Kat_Daddy Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 I been having problems with my milly idling at stop lights since she got back on the road. Sometimes i have to throw it in neutral and gas it to keep it from dying. I thought maybe the gas had went bad from sitting for 8mnths or so. I put that engine treatment stuff in and it works fine then. But when it runs off regular gas (even the good stuff), i still have the same problems a tank and half later. I went to autozone and they let me use the reader. heres the codes... 1) P0306 Cyl #6 Misfire 2) P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 or #1 Sensor 3) P1170 Manufacturer Fuel Air Metering 4) P1173 Manufacturer Fuel Air Metering I was thinking change the spark plugs, but it may be more to it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 The fuel metering could be a result of the others... but also has been attributed to one or both of the vacuum Ts leaking... Sounds like No.6 cylinder is not firing due to bad coil or bad plug.... this maybe leading to engine knock, as the O2 sensors may be trimming the fuel ratio due to raw fuel coming out the exhaust? Ren? But indeed change your plugs, I was getting bad hesitation from 2000-3000 rpm and it was all in the plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Daddy Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 How can i determine if its a bad coil or bad plug. The guy at Autozone told me the same thing. That it could be sumn causing that plug not to fire correctly.... Which plug is the #6 anyway. I have the 2.5L btw.... Dont take offense MTS, its just ren is the guy that i see peeking in to the technical posts. And he's done the most milly engine work that ive seen. Thanks for yoru response... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 You have the 2.5.... my bad. No coil packs on each plug.. Maybe you have a bad plug wire? or plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I'm with MTS on this. First find out why you're missing. #6 is the front right cylinder (radiator drivers side). Pull the plugs and wires, and check the condition of the cap/rotor. If you put new plugs/wires on and it's still missing, do a compression test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Daddy Posted June 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 save the whoring till after the milly's fixed pls. Ren i also read that the EGR valve could be stuck and causes the fuel to go lean and stall out at idle. Would the EGR throw its own code ? The cars going on the rack to day for air filter, plugs, tranny flush and oil change. Ill ohm out the wires. If that doesnt work, ill look into the EGR and compression tests. What otehr places can i look for vacuum leaks ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Daddy Posted June 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Quick update, change oil, dropped tranny pan fluid and filters, air filter, and spark plugs. Still had CEL light, got the OBDII out again and the only code left was the knock sensor one. I manuallly cleared that one out rode around for an hour or so everything was perfect. I guess while the car was sitting the plug corroded or maybe i knocked #6 wire loose while i was unhooking the battery. All the plugs were evenly worn so i dont think there was any damage done. I had the on duty mechanic verify and he said all the plugs looked good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 The egr would have thrown a code, if that was the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synesthesia Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 save the whoring till after the milly's fixed pls. Whoring outside of the lounge is not tolerated and enforced at all times. The Millenia section, including this thread gets checked 5-10 times a day and any off-topic post removed. I believe your best bet lies in the plug wire itself, have you replaced any of the spark plugs recently? or rather how many miles are on them, if there truely old it could be just enough to trip the code. As for as idle the fuel/air meter would come into play, at low rpm's its not mixing just right to keep the engine truely running. Although I'm not sure why it would work when you put the cleaners in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super S 69 Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 save the whoring till after the milly's fixed pls. Whoring outside of the lounge is not tolerated and enforced at all times. The Millenia section, including this thread gets checked 5-10 times a day and any off-topic post removed. I believe your best bet lies in the plug wire itself, have you replaced any of the spark plugs recently? or rather how many miles are on them, if there truely old it could be just enough to trip the code. As for as idle the fuel/air meter would come into play, at low rpm's its not mixing just right to keep the engine truely running. Although I'm not sure why it would work when you put the cleaners in. Thanks for telling us that bhr we know that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Daddy Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 Heres the codes i got now motorheads. Now these codes only pop up when the engine is cold in the morning. Once ive warmed the engine up, i can clear the codes and start the car 90 times without a CEL. But the first start, every time on a cold engine i get these 2. I spent a few days testing this with the OBDII reader to make sure. P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction Bank 1 P0325 Knock Sensor Bank 1 A muscle car motorhead that i work with said that it could be the MAF sensor, but he admits he doesnt know much about newer car comps, sensors, and such. I think if that was bad the codes wouldnt all point to bank one. But i dont know; any thoughts ? I dont want to go popping and swapping parts that coudl get expensive quick.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 A maf sensor would NOT be temperature specific. To be honest, it sounds like one (or more) of your fuel injectors is dirty/fucked up, and the knock sensor may be shot too. Mazda uses a fuel enrichment program when the engine is cold to help with cold starts. It's a poor system at best as it wastes a lot of gas, but it does work. During the warm up, more gas gets pushed making the car run rich until it's at temp. If one of the injectors isn't firing properly it will be most evident then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Daddy Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 how do i test injectors ???? also, MTS mentioned there being 2 Vacuum T's. I found and replaced one (the one on top to the left), i believe that helped with the idling issue. Maybe the other has melted too, but i cant find that one... Again i have the L, thanks in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted June 16, 2007 Report Share Posted June 16, 2007 try a bottle or three of techron fuel injector cleanr, or seafoam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 17, 2007 Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 Being that you have the L, maybe there is only one. As I have an S, I am not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Daddy Posted June 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 Imma bump this cuzz the milly CEL is still lit... Does anybody know the location of the second vacuum T on a L ? Does it even exist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 29, 2007 Report Share Posted June 29, 2007 Calling REN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted July 1, 2007 Report Share Posted July 1, 2007 indeed, I have a P0306 as well which recently developed, but it shoud be a simply matter of swtiching the coil packs and seeing if the bastard misfire follows it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted July 1, 2007 Report Share Posted July 1, 2007 I know for sure you have a vacuum t for the vris, you may have one heading towards the egr solenoids also, not sure though. What code is stored now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Daddy Posted July 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction Bank 1 P0325 Knock Sensor Bank 1 same ones, ill look for the egr one.... thanks ren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 That's not vacuum related. I just realized it's only one bank that's throwing a code, if it was vacuum, then it would be both banks, since there's only one fuel pressure regulator and it controls both banks. One of your injectors is probably fucked up, or an o2 sensor. And the knock sensor is definitely not vacuum related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Daddy Posted July 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 but if i has a bad injector, one of the plugs would have been jacked up when i changed them. An o2 sensor should have its own code huh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Not exactly. If the sensor reads that there is too much oxygen in the exhaust, then it relays the message to the pcm, and the pcm corrects the lean mixture by forcing the injectors to stay open longer. Now imagine that the sensor is screwed up and always shows the same reading no matter how the pcm tries to compensate. The pcm then thinks that there is a fuel trim malfunction since it's telling the injectors to shoot a certain amount, but because of the false readings, the pcm doesn't know that they are actually shooting that amount. Next, how bad is bad? If a single injector is only at 30%, then there's still enough gas for an explosion so you don't get a miss, but there isn't enough to be where the pcm tells it to be. And chances are one of the plugs would be whiter or more blistered than the others, but only if it's running really lean. Now, throw premium gas into the mix, and the blistering almost disappears. You want my advice, grab an o2 sensor from a scrapyard and try it first. They're cheap and quite accessible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted July 4, 2007 Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 most of my plugs were kind of white Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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