mts Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 Originally posted by "JK autosports" For anyone who is interested... This is what it will cost you (from Trussville Mazda... the cheapest source for parts!): 1- kly1-18-s50 - knock sensor wiring kit $132.24 each 2- kl31-13111a - intake manifold gaskets $8.60 each x2 1- e301-15-287 - water bypass o-ring $1.40 each 2- klo1-15-591 - water pipe o-ring $3.40 each x2 Their Parts Department can be reached at: 800-240-2121 The knock sensor going bad is a common problem in 97+ L models... especially in 1998! Yes you have to drain the coolant in order to take the throttle body and intake manifold off... I've actually decided that I'll make a Tech guide out of this post, in case anyone has to do it some day... I'm taking pics to keep myself on track, so I might as well.... Day 1: The first step is to release your fuel line pressure. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. IF YOU DO NOT RELEASE YOUR FUEL LINE PRESSURE, IT IS VERY DANGEROUS TO REMOVE THE FUEL LINES. YOU CAN SERIOUSLY HURT YOURSELF. FUEL IS AT VERY HIGH PRESSURE WHEN THE CAR IS OFF. To release the pressure, you have to start your car, and then pull the fuel pump relay. After the car stalls, your pressure is released, and you can put the relay back in. Second, you should disconnect the negative (-) terminal of your battery and set it aside. Go on the car, and hit the brake pedal for a few seconds to let any leftover power get out of the system. Next, drain your coolant. Open this link, and print out the directions. They are from the Mazda Workshop Manual: Coolant Drainage Instructions Remove the intake tube by unscrewing the clamp on the throttle body, and on the Mass AirFlow sensor. You will also need to remove the vacuum hose connected to the tube. Remove the PCV valve from the Valve cover. It will pop right out. These are the ends of the two hoses. The PCV one will pull right off, and the vacuum hose is clamped on. Remove and label where each of the ignition wires go, ONE BY ONE. You will need to remove each of these harnesses, and label them if necessary. After all those harnesses are moved out of the way, the culprit is exposed!!!! That is the harness where the knock sensor plugs in. It is held to the side of the throttle body with a "slide-on" clip... This sensor is located on the airbox. You must unplug the harness since this is part of the intake manifold. Unplug the two harnesses on the distributer and move the wires out of the way same as above..... Remove the two top nuts and the two bottom bolts. The bolts have metal brackets attached to them. Leave them there, so you remember where they go. After that, remove the hose on top, and label it. Next you have to remove the bottom hose (DO NOT DO THIS BEFORE DRAINING YOUR COOLANT, OR COOLANT WILL SPILL EVERYWHERE!!!). Remove these two bolts to free the throttle body cable. On the back of the throttle body, there is another hose, and a wire harness. Remove and label both. Set the throttle body aside. Remove and label the two VRIS harnesses on the rear of the IM. It is important that you put them back in the same order! The white one is on the right, and the black one is on the left. End of day one. Ok well I couldn't sleep, so back to the garage I went, right after taking a shower! There's much more progress for day 1! The next step will be to remove the fuel lines (this is when you put your cigarette out!). Get a bunch of rags. A little bit of gasoline will spill out. Be sure to soak it up so it doesn't make a mess... You have to remove this long black harness from the intake manifold. Remove those two bolts. Also, you will have to unclip the wiring harness I circled. Make sure you label it! Be sure to unclip and label these wiring harnesses. This is also part of the harness... It is on the passenger side. Unplug the EGR Valve. It is not necessary to unbolt it because it is attached to the IM. Now we get to the good stuff!! There are a total of 13 bolts holding the manifold in place. Six of them hold the front runners down. The next 6 hold the rear of the manifold in place. After all this is done, it is time to lift the manifold up and out! It is a really tight fit so if it gets caught, give it a jiggle, and it will come right out. Not so fast! There will be a couple (2 or 3) vacuum hoses on the back that need to come off first. Be sure to label them! And here is where we end for the night. Ahhh the sweet smell of victory... for now! There is more work to be done, but the most demanding is over!!!! Pat yourself on the back Here is where the "bastard bolt" goes... It is easily visible once the IM is off. And there she is..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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