DoN_BLaZe34 Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 So I dropped the car off to the dealer yesterday because my ABS light has been coming on from quite some time. Turns out whenever I get up to around 40-50 mph the light will come on and stay on. They've looked at it and are saying it's the sensor (I think it's the right side, I need to confirm) and the ABS rotor back. All and all they want to charge me $646.55 plus tax. They also recommend a brake fluid flush. What are your thoughts? Here's the breakdown ABS Sensor - $217.93 ABS Rotor Back - $59.07 Expedited shipping (b/c they never have Milly parts in stock) - $41 Labor - $328 Brake fluid flush - $120 Grand Total - $766 plus tax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 I think that sensor is very common is mazdas, so it should be very easy to find used (search part # on ebay). There is a document called ABS/TCS troubleshoot. Try to find it and check the sensor yourself. I remember it tests something above some certain speed and throws a code if something is wrong. It would be insane to pay $700+ for this problem IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 You can also ohm it, but it sounds like it might be intermittent, so it could still test fine. The connectors are on the 4 corners of the car, under the hood by the fuse box, over by the passenger strut tower, and in the trunk behind the trunk liner on either side. It will be 2 wires, probably black and white. Disconnect it and measure the resistance of the end that goes to the wheel. The manual says 1.6-2.0 kohm, but all the ones I have tested on 3 different Millenias were all around 1.4 kohms and were good sensors. So as long as its in that range it should be ok. I have a feeling it has to be the rotor or the sensor, and the rotor is very unlikely. I wouldn't let them do the job, but if you do, at least take off the $120 brake bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoN_BLaZe34 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 Lol, Matt on .org you said I should do it, you're changing your mind now?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 Oh btw, I remember when I disconnect the sensor the code pops right up. It doesnt wait for some certain speed. My brother had to change the ABS/TCS unit with similar and more problems. Ask MTS about the guide, there was something with the speed.. http://www.mazdaworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=1396 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoN_BLaZe34 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 baaaaaaaaah i can't access the pictures here at work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 Lol, Matt on .org you said I should do it, you're changing your mind now?? On both I was saying not to do it, but I also wanted to warn you that if it were the rear and you were going to try to tackle it yourself that you would most likely run into that problem. If you were going to go to them I was recommending you refuse the brake bleeding and the ABS rotor. But now finding out it is the front anyway it should be easy enough to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoN_BLaZe34 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 You can also ohm it, but it sounds like it might be intermittent, so it could still test fine. The connectors are on the 4 corners of the car, under the hood by the fuse box, over by the passenger strut tower, and in the trunk behind the trunk liner on either side. It will be 2 wires, probably black and white. Disconnect it and measure the resistance of the end that goes to the wheel. The manual says 1.6-2.0 kohm, but all the ones I have tested on 3 different Millenias were all around 1.4 kohms and were good sensors. So as long as its in that range it should be ok. I have a feeling it has to be the rotor or the sensor, and the rotor is very unlikely. I wouldn't let them do the job, but if you do, at least take off the $120 brake bleeding. got the car back...the report shows that it is in fact the right front wheel speed sensor as well as the right front axle ring..i'll have to do my own inspection tomorrow after work since it's dark out now..i miss daylight savings right about now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 don, while normally I would say dealer that price is crazy for the sensor, on my Jeep 1 went bad and the part was 50ish, but the labor rate was charged at 30 minutes, I did it myself in about 15, very very easy. flushing brakes is super easy, even I do it myself. You should be able to find the sensor for hella cheap, like I said mine was 50ish, and that was oem purchased from a dealer, try online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 I already posted this somewhere else, so this is just for future reference for someone else who may find this. The OEM sensors are about $150 each at parts.com, aftermarket sensors are over $200. The front should be very easy, and the rear sensors (at least in my experience) usually break off when you try to remove them. I have broken 3 sensors at the junkyard and on my own. I think the only way to get it out once it breaks is to pull off the brakes and the wheel hub assembly and hammer / drill out the remaining part of the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 hella expensive, but SUPER easy, should just be a single bolt holding them in, worst case is you use some brake cleaner first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 hella expensive, but SUPER easy, should just be a single bolt holding them in, worst case is you use some brake cleaner first Fronts should be very easy, which is the case here. But just for informational purposes, on the Millenia the sensors go through the back of the knuckle on the rear and they freeze up into the hole. When you pull it out they break in two and makes a 10 minute job into a 1+ hour job involving a lot more tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 They hardly ever go bad. And not super hard to change. Under these circumstances my way is to buy used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoN_BLaZe34 Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Yeah the more I thought about it, the more I realized Mazda was trying to rape me. Matt did in fact point out a much cheaper place to get the sensors at $150..thank you for that. I'll be buying it from there... I wanna look at it myself but I haven't had time with work and running around..at this point I'm debating just buying a whole new axle as opposed to just that abs rotor..if I'm not mistaken parts.com had it for like $95 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted October 3, 2009 Report Share Posted October 3, 2009 don, its so easy I didn't even think twice about doing it myself, the only difference on a millenia is you should take the wheel off. On a lifted jeep I just park, remove, and go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excluesiveonez Posted October 6, 2009 Report Share Posted October 6, 2009 don, if you get the parts and want a shop to do it, let me give a number to my guy down in philly. he's the man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginph Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 I removed the wheel in the weekend and look at the sensor as well. It looks straightforward to change, 10-15 minutes maybe. No idea about breaking stuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 the biggest pain is following the wiring to the connector and undoing it, all of that is really just a matter of how far up the car is jacked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoN_BLaZe34 Posted October 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 i took saint's advise and bought a used front right sensor..like you guys were saying, changing it was very straight forward BUT the "new" sensor did not stop the light from coming on... so now it's looking like it may be the rotor...although from what I looked ia, it looked fine to me..contemplating my next step while looking over the abs/tcs troubleshooting guide MTS provided.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 I am assuming that Mazda made the call based on the code that they read. I hope so anyway. So I would measure the gap between the sensor and rotor to make sure it is right and clean the rotor with a wire brush and brake cleaner. Replacing just the rotor will be a huge pain, you will have to decide if its worth it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoN_BLaZe34 Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Yeah I was thinking the same thing..in terms of the dealership just reading whatever code popped up..I'll have to take another look tomorrow and try your recommendation for cleaning off the rotor..I was mad about this light before, but now I'm gettin pissed.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 I really can't imagine that the rotor would be bad unless it was damaged. All it does is rotate and the sensor produces a signal from the teeth passing by. If the teeth are all there, not chipped, or not extremely dirty, I doubt that replacing it will even solve the problem. After it is clean, you should be able to use those thin metal shims to measure the gap, they are probably a few dollars at sears or an auto parts store. If all that checks out, I would be a little skeptical that replacing the rotor would actually solve the problem, especially with the labor involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoN_BLaZe34 Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 I hear you man..I'll just have to look it over thoroughly and see..at this point I really am baffled..if is it in fact the rotor, than I'll be better off just changing the whole axle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted October 8, 2009 Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 Don, Its RARE for a sensor to be dirty enough to cause issues, it should be a magnetic thing. Some people on JU have had to clean theres out after driving through a swamp for half a day, but thats it. If you had a much more advanced reader, like a solaris or something you can drive the car and see what every sensor is reading, if 1 wheel reads no speed or off from the other you know beyonda doubt its the sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoN_BLaZe34 Posted October 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2009 car is currently with my local mechanic to look at..stay tuned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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