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P1540 vaccum diagram


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Hi, I'm having problems with my vaccum lines and the solenoid. The car doesn't stay at idle, tha TCS light is sometimes on, and once it indicates P1540 code. I took it to a Mazda Dealer and they didn't found the problem, awesome maybe they can fix toyoya.


Well my situation is, does anyone has a vaccum diagram? I have one but it's not detailed and I can't understand where the hoses goes exactly. I'm going to try to fix myself.



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  • 1 month later...

Originally posted by the Great MTS in the neitherworld... prior to the mass exodus. :shifty:


OK I have the same problem and have traced it back to a faulty ABV solenoid valve (vacuum) which is on the the back of the engine with two other valves and a small air filter. It is the valve on the right side as your looking at it. If you have a multimeter take a reading across the posts should be 22-26 ohms, if higher (mine is 138 ohms) then you have to replace it. If it cannot read then it is also finished, dealer only part ranting2.gif , but only $62 CAN. It is not a normally stocked item so they, of course, have to order it and make you wait! I have the 12V going to the valve, but not enough to move it because of the high resistance. This acts as a block in the vacuum system, and therefore wreaks havoc on everything.


P1113, P1525 and P1540 came up, when you read the description for a P1540 it says to take care of the P1113 (intake air temp sensor) and the P1525(ABV solenoid valve vacuum) first, before proceeding. P1540 is the system failure realted to the solenoid valve failing. So then I tested the valve for the resistance, and of course found mine to be bad. SO I have ordered one to pick up while on my trip to Halifax this week, and will replace it when I get back to my car. 5 minute swap, two hoses and one plug.


Replace the ABV Solenoid Valve (vacuum) part number KJ-02-18-741A, dealer only part, $67 CAN.... solved my problem right off the bat. Was also getting a P1525 (which is that valve) this does not allow the vacuum system to function and should give lots of phantom errors like the TCS!


OK on the back of the engine near the firewall there is a cluster of solenoid valves and and a small air filter (4 units in number), the one on the right as you are looking at the engine from the front is the ABV Solenoid (vacuum) one electrical clip and two vacuum hoses. The short hose that goes to the valve beside it goes on top and the of course the other hose goes to the other. I will take a picture after work and post it!






Pics already posted.

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look at that mesh of wires! scary

thats what i said at the beginning, but those little cunt solenoids are very easy to take out and change, mazda wanted to charge me something like $360 ($240 for 3 solenoids and $120 "labour") to replace all 3 solenoids "oh they go bad all of a sudden :D"


psh, I just asked for the part, and made sure i opened hte hood and changed it in full view of the service department, it only took like 5 minutes, the only hard thing is that the hoses are kind of baked on to the plastic, so you have to yank and twist on them





i suggest that everyone with 80k mi or more, or anyone suspecting there SC to be going out to change the ABV Vent solenoid, for $80 you may solve the knocking. Mine was rattling and knocking and generally being scary... turned out i was just that bitch solenoid that was causing the trouble


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