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yeah I thought so. just chekcing to be absolutely sure. my dad said that sometimes theres an air bubble in the heater core, and running the heat "circulates the water more"

 

i was like :hmm: but i thought it was always circulating?

 

 

Is there any way to force the radiater fans to always run? i'd really like that extra bit of comfort

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Coolant is always circulating through the heater core. The hoses for it bypass everything, including the thermostat. If your car overheats when stopped, and then starts to cool as you drive (or rpm's increase), then generally that means your waterpump is on it's way out.

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silence renboy, the water pump, are you crazy. i have to do the timing belt as well, and i don't have you or MTS nearby to fix any of my mistakes. i need this car 5 days a week, no ifs ands or buts. so saturday its going to the dealer and im going to cough up $1100 for them to do belts and pump

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It's not that hard, just take it one bolt at a time, and you already know where it is, and that every bolt that comes out needs to go back in. Not to mention you have a copy of the factory repair manual...I don't see the problem.

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Out of curiousity, how do you misplace a workshop manual? It's not like it's a set of keys or a watch, the thing is huge...you could kill someone with it.

 

If it's leaking then it's completely shot. That means there's basically no pressure and all the coolant is running out of the weeper. Yours may simply be on it's way out. The impellers on the pump deteriorate and no longer push as much coolant as they should at any given speed (rpm). Once you accelerate the impeller speeds up and more coolant is pushed. If it heats up when stopped, and falls again when moving, then 95% of the time it's the water pump. Driving with the ac on can confuse this as the ac forces the second fan to come on, which cools the warm coolant more that when only one fan is on (obviously). And also the ac raises the idle, which makes it push more coolant.

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If it is the water pump... it should be getting more common... I would bet that since you just had a coolant flush that there was air trapped around the sensor and giving false readings... OR you have a bad sensor...

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