Knocking Sound...again.

[cuto]

How many kms cuto?? Actually I remember yours is very low km. Tensioner should be fine. Why did you get denso spark plugs? You should put NGK. It is very sensitive.

 

I ordered NGK's saint (ebay germany), the guy sent me Denso ones, but they fully meet Mazda's specs. The box even has mazda part number: denso part PKJ16CR8 PLATIMUN MAZDA KJ14 18 110.

 

I protested and seller said Denso was even costier...and he is right.

[latinopikachu]

CUTO

 

where did you find this kit?! what does it include? I need to get a COMPLETE kit that has TB tensioner, TB, drive belts, TB idlers, front crank seal and cam seals, water pump, VCGs and the spark plug grommets.

 

Lat: see here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...8&viewitem=

 

theimportexperts: $279 US. All idlers and tensioner included. Fast delivery too.

 

Kit includes:

(1) Timing Belt (KL01-12-205)

(1) Timing Belt Tensioner (KJ01-12-750)

(2) Timing Belt Idler Upper (KL01-12-730A)

(1) Timing Belt Idler Lower (KJ01-12-740)

(1) Hydraulic Tensioner

 

I must say: since i have this car i became a master in finding parts for it. Wish i would have done the same with my previous cars, would have saved tons of cash....Remember, that kit here costs more than 1200 Euros, thats 1800 $US.

 

What about cam and crank seals, and the rubber spark plug grommets? Did you do those too?

 

 

also... cats (all) and o2s??? any thoughts, anyone?

[enginph]

cuto I have the same set except I got Mazda water pump, hydrolic tensioner, and timing belt. I also got the front crank shaft seal. It is cheap and easy to change while in there.

 

BTW my car is at 130k miles and didnt have the problem you have. I think timing belt is original.

 

[cuto]

cuto I have the same set except I got Mazda water pump, hydrolic tensioner, and timing belt. I also got the front crank shaft seal. It is cheap and easy to change while in there.

 

BTW my car is at 130k miles and didnt have the problem you have. I think timing belt is original.

 

Didnt get the seals...

 

Lat:

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,64...ES_TCK267P.html

 

Ebay has it also...same price.

 

This one comes with seals...but no Hydraulic tensioner.

[latinopikachu]

it says in th description it does

[cuto]

it says in th description it does

 

Oh yes..but i don´t think thats the hydraulic one, just that one with a little triangle thingy. Full kit has 5 pieces apart from the belt 2 upper 1 down (idlers) and 2 other parts, hydraulic tensioner and that other one with a lever like thingy.

 

The cilindrical Tensioner, thats the most pricey think on the kit (coz there is no OEM part).

[enginph]

Interestingly this kit say it fits to 99-01 2.5 as well. Very interesting.

 

Lat tensioner consists of two parts: the expensive hydrolic adjuster and the pulley. Sometimes they meant the pulley by "the tensioner".

 

[cuto]

Interestingly this kit say it fits to 99-01 2.5 as well. Very interesting.

 

Lat tensioner consists of two parts: the expensive hydrolic adjuster and the pulley. Sometimes they meant the pulley by "the tensioner".

 

Car is at the shop...it got there and after i turned the AC on it started to behave like in that last video. Mech got a stethoscope and started to hear the knock (bad medicineeeee). "its the supercharcher" -he said. "MMM...don´t you think that noise is very random this far?" said i".

 

Well..after some consideration we noticed that the noise appears exactly when the engine stutters: stutter-noise; stutter-noise....Spark? Then i said: it had independent coils. Ohhhh...could be one! Mech can't read any English...so i dumped all milleniatech pics and vac diagram. He stared at the engine and....SIGH. Oh my...

 

To do: Change timing belt kit and all other belts; sparks; check the coils. See if it goes away.

 

A good tip from a polish forum: a guy saw my video and said he had the exact noise. Took it to Mazda and the diagnostic was a bad supercharger. He didnt have the money and kept riding the car. After 2.000 miles the water pump died on him . New water pump meant: no more noise.

 

We have a very delicate engine... another tip: DUDE...tell the mechanic that the timing belt covers have tabs that break very easily : and covers cost a fortune. Oh myyyyyyyy....

 

[enginph]

T-belt covers have gaskets as well. Even those gaskets are expensive.

 

You might have some codes stored but I dont know how to access them.

 

[latinopikachu]

Mine was doing the same shit and I was thinking it was the SC. it went away after a couple of days, and went away a few days later.

[cuto]

UPDATE: timing belt kit installed today, spark plugs are going in. New water pump arrives tomorrow!

 

Mechanic diagnostic till now: everything was ok with timing belt, no noises, tensioner was still good.

 

Best bet: it´s a spark plug or a coil causing a misfire that could shakes the engine around the supercharger area. Tomorrow all sparks are gonna be changed and engine will be checked for the noise, if it keeps doing it, time to test all the coils. The fact is: misfire causes the noise...so far.

 

On a side note: mechanic said that that was no big deal changing timing belt...to my surprise he said the car had good access to the timing belt. Not like some old Fiat's that had to have the engine taken off the bay.

 

Im feeling a bit better...at last i found a guy that was not afraid to tackle the Xedos. He shouldn't , in fact, the guy prepares race cars.

 

No issue whatsoever with tranny... also, he said, engine block looks real nice. No oil...really clean engine..apart from dust!

[MazdaMomma]

Just a thought, but check the catalytic converter to make sure it isn't clogged or falling apart.

 

 

[enginph]

UPDATE: timing belt kit installed today, spark plugs are going in. New water pump arrives tomorrow!

 

Mechanic diagnostic till now: everything was ok with timing belt, no noises, tensioner was still good.

 

Best bet: it´s a spark plug or a coil causing a misfire that could shakes the engine around the supercharger area. Tomorrow all sparks are gonna be changed and engine will be checked for the noise, if it keeps doing it, time to test all the coils. The fact is: misfire causes the noise...so far.

 

On a side note: mechanic said that that was no big deal changing timing belt...to my surprise he said the car had good access to the timing belt. Not like some old Fiat's that had to have the engine taken off the bay.

 

Im feeling a bit better...at last i found a guy that was not afraid to tackle the Xedos. He shouldn't , in fact, the guy prepares race cars.

 

No issue whatsoever with tranny... also, he said, engine block looks real nice. No oil...really clean engine..apart from dust!

 

cuto, if it misfires the best way (after CEL) to see is to listen the exhaust tip. You will see what I mean once you hear the misfire in the exhaust.

 

[cuto]

Thank you guys:

 

Will be paying attention to those tips.

 

Water pump is an original Mazda part; HELL it doesnt gome with a seal/gasket. All OEM water pumps i've seen do....and cost far less. No time to get one off Internet, so it will only arrive tomorrow, it's gonna be at least another day before engine is started and see what gives.

 

[cuto]

Good and and bad news:

 

Got the car today, everything was replaced (by everything i mean the list bellow):

 

1- New timing belt kit, tensioner and idlers included.

 

2- New Spark Plugs.

 

3- New water pump.

 

4- All service belts.

 

Conclusion: car still does the same. It is misfiring for sure. You can hear the hesitation in the exhaust also (Tks Saint).

 

Now...as far as the mechanic sees it: the misfire of one or more cylinders causes the engine to jerk, the noise appears to be the Supercharger pulley (?) twitching. In fact you can see it jerk when misfire(s) happen.

Next bet: coils. I really don't know how to test them coz theres no OBD2 on the Xedos, it won´t show the codes has it would on the millenia my guess). Gonna try a Mazda dealer now...

 

Next : injector?

 

Good news: the mechanic was really into the car. To change all the coils he says he will need 3 hours. I saw him changing the rear spark plugs....WOW...i was amazed on how he knew what to so quick. Asked him how the hell he knew all the steps by heart. Answer: " If you really pay attention to what you are doing while taking an engine or whatever apart, mark the parts, cables, hoses etc. etc, it's easy to read the "crumbs" back to the correct path".

 

Oh..btw. This is the good news. I finally got a shop that can take care of that engine. The guy had a Bosh diagnostic UBER machine, no coil test available on that. (not for OBD1...it showed very few tests on this car, the same, i'm afraid i could pick up with my buzzer tester).

 

Gonna think if it's worth buying 3 coils to test...but i think next step is trying to get Mazda dealership to read the codes.

 

[enginph]

Good that you found someone capable to work on the car. As for the problem I didnt expect it to be fixed, your car has very low miles for a bad tensioner.

 

If you know it is a misfire either you can try to find a way to read the codes (possible through mazda diagnostic port for sure) or try to unplug the coils and see which one doesnt make a difference. I think except 3 and 5 all are accessible. If you find a way to read from diagnostic port it will be helpful in the future as well. Did you try the LED thing?

 

[cuto]

Led only reads DTC codes i'm afraid. Up to code 99 http://codes.milleniatech.net/obdi/.

 

Gonna try Mazda...but hell...after o posted this i just bought 6 new coils from ebay. New coil is over 340 Euros here. Bought all six for $535.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

 

I definitely want the car to last me a few more years...it's a baby with 45.000 Miles.

 

P.S. i rented a Fiat Punto less than a year old. It was nice to drive it around town with a manual stick. Went to highway and it scared the shit outta me! At 120 Km/h the bugger felt like it was going at 200 KM! The trip back home with the Xedos (even a bit crippled) made my day. Boy...at 140 Km you feel like you're driving the Punto at 30 Km... This is a car that once you have had it, you won't forget it, even if sometimes you get a problem with it.

[latinopikachu]

OK SO do i have to replace the gaskets on the TB cover? My TB cover is all shot to hell.

 

What is the official name for cam seals? LOL. I tried looking on mazdapartscheap and could only find the front crank seal. I have almost everything I need besides the water pump, SC and plugs. Just need the cam seals and drive belts.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-Mille...sQ5fAccessories

 

i'm still unclear as to how many damned tensioners that stupid TB has, does this kit come with all i need?

[enginph]

As I said before. The tensioner they mentioned is the tensioner pulley. There is a real tensioner that pushes the pulley. So you are still missing the tensioner. I have it and can take pic. if you want.

 

Its good to change the t-belt cover gaskets but they are priced as if they are made of gold. So I will not change them.

 

Cam seals have to be changed as well? Front crank seal is very easy during the job and it is cheap so change it. Rear crank seal is another job. Dont know how hard.

 

SC??

 

On plugs I was very lucky and found the correct ones for $30/6 on ebay.

[latinopikachu]

Rear crank seal you have to take the tranny off as depicted in teh workshop manual. That's what the guy said, cam seals have to be done because its slinging oil. Im assming its from the crank seal which i will have replaced during the job. i refuse to replace the timing cover gaskets. The idiots from the other shop overtightened the cover and broke some tabs the last time, we'll see if they can even put it back on.

 

my SC is pushing oil and must be replaced.

 

 

and i keep searching for cam seals on mazda parts sites and cant find any.. grr

[enginph]

Rear crank seal you have to take the tranny off as depicted in teh workshop manual. That's what the guy said, cam seals have to be done because its slinging oil. Im assming its from the crank seal which i will have replaced during the job. i refuse to replace the timing cover gaskets. The idiots from the other shop overtightened the cover and broke some tabs the last time, we'll see if they can even put it back on.

 

my SC is pushing oil and must be replaced.

 

 

and i keep searching for cam seals on mazda parts sites and cant find any.. grr

 

How much oil is it pushing? I am loosing oil from an unknown source and I had a white smoke at wot yesterday. I couldnt reproduce it yet, might be just water. Checked s/c in the weekend and it was a little dump, as it always was.

 

Is there a seal or a special bearing?

 

[cuto]

http://allmazda.net/parts/XEDOS-9/AETA03/E1/1005%20A/

http://allmazda.net/parts/XEDOS-9/AETA03/E1/1100%20A/

KL0111312

15052100 AJUSA

75X93X9 CORTECO

75X93X9 R O.E.

81-53314-00 REINZ

81-53314-00 REINZ

9945N23001 JAPANCARS

BH3289-G0 NOK

M4645 MUSASHI

M4645/UE MUSASHI

N23001 JAPANCARS

NOK 75*93*9 L NMC

OS-107682N NMC

 

http://allmazda.net/parts/XEDOS-9/AETA03/E1/1200%20A/

[Frankzao]

How To Test Your Coil Packs, Using a multimeter instead of the "spark test"

 

 

I borrowed an analog multimeter and here are the unbelievable results.

I say that because IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE, whether you use a DIGITAL or ANALOG multimeter.

To recap. Using a Digital Multimeter, the ONLY measurement possible was between terminals 3&4.

This was true even on the BAD coil. So DO NOT USE A DIGITAL!!!

That being said, here you go.

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

For orientation, the coil should sit in front of you with the spark plug boot in the air.

This leaves the terminals facing you. There are 4 pins on older coil packs and 3 pins on newer coil packs.

Left to right, they are numbered 1 thru 4. If it is a 3 pin coil pack, the #2 pin is not present.

 

I measured nine (9) coils. 1 of them I KNEW was bad, 2 of them were good, and 6 that I had just purchased.

 

The bad one is "B1".

The good ones from my car are "G1" & "G2".

The new ones are "N1" thru "N6". (N1 & N2 are of the 4-pin variety).

 

ALL measurements are in "K ohms".

"B" means black (common) lead on the first pin.

Example: "B34" means Black lead on #3pin and Red lead on #4 pin.

"R" means red (power) lead on the first pin.

Example: "R34" means Red lead on #3 pin and Black lead on #4 pin.

 

"No R" means "No Reading" not 0.00.

 

 

Test: B34 | B14 | B13 | R34 | R14 | R13 |

G1: 1.20 | No R | No R | 1.38 | 1.20 | 1.09 |

G2: 1.20 | No R | No R | 1.30 | 1.20 | 1.09 |

 

B1: No R | No R | No R | No R | No R | 1.19 |

 

N1: 1.40 | 16.0 | 14.0 | 1.40 | 1.25 | 1.19 |

N2: 1.40 | 16.0 | 14.0 | 1.39 | 1.30 | 1.19 |

N3: 1.40 | No R | No R | 1.38 | 1.20 | 1.10 |

N4: 1.39 | No R | No R | 1.25 | 1.30 | 1.20 |

N5: 1.39 | No R | No R | 1.20 | 1.39 | 1.20 |

N6: 1.40 | No R | No R | 1.25 | 1.39 | 1.20 |

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

So as you can see, if the coil is bad you will only get a measure at R13. Otherwise it is good.

 

The 4-pin coils were the only ones to measure on B14 & B13 tests.

They also measured between 30 and 70 for B2 to 1,3, or 4. R2 to 1,3, or 4 was no reading.

 

I am running G1, G2, and N3 in my car. I think that is why R13 is lower for N3 than the other "N" coils.

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

-Zao

 

[Cyberdyne]

1 member is celebrating his/her birthday today

cuto(43)

[cuto]

1 member is celebrating his/her birthday today

cuto(43)

 

Yea...Imma old tea bag.

 

Frank: I will be trying that test. Didn't think testing with a multimeter was any good coz of the reported hit and misses (read that it was 99% inaccurate). BUT maybe they were using a digital multimeter.

 

Cheers bud.