SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Following is a summary of your order: -6 NGK Double Platinum Stock Number: 4363 Part Number: PZFR5F-11 Unit Price: $11.71 Extended Price: $70.26 -NGK Premium wire set Stock Number: 8163 Part Number: ZE32B Unit Price: $78.13 Extended Price: $78.13 Now I have a question, I have never changed sparkplugs. Asked my teacher for help and he said to be patient, but I want to do this now. The question is, is there any sealant or Loctite type stuff that I put around the sparkplugs to create a good seal or is it screw out, screw in done? Im also ordering: Distributor cap and gasket Distributor rotor Fuel Filter Brake pads and rotors New wheel well splash guards. -Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 I hope you have a 2.5, because the S doesn't use a distributor, unless broken you don't need a new rotor or anything, HOWEVER, if your going to replace the spark plugs you would be much better off to replace the spark plug wires or upgrade to performance ones. The laser plats are the exact same plugs I have in my car, not sure who has used them in a 2.5 but should be fine. As for sealant DO NOT!!!!! use loc-tite, could not be a worst thing to use. Now some people will disagree, but I have never used anything on any car when changing plugs, what I like to do is blow out the hole a bit, just to make sure nothing can fall into the cylinders while the old plug is removed, go one at a time, some people recommend putting anti-seize on the plug threads, just a tiny dab, it will make it easier to remove later on, but if you change them at the required intervals you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Hahaha yes I have the 2.5, and have done some work on a 2.3 so I know the difference. NGK wires are performance wires arent they??? If so as you can see above I ordered a set. I will buy some anti-sieze and do it right thanks. -Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 they'll work well enough I had an older grand cherokee with the 4.0 before my current Jeep, it was in pretty decent condition whe nI got it, but at 140k I changed the plugs and wires, made a huge difference in gas mileage, idle, quality of driving etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Should I just wait till the Distributor cap and rotor go out to change it or do it as preventative maintenance? After doing this it would mean my car has had a complete tune-up. -Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Use penetrating oil spray if they are very hard to get out, then use anti-sieze grease on the threads and tighten to 11-16 ft.lbs and no tighter than that. You should also put dielectric boot protector gel on the ceramic top part of the plug which keeps your boots from freezing on the plug. The anti-sieze grease and boot gel come in small foil packages at the checkout in autozone for about $1 each and there is more than enough there for all 6 plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Aww crap, I dont have a torque wrench. I have PB blaster and dielectric grease stuff. Ill have to buy anti-seize. What should I do about not having the torque wrench? Buy a cheap one? (I dont even know how to use one yet, but ill figure it out.) Thanks -Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 You can rent them at autozone, but it might be a good idea to buy a cheap one if you think you will be able to use it enough. I use it most often whenever I remove the wheels the lugs need to be torqued to 80 ft. lbs, and a lot of things in the engine have torque values, especially the aluminum parts. I always re-torque the wheels too if someone touches them if I get new tires or wheels balanced or something. Usually they are torqued at all different values and I loosen them and hand torque to 80. And they are very easy to use. As far as I know there are two kinds. On one of them you turn the handle to the value and tighten the bolt until the wrench clicks, and on the other you tighten and watch the needle on a scale until you hit the torque value. You will need to have one for the sparkplugs even if you borrow it from someone. If you over-torque them this time you will not have a fun time removing them the next time, or you could end up breaking one which would turn a very easy job into an expensive repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Well I am studying Automotive Tech so I should buy one. The cheap ones I see go for $30 at pepboys. -Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 I bought a cheap one for $10-15 from walmart. I would say it is pretty darn good for the price. You may wanna buy a better one since you will use it more than me. And BHR if you really have the -11 plugs they are wrong for MCE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 No i think he just meant he had double platinums, hopefully he has the right gapping. And ill just buy a cheap one for now (I get a large tool set when I graduate), Ill take a trip to Walmart tomm. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Only put a little anti-seize on the threads of the plugs, don't coat the shit out of them. Anti-seize is an insulator, and as such, if you put too much you'll diminish the contact between the plug and head causing poor spark. NGK wires are really good, the only reason I didn't replace mine with NGK was vanity, I wanted black wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 You might be able to find a conductive anti-seize.... I know they are out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 saint - I'm not sure of the exact gap, just that there NGK and the laser plats, when I ordered them I checked the gap and got what the S requires, .32 or something I can't remember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Spark plug gap for the 2.3L KJ engine is .028"-.031" Spark plug gap for the 2.5L KL engine is .039"-.042" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Ok thanks guys, I will see if I find a conductive anti-sieze if not I wont even put any since I know how bad an engine can run when not properly grounded. My car isnt even running wierd but I thought I should just change them now that im only driving 7 miles to school instead of my high school that was 60 miles roundtrip a day. -Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 There is always dielectric grease, but has NO anti-seize properties Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Well Ill just take my chance and deal with the removal of the sparkplugs 50K from now if I dont find conductive anti-seize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 At least you have the 2.5 the S is a 3-4 hour job if 1st time doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 I had to change all the ignition coils on the S and that sucked ass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 That it does.... so you know what is involved to then change plugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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