Front End Checks And Important Information

[mts]

Originally posted by "Gripdog"

 

when turning I hear a popping on the passenger side, kind of sounds like an axle, but the damn thing is less than two years old, not out of the question though, I have 118k miles. I think the ball joint is rotten, is 78 bills a side a good deal, and what is this i've heard lately about lateral links sounds like a pretty cheap easy fix, what are the symptoms if they are bad. Lastly my axles have a lifetime warranty so while changing the ball joint and possibly the lateral links, I will replace the axle just in case(boot is not ripped). Anyone who has had similar symptoms please respond and tell me what the outcome was?

 

 

 

Originally posted by "ken inn" ball joint list price is 61.70, with discount, 44.40/ea. the lateral links usually make noise when going straight. i would suspect cv joint, dont matter how new the axle is, if they are reman, lots of places do lousy jobs.

 

Originally posted by "Renboy"

 

Jack up the front end and see if you can wiggle the wheels. If it moves with your hands at the 9 & 3 o'clock then it's the tie rods (either inner or outer), at 12 & 6 it's your ball joint, and finally at 1:30 & 7:30 it's the lateral links.

Axles generally only click when you're accelerating quickly, and especially when accelerating around corners. They don't click when you are just coasting, ever.

 

Originally posted by "Gripdog" yeah they don't pop or click when i'm accelerating straight, but now i hear it when im not even accelerating quickly, turn the wheels go and that fucking noise, think i'll change the axle first since it will be free, what tools will i need to do this myself, I have the basics but what might i need as far as pin or clip removal?

 

 

 

Originally posted by "ken inn"

 

air impact to get the main nut off. that sucker is on there with like 250 ft/lbs, or some mondo amount. good size prybar, if you do the sway bar end link method, you need a 5mm allen.

 

 

 

Originally posted by "mazda-fla"

 

 

 

You can forget about trying to remove the main nut unless you have an air impact hammer or a really, really, long breaker bar. You also should use a socket made for air tools or a special socket made for removing that nut (you can borrow that from most local autoparts stores that have a loaner tool program) the color of the socket will be black. Don't use a regular chrome socket. There is so much presure that will be needed to remove that nut that you could shatter the regular chrome type socket set. Also, it is a good idea to put on a pair of safety googles when removing that nut, in case the socket shatters and metal starts flying.

 

When you reinstall that nut, don't use air tools. You have to use a long breaker bar or torque wrench, with the wheel's center cap removed, and wheel and car on the ground (not jacked up). Otherwise the shock of the air tool and wheel turning will damage the new CV joint and cause it to wear out prematurely.