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Tie-rod End Replacement Guide


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#1 The Only MTS

The Only MTS

    Evil Supremely Supercharged

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Posted 19 April 2006 - 11:56 AM

Originally posted by "Reality1011"



Well after working on my major upgrades, I decided to take some pics and do a how to guide. This is a very simple job to complete. One benefit of changing the tie-rod ends yourself is the ability to check out the tie-rod boot, which if ripped will NEED to be REPLACED. If the tie-rod boot needs to be replaced then you need to go back to the dealer for the part, which is about $60 @ :


http://www.trademoti...n&siteid=213989



The best way to tell if your tie-rod ends need to be replaced is to take it to a shop that does free estimates. You can also jack up the side and shake the tire if you suspect there is a problem. I would consider having a place confirm my suspections first. Please note that it is best to replace both tie-rod ends at the same time.



Procedure

Tools needed:


1- 13mm wrench
1- 19mm wrench
1- 21mm wrench
1- 17mm socket and 4" extension with appropriate ratchet
Needle nose pliers
hammer
crowbar, long metal pipe (something to use for leverage)
WD-40 (optional)



1. Loosen the lug nuts on the tires, jack up the car and put it on stands. You can do one side at a time but I thought this was the easiest way to work. If you have to replace the tie-rod end boots then you want the security of jack stands.

2. Remove the tires. Turning the Steering wheel helps allow better access to the tie-rod end.

Below is the tie-rod end. At the top of the rod is the beginning of the boot that you should inspect and replace if necessary
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3. Removing the Lock Nut on the end of the boot requires the 21mm and 19mm wrenches and the bar that you are using for leverage.

The actual Nut uses the 21mm Wrench:

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The Tie-rod end uses a 19mm wrench:

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Insert you bar for better leverage between the 2 wrenches. Make sure you have the 21mm wrench on the bottom side of the bar. Lift the bar up, forcing the 21mm wrench to the floor (you might have to hold the wrenches to prevent them from slipping):

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4. You should be able to move the lock nut by hand, or if needed by wrench. Point is it should be moving easier after breaking the initial seal to the tie-rod end.

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Take the 13mm wrench and connect it to the inner tie-rod and turn it to make sure you can easily remove the tie-rod. If there is tension in the wrench you might want to use some of the WD-40 to help free the connection.

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5. Pull the pin out from the nut that holds the tie-rod end nut to the wheel, using the needle-nose pliers.

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Use the 17mm socket, with ratchet and extension to loosen and remove the nut.

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6. Use the hammer and bang out the tie rod.

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Twist off the tie-rod end, you might need to prevent the tie-rod from moving using the 13mm wrench.

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7. Now is the time to make sure that the boot is not ripped. If it is then you need to replace it. You cant used something that is not new because the clamps on the inner most part of the boot are a 1 time only clamp. I replaced one of mine but I didnt take pics. This is what I had to do... remove the old boot, I removed the little clamp and then used a blade to cut the boot in half. I used a pair of wire cutters to cut and remove the inner clamp. Grease the inside of the new boot with all purpose (black) grease. Put the inner clamp on the tie rodboot on the tie-rod. Getting the end of the boot onto the Rack was a little tricky but I got one part on then I rotated the boot and kept constant pressure on the boot. Once you get the boot onto the rack, you need to tighten the clamp. Fold the clamp piece over and bend the tabs that keep the piece to the clamp. Now connect the little clamp to the boot. Done...

8. Wrapping everything up:

reconnect the Tie-Rod end to the Tie-rod, twist it so the tie-rod end is on the tie-rod. As you twist the Tie-rod end on check the part that connects to the wheel, when you can insert it in the hole... do so. Hand tighten the nuts onto the ball-joint and the tie rod end.

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Now FULLY tighten the nut on top of the ball joint with the 17mm socket, ratchet and extension and put the pin in...


Fully Tighten the Lock nut on the tie-rod end. I tighten it by hand first, with the wrentches and then I used the bar for more leverage.



YOU ARE GOING TO NEED AN ALIGNMENT AFTER THIS THE STEERING IS GOING TO BE OFF

Mazdaworld Federation - Enforcer
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Sadly sold to another.... but I am still the same prick.

QUOTE(Saint @ Oct 14 2008, 12:26 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Frankzao @ Oct 13 2008, 09:06 PM) View Post

BHR has not learned that driving a milly can also be fun........he still thinks it can't tow, remember?


Tow? He thinks it is made of sugar and melts in the rain :)