Fuel Filter Changing Guide

[mts]

Originally posted by "mazda-fla"

 

Tools Needed:

 

1. 10 mm open end wrench.

2. 10 mm deep socket.

3. Ratchet.

4. Ratchet extension.

5. Large pair of channel lock plyers, or large pair of vise grips, or large pair of regular plyers.

6. Phillips Screwdriver (for the 2.3 engine).

7. Flathead Screwdriver.

8. Small piece of wire to be used as a jumper wire.

 

Step 1: Remove the fuel-filler cap and release the pressure in the fuel tank.

 

 

Step 2: Remove the fuel pump relay. (In the 2.5, this is easy. The fuel pump relay is in the main relay box under the hood. Just open the box and unplug the relay).

 

The rest of the Step 2 instructions are only for the 2.3 Miller Cycle S.

 

Step 2a: Locate the Cruise Control Actuator near the firewall on the Driver's side.

 

 

Step 2b: Remove the three nuts holding the Cruise Control Actuator. The two in the front are 10mm hex, the one in the back is a phillips head screwdriver.

 

 

Step 2c: Push the Cruise Contol Actuator out of the way. You can lay in up near the windshield wipers.

 

 

Step 2d: Locate the Fuel Pump Relay. It is next to the grey Diagnostics connector. It is to the left and below the Diagnostics connector.

 

 

Step 2e: The Fuel Pump Relay has a rubber protective boot around it.

 

 

Step 2f: Peel back the protective boot.

 

 

Step 2f: Unplug the Fuel Pump Relay.

 

 

Step 3: Start the engine. Let it run until it stalls.

 

Step 4: After the engine stalls, crank the engine several times.

 

Step 5: Turn the ignition switch off.

 

Step 6: Reinstall the Fuel Pump Relay. Reinstall fuel fillter cap. For the 2.3, reinstall the Cruise Control Actuator.

 

Step 7: Disconnect the negative battery cable.

 

 

Step 8: Remove mat from trunk.

 

 

Step 9: Remove metal service hole cover.

 

 

Step 10: Flip the metal service hole cover over. Inspect the gasket. If the gasket is broken or deteriorated, replace the gasket or cover. Because it could leak carbon monoxide into the car if the gasket is bad.

 

 

Step 11: Remove the bracket that holds the fuel filter with a 10 mm deep socket and ratchet extension.

 

 

Step 12: Before removing the fuel hoses, look at the filter to determine what side is IN and what side is OUT. So you can install the new filter in the same direction.

 

 

Step 13: Remove the fuel hoses from the fuel filter with a big pair of plyers. If the hoses are stuck on the fuel filter, do not pull them with force. Get a flathead screwdriver, and put it in the corner of the end of the hose, then gently turn the screwdriver to crack the pressure holding the hose, and it will release the hose.

 

 

Step 14: Install new fuel filter and reinstall bracket.

 

Step 15: Verify that the fuel hoses are pushed fully onto the fuel filter nozzles. The fuel filter will have a hose stopper. Push the hose all the way until it contacts the stopper.

 

Step 16: Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

 

Step 17: Fuel Leakage Inspection. Some people may decide to skip this step. Use caution if you do this step, connecting the wrong data link connector terminals may possibly cause a malfunction. Carefully connect the specified terminals only.

 

Step 17 a: Make a small jumper wire out of a scrap piece of wire, by striping about a quarter inch off each end of about a one inch piece of scrap wire.

 

 

Step 17 b: Connect data link connector terminals F/P (fuel pump) and GND (ground) using a jumper wire.

 

 

 

Step 17 c: Turn the ignition switch to the on position (do not start car) to operate the fuel pump.

 

Step 17 d: Pressurize the system this way for at least 5 minutes to be sure of no leakage. Go back to the trunk and look at the fuel lines going in and out of the fuel filter. Make sure they are not leaking.

 

Step 17 e: This procedure will also prime the fuel system.

 

Step 17 f: Remove the jumper wire.

 

Step 17 g: If there is fuel leakage, correct the issue.

 

Step 18: Reinstall service hole cover, and reinstall trunk carpet.

 

Step 19: Installation complete.