Tcs/tcs Off/4w Abs Lights On & P0455

[JeffD]

Hey guys, I posted this over on .org, but thought I'd try here also.

 

I have a 2000 S and I have the TCS/TCS Off/4W ABS Lights on & P0455 (Evaporative emissions control system leak (large leak or blockage) detected). The lights started intermitently, I would drive for a few minutes, then they would come on. Now they're on all the time. I do have a bit of sluggishness, no stalling or anything though. Sounds to me like this is the vacuum leak problem causing all of this. I got the vacuum hose schematic from the sticky, and i did a search, but the resulting threads were a slightly different problem. I haven't been under the hood yet however. Is there a good way to go about replacing the vacuum lines, or is it fairly straight forward once I get in there. I've done this before on old Jeep CJ-7s and Wranglers, but those lines are right in your face when you open the hood. Just wondering how it is with the Milly.

 

Any advice or diagnostic expertise is appreciated. This is a great site by the way. I stumbled across it while searching and I'm very glad I did.

 

Thanks

[Frankzao]

If you found the diagram that's great....There is something like 20 - 25 feet of vacuum lines under the hood. When I did mine a couple of years ago, taking my time, it took about 4 hours....just take your time and do them ONE AT A TIME......

[///BHRpowered]

As a WJ owner I can tell you that nothing is like working on a millenia, not even an audi.

 

For the first time around I'd plan on a full day worth of work just to access all the vacuum lines. IMO just replace them one by one since there are so many running around. It's just easier and avoids problems down the road. I'd also recommend upgrading to some double wall silicone hoses so you only have to do this once.

 

Link somewhere that has green ones to match the miller-cycle theme, 40 bucks or something to do whole engine bay.

 

It does sound like a vacuum leak, did it get worse as the temp changed? seafoamed or anything else lately?

[JeffD]

If you found the diagram that's great....There is something like 20 - 25 feet of vacuum lines under the hood. When I did mine a couple of years ago, taking my time, it took about 4 hours....just take your time and do them ONE AT A TIME......

Thanks for the advice, I'll have to get in there and figure out what size vacuum lines I need.

 

 

As a WJ owner I can tell you that nothing is like working on a millenia, not even an audi.

 

For the first time around I'd plan on a full day worth of work just to access all the vacuum lines. IMO just replace them one by one since there are so many running around. It's just easier and avoids problems down the road. I'd also recommend upgrading to some double wall silicone hoses so you only have to do this once.

 

Link somewhere that has green ones to match the miller-cycle theme, 40 bucks or something to do whole engine bay.

 

It does sound like a vacuum leak, did it get worse as the temp changed? seafoamed or anything else lately?

I'll look for that link, thanks for the heads up on the double wall lines. I'll check that out. No change in performance with weather changes (not that I've noticed anyway). I does feel quite sluggish at lower RPMs though. If I punch it, it still takes off pretty well, but the lower RPM cruising seems to be the worst.

[///BHRpowered]

Supercharger produces 7psi of boost in first gear and 14psi in all over gears, there is also a special solonoid bypass that can activate a "power mode" still sounds to me like a vacuum leak though as I said, its a days job.

 

I found in my notes that it takes 30ft, green can be had from samco? and the link I have saved is boostcontroller.com. Just remember to get the double wall or thick or whatever, last thing in the world you want is a vacuum line collapsing then looking perfectly fine when inspecting.

 

*edit* this was what I was talking about, hard to find in search, but should give you all access you need.

http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php...87&hl=samco

 

Won't find this on the pissbucket under the xbox's and ghetto rats abusing millenias day in and day out "what do I need to make 22's fit"

[JeffD]

Supercharger produces 7psi of boost in first gear and 14psi in all over gears, there is also a special solonoid bypass that can activate a "power mode" still sounds to me like a vacuum leak though as I said, its a days job.

 

I found in my notes that it takes 30ft, green can be had from samco? and the link I have saved is boostcontroller.com. Just remember to get the double wall or thick or whatever, last thing in the world you want is a vacuum line collapsing then looking perfectly fine when inspecting.

 

*edit* this was what I was talking about, hard to find in search, but should give you all access you need.

http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php...87&hl=samco

 

Won't find this on the pissbucket under the xbox's and ghetto rats abusing millenias day in and day out "what do I need to make 22's fit"

Great link, thanks for that. I'll probably order that heavy duty hose just to avoid problems in the future, and it's not that expensive. Can't find the brass tees on that site, but I'm sure I can get those locally.

 

Thanks again.

[///BHRpowered]

I found them just go to mcmaster.com and use the part number in that thread. 1.97 each or something

 

I do wonder about the heat since it says -99 to +65F, but that would be below room temp and I know brass isn't going to melt. Still no complaints yet

[JeffD]

Cool, thanks alot for the info. I'll be getting in there this week to get this sorted out. Took a quick look last night and it looks like a real challenge to get to all these.

 

Any tips on making it easier on myself?

 

(I sure do miss working on my '83 CJ7!)

[///BHRpowered]

Sorry, millenia's are not easy cars to work on. It gets easier each time you have to do something. My advice is do it in cool nice weather. I would HIGHLY recommend doing the spark plugs while you have all this off, the front ones can be done with just the intercooler off, rear ones are a giant pain. You'll be 80% of the way to them when doing this.

 

In my WJ taking out the battery and tray would be a 15 min thing, took almost an hour in the millenia to get everything out painted and back in

[JeffD]

I'm getting ready to tackle this tomorrow (and the next day if need be). I'm going to just have to use vacuum line from my auto parts store since I don't have time to order anything fancy. 4mm ID is the correct size right? Also, I read in the thread you posted that the gaskets are metal. I was going to use high temp gasket maker (permatex). Is that a good option, or should I re-use the metal ones. Seems to me that the permatex would make a better seal, and I don't like re-using gaskets once they're off, metal or not.

 

Thanks again for the advice.

[///BHRpowered]

Metal ones should be fine, but JUST A HAIR of extra sealant wouldn't hurt. 4mm is correct but I strongly advise finding the thickest wall ones you can find. If just one line collapses under vacuum it'll be the biggest pain ever trying to find it

[JeffD]

Cool, I'll probably wind up buying the upgraded vac lines that the ricers use. They're usually pretty thick compared to stock (even though they'll be red or yellow or something gay - haha).

 

I'll be doing the plugs too, I'm a real glutton for punishment!

 

THanks

[Synesthesia]

It'll be a pain, but you'll be thankful in the long run you did it all at once, good luck. Feel free to take pics and add to the threads. Help the noobs who come after you

[JeffD]

Got it done today, wasn't too bad. Didn't fix the TCS/ABS problem though. Runs better with the new plugs though.

 

Any advice on where I should go next for the TCS/TCS Off/4W ABS lights?

[///BHRpowered]

hmm....assuming none of the lines are collapsing under vacuum I'm at a bit of a loss. You did disconnect battery and clear all codes before or right after doing the vacuum lines right?

 

I want to say a speed sensor could be triggering the abs light, but thats more a Jeep thing. How is the car handling? still sluggish?

 

Edit*

 

In regards to your 0455 CEL I found this

 

"A large leak has been detected in the evaporative system. Also, possible faulty or loose gas cap. Note: The respective Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual will direct the technician to determine if the vehicle evaporative system has an external system leak. Examples of some external system leaks are: a loose gas cap, a disconnected evaporative system hose, or a loose hose connection. Remember that the evaporative system may also have an internal system leak. This internal leak may be caused by an intermittent or permanently stuck open Duty Cycle Purge (DCP) valve. This leak source is considered to be internal because any escaping emissions enter into the engine system and not directly into the atmosphere, unlike an external leak. An internal leak may cause one of the above DTC?s. Possible causes of a stuck open (intermittent or permanent) DCP valve are: 1. Corrosion due to system moisture or possible water intrusion into the system."

[JeffD]

hmm....assuming none of the lines are collapsing under vacuum I'm at a bit of a loss. You did disconnect battery and clear all codes before or right after doing the vacuum lines right?

 

I want to say a speed sensor could be triggering the abs light, but thats more a Jeep thing. How is the car handling? still sluggish?

 

Edit*

 

In regards to your 0455 CEL I found this

 

"A large leak has been detected in the evaporative system. Also, possible faulty or loose gas cap. Note: The respective Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual will direct the technician to determine if the vehicle evaporative system has an external system leak. Examples of some external system leaks are: a loose gas cap, a disconnected evaporative system hose, or a loose hose connection. Remember that the evaporative system may also have an internal system leak. This internal leak may be caused by an intermittent or permanently stuck open Duty Cycle Purge (DCP) valve. This leak source is considered to be internal because any escaping emissions enter into the engine system and not directly into the atmosphere, unlike an external leak. An internal leak may cause one of the above DTC?s. Possible causes of a stuck open (intermittent or permanent) DCP valve are: 1. Corrosion due to system moisture or possible water intrusion into the system."

The battery was out all day. As soon as I put the key back in, the TCS/ABS lights were back on. The CEL is off now, but that's just because the codes are scrambled from the battery being out. It will be back on in another week or so and I'll check to see if the 0455 code is still there. The gas cap & gasket look fine, maybe I'll replace it anyway just to see if it helps.

 

The fact that the lights were on IMMEDIATELY when I turned the key after the battery being out seems to indicate to me that it's a wiring/sensor problem. I REALLY don't want to take this thing to the dealer.

 

*sigh*

[JeffD]

^^^On that note, what sensors would cause this that I could check? Wheel speed sensor, abs sensor maybe?

[///BHRpowered]

On a WJ I know a bad speed sensor will trip the abs light, but Im just not sure about the millenia. You could try autozone or some place with a full code reader that can scan for everything.

 

I'm amazed it was on right away, that tells me something has just plain stopped responding or gone bad

[JeffD]

On a WJ I know a bad speed sensor will trip the abs light, but Im just not sure about the millenia. You could try autozone or some place with a full code reader that can scan for everything.

 

I'm amazed it was on right away, that tells me something has just plain stopped responding or gone bad

Yeah, I'm thinking it's a bad sensor somewhere. Does Chilton or Haynes make a manual for these so I could find out where all this stuff is? I haven't been able to find anything.

[///BHRpowered]

lol, oh silly noob.

 

No one makes a manual for the millenia, on engine things you can get away with a 626 manual for the 2.5, but the 2.3 is another another. I few people have the FSM, I know I have either the parts list or something else in PDF.

 

Usually a blinking TCS light means there is a tranny problem, but it isn't blinking and it doesn't sound like the car is locked in "safety" mode

 

 

Would be great if renboy were still around

[JeffD]

Didn't think so. I do have the '96 service manual in PDF, I'll just have to try to go off of that.

 

I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the advice so far.

[///BHRpowered]

In safety mode the boost is cut in half, won't rev high and usually won't go above 50-60mph. It always comes with a blinking CEL or TCS light

[JeffD]

No, nothing's blinking and it seems to be driving okay at higher rpms and speeds. I can't tell if it's still a a little sluggish at low RPMs or if it's just in my head because my dash is lit up like a Christmas tree,