ChiTown Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 whoever can find the new mod in this pic gets a pat on the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 So it fitted? How did you wire it, parallel to the door speaker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Very nice, 95-00 tweeter mod. Same question, how did you wire it. You have BOSE still? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 I have my aftermarketing alpine tweeters there, better then the center location, but I like mine a bit better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Is that a Mazda part that can be ordered? I was planing on fabricating door sail tweeters, and I still might try, but that would be much less work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiTown Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 the tweeter isnt wired up yet. i will look into hooking it up with the bose system but am planning on upgrading the sound this summer at which time an aftermarket tweeter will go in the 01-02 covers. I got mine from a part car but you can order the covers from tasca for $15 each, i dont think that includes the speaker. part #T060-69-111D right, T060-69-171D left. i dont have a part number for the speaker.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Thanks, I do not need the speaker because I want to use aftermarket. Plus, I am sure it would be overpriced at the dealer. I will save those numbers since there is a fairly good chance my fabricated tweeter mounts will not work out. Are your front speakers bose or aftermarket? If they are aftermarket, you should be fine running the tweeters parallel with the bose amps. If they are bose speakers though, wire in series - with reduced output, or wait until you get a new headunit/amp. Parallel with the bose speakers will push the bose amp beyond its limits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Thanks, I do not need the speaker because I want to use aftermarket. Plus, I am sure it would be overpriced at the dealer. I will save those numbers since there is a fairly good chance my fabricated tweeter mounts will not work out. Are your front speakers bose or aftermarket? If they are aftermarket, you should be fine running the tweeters parallel with the bose amps. If they are bose speakers though, wire in series - with reduced output, or wait until you get a new headunit/amp. Parallel with the bose speakers will push the bose amp beyond its limits. Not sure about it. Tweeters are low load, should be in parallel to main speakers. Otherwise (in series) there will barely be sound from door speakers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Wouldnt you need a crossover though? And IIRC the tweeters themselves are $30. But I would go aftermarket anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Wouldnt you need a crossover though? And IIRC the tweeters themselves are $30. But I would go aftermarket anyways. You may need a cap depending on the tweeter type. Aftermarket all the way.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 A capacitor?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Does that mean mine is unmodded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Not sure about it. Tweeters are low load, should be in parallel to main speakers. Otherwise (in series) there will barely be sound from door speakers.. Most aftermarket speakers including tweeters are 4 ohms, and the bose are either 1 or 2 ohms with the amplifier designed for exactly that. So aftermarket speakers parallel to aftermarket tweeters will give 2 ohms which is fine for the amp, but if you wire parallel with the bose you will increase the load to 0.8 or 1.3 ohms (depending on if the bose are 1 or 2 ohms). It won't instantly destroy the amp, but it will be working harder and could potentially do damage over time. Series will give you 5 or 6 ohms, so the amp will not be damaged but will be working below its full ability. Output of the tweeters and door speakers will both be reduced equally, so fading to the front will even it out at the cost of your max volume being reduced. A capacitor?? A capacitor works as a passive high-pass crossover. Inductors are the opposite and work as passive low-pass crossovers. All you will find inside the crossover of aftermarket tweeters is a series of capacitors and possibly inductors to filter out the low frequencies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 just hook them up on the pre-amp side from the radio...no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Only 4 ohm for a tweeter? I thought it is much larger. Then it will present a load in parallel. There should be a cap inside the tweeter? Do you need to put an extra cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Aftermarket tweeters usually come with a separate crossover - which is nothing more than a plastic box that holds the capacitor(s). The OEM tweeters I have seen just have the cap soldered on to the back so it ends up being in series with either one of the leads. I think that some of the aftermarket crossovers use a series of caps/inductors only to achieve a sharper rolloff, which is why it is not on the speaker itself. It is really the same in either case, but it needs to have some kind of crossover to filter out the low frequencies. You shouldn't need an extra cap because there should be a properly rated crossover/soldered on cap already. In the rare case that there isn't there or you want a custom crossover frequency, there are calculators/equations to figure out what kind of cap is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 Forgot the optical tweeter protection in most good seperate tweeters and cross-overs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 Forgot the optical tweeter protection in most good seperate tweeters and cross-overs. I did not realize that there was another level of protection in those crossovers. It makes sense that it would usually not be needed in OEM tweeters because the power output of the headunit wouldn't exceed the tweeter's rating, but it could become a problem in aftermarket systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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