D!MK@ Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 What kind of oils and fluids you are using and why? Which one is better, your oppinion. For example I use CASTROL EDGE SPORT 0W-40 http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdeta...ntentId=7027054 For Automatic Transaxle Valvoline Dura Blend DEXRON III / MERCON / MERCON V ATF. Brake Fluid Castrol Response Dot 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Mobil1 5w-30 synthetic I use it because its the best, I have ZERO oil burnoff, it protects well, keeps things moving smoothly and in all my cars has worked the best.I was extremely displeased with royal purple. In my Jeep is ran rougher, a bit hotter, maybe some burn off and cost more. I'm considering switching to the valvoline fully synethetic in march when the millenia under goes its next change. Transmissions - mobil1 fully synethetic Brakes DOT4/5 valvoline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Mobil1 5w-30 synthetic I use it because its the best, I have ZERO oil burnoff, it protects well, keeps things moving smoothly and in all my cars has worked the best.I was extremely displeased with royal purple. In my Jeep is ran rougher, a bit hotter, maybe some burn off and cost more. I'm considering switching to the valvoline fully synethetic in march when the millenia under goes its next change. Transmissions - mobil1 fully synethetic Brakes DOT4/5 valvoline DOT4/5? They say DO NOT use dot4 in a dot3 system!! I use M1 HM. I will try amsoil for the next change. EDGE can be good to try as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ing-schu@online.no Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Castrol Magnatec 5w-40, change every 15k km, 1,5 litre topup. Shell ATF Dexron III, flush every 60k km. Brake fluid Jurid not Dot5, replaced every 2 years. Proper alloy approved coolant replaced every 3ish years. 95 Ron gas, topped up as needed. Hot coffee for the driver, topped up as needed . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 I have upgraded brakes, but have used DOT4 in my jeep before with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ing-schu@online.no Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 DOT 5 does not mix with conventional fluid. It prevents corrosion but is by nature not entirely withstanding pressure without decreasing its volume slightly, bad idea unless spongy brakes is the goal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 I just recently switched to Shell Rotella T synthetic oil in a 5w-40 weight. I chose it because it was readily available in the weight that I wanted and it is supposed to be very good oil. I have Valvoline Dot 3/4 synthetic brake fluid, the Dot 5 said not to use for Dot 3 or 4 systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 5w-40? so basically totally the wrong weight oil 10w-30 and 5w-30 are plenty easy to find. 40 should only be used on extremely high mileage engines that are worn and experiencing leaks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 5w-40? so basically totally the wrong weight oil 10w-30 and 5w-30 are plenty easy to find. 40 should only be used on extremely high mileage engines that are worn and experiencing leaks The 2.3 is really hard on oil, I plan to add an aftermarket oil cooler at some point to help with it. 5w-40 is a perfect weight for the application, It heats up enough that it is probably around 30 weight at operating temp anyways. 5w helps with the cold starts. I go through much less oil with 40 weight than 30 weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ing-schu@online.no Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 The 2,3 also has solid lifters. I agree 5w-40 is an ideal viscosity. I've used the Magnatec through 5 -6 changes without any issues, and my engine has HLAs. Next change will be with Castrol SLX Professional though, 5w-30. It's funny how Mazda says only 5w-30 or 10w-30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 The 2,3 also has solid lifters. Why would it need 5w-40 then? Magnatec is not available here, and gtx sucks. EDGE is at least the same name. Do you know anything about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ing-schu@online.no Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 The 2,3 also has solid lifters. Why would it need 5w-40 then? Magnatec is not available here, and gtx sucks. EDGE is at least the same name. Do you know anything about it? Here Edge is the top notch Castrol series. I've never used it, through the years I've used GTX3, TXT, SLX, Magnatec and now SLX Professional. GTX3 was dino. The others fully synthetic part from the TXT I used a couple of decades ago, which according to label was synthetic based. Read semi synthetic. Good oil though. Before Edge showed up, SLX was top notch. But the Magnatec is rated slightly higher by API than SLX Professional today... It is a jungle. Add brand specific oils in the SLX range and the confusion is complete. For example they have developed an own SLX for Vastewagen/Audi to avoid their POS pumpdüse TDI engines from breaking down even earlier than usual. I realize your Magnatec 10w-40 is not synthetic. Should still be a decent oil though. Here the Magnatec comes in 3 viscosities, of which two are fully synthetic. I've used 5w-40, as the listed 5w-30 does not seem to be availible. I really can't understand why the whole range is not availible in NA. Why it would need 5w-40? My point is the HLA's in the 2,5 are not too keen on thick oil, as opposed to HLA's in older engines like a pushrod US V8. Now since the 2,3 has solid lifters, there is no need to worry about valve tic due to clogged HLAs. And in spite of what factory recommends, I believe a HP engine benefits from a 40 grade oil if driven hard. The recommendation may easily be a result of wanting to keep it simple and stick to the same grade for every engine. It should be added though, our engines have an oil/coolant heat exchanger. Both for engine and tranny actually. Pretty neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D!MK@ Posted July 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 No body use Original Mazda oil "DEXLIA"??? http://www.total.be/be/content/NT0000C5F6.pdf Mazda Dexelia equal Product ELF Mazda Dexelia Ultra 5w30 equal ELF Evolution SXR 5W30 Mazda Dexelia Plus 5w40 equal ELF Excellium LDX 5W40 Mazda Dexelia 10w40 equal ELF Competition STI 10W40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 I do love it when people that have no engineering background think they know better then the people that designed it 10w-30 reg 5w-30 synethetic - temp dependent. I don't think the 2.3 is hard on oil, but since my oil only goes 500-900 miles before being changed, never driven in below 40 degrees at most, and damn sure never driven in temps about 85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ing-schu@online.no Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 I'm no automotive engineer but anyone claiming a dino 10w-30 is better than a fully synthetic 5w-30 in hot weather surely has not much clue either. And that is in fact what the manual says. In real life a 5w-30, or even a 0w-30, offers superior protection over a 10w-30 dino when the going gets tough. Another example: Mazda recommends 5w-20 in the RX8 in NA, in spite of numerous engines seizing up. Reason? To keep emissions lowest possible. In Europe it is supposed to be fed with 5w-30 and seems to run mainly troublefree. So no, I don't trust Mazda recommendations. And BHR, you may just as well fill up your engine till you see the level under the filler cap. With diesel. It will prevent internal rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 I was not claiming it was better, I'm simply saying if you use reg then 10w-30 is best, if using syn then 5w-30 is best Thats it, 10w-40 = murder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ing-schu@online.no Posted July 28, 2009 Report Share Posted July 28, 2009 10w-30 reg 5w-30 synethetic - temp dependent. You said synthetic is temp dependent. Not as much so as regular. Synthetic is better when it is cold. And it is better when it is hot. It is also better when it is neither hot nor cold. It takes no engineer to determine that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 indeed, if you have very hot weather you should still go with a 10w-30 never a 40 weight very very cold weather, as in never going above 20 degrees I would recommend 5w-20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D!MK@ Posted July 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Who knows what capacity brake system, how many liters ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ing-schu@online.no Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 I'm sorry to say your recommendations in this matter will not be estimated. And it's no indeed, because 5w-30 which is likely to be synthetic is better in warm weather than 10w-30 which is likely to be dino. How many times do I have to repeat it for you to comprehend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 I'm sorry to say your recommendations in this matter will not be estimated. And it's no indeed, because 5w-30 which is likely to be synthetic is better in warm weather than 10w-30 which is likely to be dino. How many times do I have to repeat it for you to comprehend? Bhr doesnt know about oil because he doesnt need any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ing-schu@online.no Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Nope. I trust BHRs judgement regarding two things; car detailing and maple syrup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Nope. I trust BHRs judgement regarding two things; car detailing and maple syrup. I trust him on HIDs also Who knows what capacity brake system, how many liters ? I don't know the exact capacity, but if you buy one of the larger bottles or two of the smaller bottles of brake fluid you will have plenty to do a full brake bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 I don't need oil because I keep it at the correct level, grade, and never ever abuse my car by going even 4500 miles xedos has struck a cord though, its been a while since I'v had pancakes with some good maple syrup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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