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///BHRpowered

Forefathers
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  1. The years continue to pass, yet like BHR the Millenia exists outside of time thanks to its capsule. 18 years of near constant use now. The plastic is still pliable though impossible to clean to be clear. I added a 2nd one and side by side you can really tell where dust and grime over the years have become embedded - yet the car is still perfect. As stated earlier I've replaced the power supply and fan. Only fan failed. Filter gets cleaned every other year and seems to still be holding up on the interior. Exterior capsule the filters have become a bit more brittle and need to be replaced after 6 years or only being used Nov through Apr. I'll still caution people, these are NOT for daily use and I think after over 25 years the company has finally admitted this. They are difficult to put on and off especially with suv's. 2 people makes a huge difference. Paint damage is still top concern, no matter what, the surface will get dust/dirt/grit on it and if pulling over the surface you'll damage it and I refuse to just "buff and cut" What works for me is a very soft interior only cover being put on first, then the capsule being rolled over top. The protection and peace of mind is worth every penny. I don't worry about a thing. After a bad year with mice getting into 2 other cars it's a relief to not worry about much more rare cars.
  2. Maybe a bump? now at 15 years. I've added an outdoor capsule for the Jeep WL during winter months. In the past 5 years I had to replace the power supply as the plastic cracked and it wanted to spark, more my fault really. A single fan needed replacement but this could have been due to running it a season without a filter - The new design filters are only good for a few years, old ones were much better. What I will say is the indoor capsule has yellowed in a few places but all the dust and grime that floats in the air is starting to be noticeable. I tried pressure washing the outdoor capsule with only mixed results. Still does its job I cannot stress this enough, I highly recommend putting a car cover over the car FIRST and then the capsule. You can remove cover if needed but it goes a long way in protecting paint during covering/uncovering.
  3. Well well well. It's done. Thanksgiving 2019 I finished the silver Millenia, and 2 weeks ago I finally did the black Millenia. Very rare to have it out of storage, good weather, and the time. Whats interesting is how different it was. The silver Millenia clearly had someone in their before with 2 lines crossed and just different routing. I didn't really notice until I did the black millenia which was much tighter, all clips still intact etc. Had the whole thing done in about 4 hours, wasn't rushing but went smooth. Should now be good for 30-50 years more
  4. Well well, In just 3 more weeks MW.net will have its 10 year anniversary.... That being said, I'v had the Millenia in a carcapsule for 10 years now, some people have asked about it over the years so here's what you need to know. Pro's - Keeps the Millenia spotless and clean, not a spec of dust or single inspect since its positively pressurized. Removed moisture from air Set it and forget it, zero maintenance required Material has held up very well, no rips, tears or sign of degrading materials Has prevented damage to car by falling objects from earthquake Far superior to even a high end custom cover Con's - Not very easy to get on and off, have had to buff mirrors and rear spoiler where it's rubbed paint Fan went out around the 7 year mark, ordered a replacement and it has been fine since Zippers, possibly biggest complaint is the poor quality zippers and how hard it is to seal up. Have ripped apart several of these and 1 zipper currently damaged to where I cannot open capsule. Yellowed/faded/cloudy. Not really possible to clean and once its dirty it just stays that way. Used in a windowless garage yet still shows fading. Being hard to get on and off it's annoying if you want to do work on vehicle Overall, possibly the single best investment I'v made for any vehicle, ever. So if you've been on the fence for the past 10 years, go get one.
  5. Thinking that either this spring or fall I may start on changing out all the vacuum lines to upgrade to the custom Miller-cycle green silicone lines. Any idea on timeframe for this? May of course add another Millenia to the fleet as well so both would need to be done
  6. Stumped a bit and need some mazda input. Working on getting a 1995 (no OBD) 626 4-cyl 2.0 5=spd in top shape. For awhile it was having a bad skipping/misfire under heavy acceleration, spark plugs were pretty new so changed the wires with a brand new set, after that the car ran terribly, very rough, maybe only running on 2-3 cyl, way down on power etc. Messed around with it and when using all the old wires and replaced just cyl 2 it stopped skippping but is still running a bit rough. Also down on MPG, dropped from 35mpg on highway to about 30. If replace the old wire it skips but runs smooth with not. I'm thinking the wires are defective since a brand new set shouldn't be garbage, but should I be looking at anything else?
  7. Need a tank for a project, if anyone is parting out please let me know.
  8. http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPag...rameter=news130
  9. *Shield your eyes, its very hard to look at one in this condition, this is why I have undertaken the task of restoring its former pre-ghetto rat glory* 1997 2.5 L, 112k. Interior is in fairly excellent condition all things considered, just needs a good cleaning, and drivers carpet has oil stains from where spark plugs were sitting. Exterior is in good condition all things considering, just 1 problem with the door as pictured, and the window 2 flat tires, 1 wheel missing all together, another tire vastly over inflating or belts have seperated. Car is unlocked, valve cover screws and spark plugs are sitting on floor in drivers seat, random trash, and pine smell from cheap cab air freshener thingys. Engine bay - Valve cover is removed and set aside, plugs and wires have been removed, dipstick has some sludge on it (as expected), transmission fluid is still good in color, coolant is slightly brown, but not milky. Based on what has been removed I assume there is a bent rod somewhere, which one the 2.5 I can fix. My goal is to drain all fluids, period. refill all fluids, replace valve cover, plugs, plugs etc. try to turn car over with fresh fuel, run for a few minutes, add oil cleaner, then drain again, then put in truely fresh oil and new filter. From there get an extra rim, but on some decent tires all around, rotors must be changed but I still have my old ones. Aside from that, which will be alot of work, I can get it started, see what if any other problems it has, check for codes etc. if all checks out, put a new battery in, bhr detail the interior and exterior and I have another fully functioning millenia. *If this does not work out, or engine has serious problems, I will simply part out the car* Now you may be asking how I got this, especially for only 25 dollars. well, car had been abandoned for almost a year that I alone know of, I filed the paperwork to claim it, county impounded it and wanted to sell at public auction, but because it was undriveable simply assigned title to me. I just need to rent a u-haul trailer with a manually winch, slap on my millenia's spare, get it on a trailer, tow home with jeep, and set up a car tent in the yard for it.
  10. Ok, as some will remember I had been trying to track down alot of info on the "Amati 1000" Now, today I received a packet of info from mazda, as well as doing some more research I have come across some things interesting, some extremely odd things I'll start with the odd, apparently mazda does NOT own the patent for the rotary engine. Apparently the autounion seen here [attachmentid=200] was made up of Horch, NSU, DKW, and Wanderer. Audi bought NSU in 1969 after the Ro80 hoovered up all their money. They original developed it all together, now I highly highly doubt mazda is paying royalities, but none hte less interesting Next we shall discuss the Mazda 12 cyl engine, and what an amazing peice of work. Sadly my efforts to track down a working prototype have not yielded 1, BUT, according to what I received todaysame 500 for built for testing and reliabilty studies, The engine itself pictured here, [attachmentid=201] Mazda's 3981cc 12-cylinder engine in W configuration; having 3 banks of 4 cylinder (much like VW's W12). This engine was shown at the 1989 Tokyo motor and was intended for Mazda's Amati luxury brand that never materilized. The engine was limited to 280hp and 274lb-ft of torque because of the Japan's gentleman's agreement, but keeping in tradition of Mazda's unique engine design history (rotary, miller cycle, etc) they decided to go with the W-configuration for their 12 cylinder. While the block is aluminum, the rest of the engine is mostly magnesium, and most interesting was that the cylinder was ceramic, and valves aluminum-Ceramic. Very ground breaking for the time. Now from here the path splits. First is ford, because they have a large STAKE!!!! BUT DO NOT OWN THE COMPANY!!! there have been talks within mazda that the W12 built by mazda was going to end up in some 07 and 08 models of there higher end cars, including the ASTON MARTIN!!!! apparently executives at ford were impressed with the engine not only for its performance once the 280-hp limitor was removed (See gentlemans agreement), but the engine being so compact and lightweight was a great advantage. Currently there are no plans due to the price of oil Now here's where I can't decide if I'm pissed off or not, because of this history with audi the w12 didn't quite die, instead it was revamped, redesigned, and more or less reinvented, but with mazdas thinking behind itfor a concept car known as the audi avus. It you look in the back corner of the wall you can see the design of the engine. Now apparently there were rumors that VW slapped together 2 v6's to compete with mazda which had designed a totally new engine. [attachmentid=202] I believe this design was scrapped for being to complex and too heavy, with the three separate heads and all related hardware..(had mazda done it who knows) That being said- this W 12 seems more like an overly complex engine made specifically just for bragging rights- for advertising purposes to get people's attention- that because it was the best engine for that type of vehicle. Considering that in the late 80s Mazda had some very solid inline four bangers that could take boost, all they had to do was use that design with two banks of cylinder. The OHC 12 valve 2.2 engines easily made 190lb-ft of torque in stock tune (and more horsepower than advertised). A 300hp/350lb-ft 4.4 turbo V8 based on that design should have been more than enough smooth power for a luxury sedan of the time. Crap, that's even good numbers for a sedan today. Now granted I feel a modern designed miller-cycle engine pushing 3.5 L and the same S/C would be 330-350hp in v6 form, however again, this was the late 80's I have saved the best for last. These were the only photo's I could track down, they are rough drawings and concepts, but you can see the millenia in there all. The top 2 phots are of the amarti 1000 and I'm told that the bottom is the amati pegasus, which became the amati 550, which became the millenia, I'm told that this concept drawing was done in 1986
  11. Originally posted by "milly" I had a '95 Mazda Millenia S and now have a '00 Mazda Millenia S. The problem is that the previous owner of my '00 decided to just change the speakers and leave the old head unit thus ensuring the worst of both worlds (i.e. underpowered amp for high-impedance polyurethane speakers). I'm changing out the aftermarket speakers for the original paper-cone Bose since the sound is much more natural for the type of music I listen to regularly. The problem I'm running into is that there doesn't seem to be a lot of information (especially not in one place) about the various revisions of the Bose system in the Mazda Millenia S from '95-'02; this makes finding replacement speakers from someone other than the Mazda dealer (who wants $400-$600/speaker) quite a task. I thought I'd post what I know and maybe a couple of other people can follow-up and correct my assumptions or add detail; maybe this could be the basis for an FAQ? IIRC the '95 Bose had a slightly different setup than my '00, and from what little info I can gather there were three revisions to the system: '95-'96: Bose head unit (watts?) w/o CD player, changer option in trunk. Rear speakers are 6x9" and front speakers are component with ~1" tweeter near the side mirror and either 5.25" or 6.5" mid-range in the front lower door panel. '97-'00: Bose head unit (watts?) w/CD player in dash, (changer option in trunk?) Rear speakers are 6x9" (same speakers as '95-'96?) and front speakers are tweeter in dash (size?) and either 4" or 4.5" in the front lower door panel (AFAIK not the same door speakers as '95-'96). '00-'01: Bose head unit w/6-disc CD player in dash. Rear speakers are 6x9" (same speakers as '97-'00?) and front is some sort of arrangement of 4-6 more speakers. Also, (10"?) subwoofer in the rear deck. Also, as far as I know, all the speakers are 2 ohm and are amplified; not sure if the amplifier is *in* the speaker or contained seperately. As far as replacement is concerned my understanding is that replacement of 2 ohm with aftermarket 4 ohm speakers will cause an ~3dB loss of output. Also, head-unit can be replaced with aftermarket double-DIN models with the use of an adapter. Best way to solve Bose speaker problems is (1) to attempt repair, which can often fix common problems with wiring and (2) to contact salvage yards like mazdarecycling.com and mazmart.com for what you need; assuming the information above gets solidifed this could be the way to go...
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