it may not make a solid connection. Also, make sure you are crimping the wire and not the insulation. Make sure the crimp is nice and tight and that you cannot pull the connector back off the wire with your hands.

 

 

4. This pic is looking down through the parking light hole. You are now looking at the top rear of the fog light housing. Run the wires from step 3 down through there to the back of the fog light housing on both sides of the car.

 

 

5. Now you have to gain access to the stock fog light wires behind the fenders. There are many ways to do this step. I did the mod at my job so I was able to use the lift to go from under the car comfortably. If you have no lift, just jack up the driver's side of the car and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Now remove these 4 7mm screws and try to fold back the under panel to expose the fog wires. You'll notice that a screw for the under body cover is still holding it in the way. Remove this screw and you shall have complete access. Or you can remove the front wheel and unclip the wheel well molding and gain access from the wheel well.

 

 

6. (This pic is to just show how these connectors work. When installed, they have wires connected to them). The stock fog light wires are thin pink (+) and black (-) that go to a harness that connects to the medium/thick white and black wires that run inside of the fog housings. We are tapping into the thin pink and black wires.

 

Locate the other parts that came in the T-tap box you just opened. You will now be using the ones closest to my palm in the step 3 pic. See how there is a metal "U" shaped thing in the middle? Place the pink wire inside the "U" and pull the t-tap closed making sure the wire stays inside the U (it won't stay closed at this point). While still holding it closed, squeeze it completely closed with your pliers. This will cause the sharp inside edges of the U to cut through the wire insulation and connect to the wire without cutting the wire in half. Also, the T-tap will be snapped closed. Do the same thing for the thin black wire. Now plug the Aux fog wires that you ran down here early into these T-taps. The white wire goes to the pink T-tap and black goes to black. They should connect like the above pic shows. If they don't stay connected, you have to make sure that the metal tab on the connector for the Aux wire is going into the T-tap. If it looks bent down towards the blue plastic shell, just bend it back to the middle with your flat head and plug it in. Ignore this if yours plugs in easily. Now you have made connection to the fogs. Don't put the panels back together yet just incase you need to track down a problem in the future.

 

Repeat steps 4, 5, and 6 for the passenger side. The passenger side will be a little tight because the washer fluid bottle will be in the way. Just wire tie the wheel well under panel to the control arm to hold it open and you'll get it!

 

 

 

7. (Optional) This step may be slightly different for the L model. Remove your MAF sensor. Then remove your stock intake box by removing the 3 10mm bolts holding it in. Grab the Pilot relay and bolt it to the spot in the pic (this spot is different in the L). Just remove that 10mm bolt, put the relay on the stud and put the bolt back on. Make sure you don't over tighten the bolt because it may break the relay mounting hole.

 

8. Run the wires under all of the stock stuff just like in this pic. You have to remove the driver's headlight to get the wires under everything. Now untangle all the wires and plug the harness into the Pilot relay.

 

9. You want to run the 3 pin plug to this area. I ran mine under some stuff so it kinda comes up from under the fuse box. It's not necessary but it looks clean. Do not go completely by how this pic looks at this moment. This is just where the end of the 3 pin plug should be at in this step. Now just let it linger there a while.

 

 

10. Now locate the 3 ground loops shown in the diagram. One is coming off the 3 pin plug and the other 2 are coming off the harness that plugs into the relay. Line up the 3 loops in your hand and wire tie the 3 of them together about an inch down from the loops. Now bolt them to the stock grounding location as shown in the pic. Just remove the 10mm bolt and add these to the existing ground and re-bolt. This way you won't have a ton of wires connected to your battery.

 

 

11. Now take the red wire that is coming off the 3 pin plug and run it out to the driver's side parking light hole like you did the wires in step 2. You can connect it to 1 of 2 wires, either the parking lamp power wire or the side fender marker power wire behind the fender. It is easier to just connect it to the parking lamp power, but the other way would be slightly cleaner. Choose which way you want and get out your test light. Pull the bulb out and turn on the parking lamps. Touch the test light to the bulb connections to see which one connects to the power wire. The test light will light up when you touch the right one. There will be a lot of red wire so just cut off what you don't need. Then connect the red wire to the power wire like in the pic. Or you can use the same T-tap connection method like in step 6.

 

 

12. Now take the switch that came with the wiring kit and tape the 3 pin plug end of the switch to the very tip of an un-winded metal hanger. Now fish it through this hole under the dash.

 

 

This is where it should come out at.

 

 

13. Once you get it through, plug it into the other 3 pin plug that you ran to the area in step 9. Now you'll notice that you have a ton of white wire coming off the 3 pin. The reason for the extra white and red wire is because the 3 pin connector was designed to be run into the car instead of kept under the hood, but it doesn't matter. Simply fold the white wire up and wire tie it to the red and black wire coming of the 3 pin. Now move the connector to where it is in the pic and stuff the bunch of wire down the side of battery like in the step 9 pic by pushing on the battery so that it separates from the strut tower and then push the wires down with your ratchet extension. Do not push them down with your screwdriver or else you may chafe a wire. Let go of the battery once you're done.

 

 

 

 

14. Now locate the white looped wire coming off the Aux fuse. This will connect to the + of your battery. I ran this wire in the loom with the amp power wire. Run it how you wish. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the + terminal on your battery and connect this white wire. Now reconnect your terminal, remove your stock fog relay, and test the lights. If they work, go to the next step, if not, trouble shoot by checking ALL of your connections.

 

 

15. Put everything back together (underbody panels, lights, intake system…). But leave the coolant tank unbolted for now. Wire tie the Aux wires to the coolant hose in the two spots pictured. I also added and extra wire tie behind the coolant tank to the hood latch cable but it was a pain to get at. Now bolt the tank back on.

 

16. Mount your switch here by running it under the dash and out the hole pictured or mount it where ever you want it.

 

17. Enjoy this!

 

I also forgot to mention something for the newbie guys. This DIY will also work on ANY car whos fogs only come on with the headlights. It's not only for Millenias and not only for Mazdas. This is also how to wire up aftermarket fogs on any car that didn't come with stock fogs. You just have to mount the fogs first.