Timing Belt Replacement

[mts]

Originally posted by "homeugene73"

 

This is for the 1995 Millenia S type.

 

Other years are similar.

 

 

I replaced my timing belt for as cheap a cost as possible.

Unless you can get parts for cheaper.

 

Here is what I used to do the job.

 

The only thing I am even remotely worried about is

the timing belt tensioner. I did not replace it. The

car has 120k miles on it. I am not really worried that

it is bad. I checked its spec, and it says that you do

not need to replace it unless it isnt within spec.

(see pic1).It shows you where to measure from.

Mine was at its lowest acceptable spec rate. (.5625")

At mazda it is $185. Also see pic4 for specs.

 

PIC1

 

So here is a list of what I bought and here is what

I paid. This includes the tax.

 

Timing Belt (beck/arnley) = $74

Water Pump (new) =$98

Thermostat (always replace this with new water pump) =$22

Steering Pump-Supercharger Drive Belt (Goodyear) =$36

Alternator-AC Drive Belt (Goodyear) =$32

Radiator Coolant = $20 (2 gallons)

Gasket Sealer $10 (one tube)(did not buy thermostat gasket)($15 at mazda)

 

Tools to do the job.

and the difficult parts of the job.

 

There were some tools I could not do the job without.

One of them is a longer than normal 17mm socket to

get the motor mount bolts. This obstructs the area in

which you will need to get to the timing belt.(3 nuts).

Second you will need a swivel type ratchet extension

for those spots where you cant fit a ratchet and socket.

I bought one and did the job, but 2 would be even better.

Dont forget the long ratchet extensions as well. Youll

need at least 15 inches of extension to use the swivel

properly. I only used socket and ratchet for this job,

with one exception. The timing belt covers will be

impossible to get out unless you pull the engine. It is

such a tight fit that when you go to take the rear cover

away from its mounting spot it will require more clear-

ance(see pic#3, where it says to cut top part of cover).

I cut the timing belt cover to get it out. When pulling

the rear timing belt cover, remove from under engine.

In this same spot is a 10mm bolt that holds down the

cover, which I could not get a socket and ratchet to.

I had to use an open/closed end wrench to loosen and

tighten it. The other thing is the steering pump pulley.

I chipped a piece off of the edge to get it off from the

steering pump. Dont be lazy remove the steering pump.

The last thing I had trouble with was the Alternator belt

tensioner bolts. Two of them are long and will not clear

the frame without some means of modification. I cut the

one that would not clear even if I raised the engine. The

second one clears if you raise the engine. This means

that you will have to remove the motor mount first. I

used a hack saw to cut the bolt that wouldnt clear but

you can drill a hole in the frame if you are savvy. This

is the smartest way because you will have to drill the

hole if you ever want to get that bolt in anyway. Drill

the hole first so you can remove the bolt through the

frame.

 

I was thinking about doing a mod in which you dispose

of the rear cut timing belt cover, and buying a new or

used one and cuting it so when you put it back together

you can take it apart without making it look unprofession-

al. Here is what you would do. Look at pic#3. I cut it at

the covers highest point so it would fit around the cam-

shaft sprocket as you pulled it from under the engine.

If you buy another after doing that(i put mine back on),

than you can just cut it at the middle and put the top

part on from the top of the engine, and bottom part from

the bottom of the car. It should be cut nicely, and in

a place not close to the bolt holes. It will look nice and

flush. Next time you do your timing belt it will be cheap.

Heres the great thing about this mod.

 

You could also just cut the original at the middle if you

are sure of yourself. Dont mangle the cover trying to

get it out.

 

Sheeeeeewwwwww,

 

So when I put the timing belt on I read the manual.

You too should read the manual. The best thing to

do is put the rear cam timing mark about 1/8" or less

further toward the front of the car because when the

belt goes into tension it will move back. The front one

is easier because you can give it a few tries, and see

what it does after you put the belt in tension. I put it

about less than 1/16" toward the back of the car. Keep

in mind that you have to make sure the cams are in

as much tension already with the top idler pulleys,

this will give you less play when it comes time to

put the belt in tension with the timing belt tensioner.

I used a floor jack to raise the engine as well as put

the timing belt tensioner pulley in tension. (careful) I

DID NOT TAKE THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY

OFF. I only took the timing belt tensioner off. This

allowed me to remove and remount the timing belt

tensioner as many times as I needed, so I could try

to align the marks on the cam and crank. I used a

mirror and sat my chest on the engine to line up the

rear timing marks. Squeeze in through the hood and

hood stand from the drivers side. I am sure that the

camshaft position sensor will work if put it in only one

way. I dont know if it will actually go in any other way.

Some say it could be 180 degrees off. It seemed to

me that it would only fit in one way.

 

PIC2

 

TIMING COMPONENTS

 

PIC3

 

TIMING MARKS

 

PIC4

 

 

Here is the order of which I removed the parts

to get to the timing belt.

 

Remove the drive belts first(i cut mine) (pic5-#1)

Motor Mount (part1) (not in pics)

Alternator Belt Tensioner (hard to remove bolts) (pic5-#2)

Crank Pulley(dont forget to line up the mark first) (pic5-#3)

Radiator Hose (pic5-#4)

Oil Dipstick (pic5-#5)

Oil Pump Hose (pic5-#6)

Water Pump Pulley (pic5-#7)

Steering Pump Pulley(dont be lazy remove the pump)(pic5-#8)

Water Pump(careful, coolant comes out, the bolts also hold

down the motor mount -part 2- (if it seems like it doesnt want

to come out, theres a metal tab holding it down.)(bend it, or youll

have to take the whole engine apart) (pic5-#9)

Motor mount (part #3)

S/C and Steering Pump Tensioner. (pic5-#10)

Oil Pump (pic5-#11)

Timing Belt Covers. (pic5-#12)

 

DO NOT TAKE THE TENSIONERS APART AT THE WHEELS,

IF YOU INTEND TO USE THEM AGAIN. YOU WILL BREAK THEM.

 

FIG 1 - REMOVAL

 

PIC5

 

HERE IS A CLEARER PIC WITHOUT ALL THE ARROWS

AND NUMBERS.

 

PIC6

 

 

Dont get frustrated, try putting the belt in tension

a few times before you close it all back up.

 

Installation is the reverse of removal.

 

Dont forget that 2 turns of the crank is 1 turn of

the camshafts.

 

Read the manual, turn the crankshaft 4 times to

make sure all the marks line up. This is after you

have put the belt in tension.

 

If your engine light is on in the cockpit. You can

reset it by disconnecting the negative battery cable

for 30 seconds or more, then reconnecting it and

depressing the brake 5 times or for 10 to 15 seconds.

 

If you have an anti-theft audio system make sure to

reset it if necessary. Read the manual. DO NOT LET

IT GET PERMANENTLY DISABLED.

 

DO NOT CROSS THE BATTERY CABLES. YOU CAN

BLOW UP OTHER ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC

COMPONENTS. THE RADIO WILL SURELY BLOW

IF YOU DO THIS ONE TO MANY TIMES.