Jdubs99 Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 The way home from work last night, both the TCS off and TCS light came on. Anytime I tried to go over 2.5k rpm, i got fuel cut. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted October 29, 2007 Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 Vacuum Lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted October 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 No, already dealt with those. Might have to triple check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted October 29, 2007 Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 son of a bitch, this happened to someone and I forget who, I know there is a thread with the answer, I seem to remember its a single vacuum line somewhere, I think lat has the answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted October 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 Pulled codes again today. Â P0170 P0173 P1540 Â I had the codes cleared and arrived home. Looks like one of the vacuum hoses came loose, so I secured it. I'm guessing that was the reason for the P1540. The line came loose from the horizontal sensor thats to the left of the "block" on top of the supercharger plenum. Â Anyone have any ideas on a progressive issue for a P0170 and a P0173? Oil fouling from VCG? Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted October 29, 2007 Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 I think that getting both the P0170 and P0173 at the same time means vac lines, so it probably came from the same loose vacuum line as the P1540 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Well, fuck. I can't really miss anymore school as a consequence of this problem with the car. Getting to work isn't a problem, as getting up to speed under 2.5 rpm SHOULD the lights happen isn't a problem. The highway is another matter. MTS told me the story of fuel cut kicking in, and I don't feel like dying in traffic. Â The vacuum lines are correct, next logical step is the EGR. Gonna clean the shit out of it and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 You have a vac line that has come off, or one of the ABV solenoids has crapped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mase64 Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 yea my car is starting to give me problems now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Is there any way to determine which one has gone bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Measure the resistance cross the posts... it should be between 22-26 OHM... I will look around, I know I have the specs somewhere.  Here, this should help    [attachmentid=837]  dtc_p1525_p1526_p1540.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 EGR looks fine. testing ABVs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Facing the car, the first one on the left tested at 37 ohms. I guess replace? Â NM, tested the wrong one. Facing the front of the car, tested the rightmost valve (ABV). Tested at 31 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Sounds like it is failing.... they are cheap at Mazda.... and there is actually a part number for the complete assembly, or buy each valve separate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Just got back from the junkyard, they had a complete 98 S. The engine wasn't pulled, supercharger is intact.  I managed to get Solenoids from two cars, about 8 total. I also picked up another EGR valve, sail panels, 2 MAF sensors, MAF grommet, and rear IC housing for a grand total of 30 bucks.  Trying the replace and see method right now. I switched out the ABC Solenoid vacuum side, still getting low idle.  I called the Mazda dealer to check on costs, 70 apiece in my area.  I'm going to try to replace each of them and see what happens. It looks like the battery disconnect method is working for clearing the lights.  As I'm going down the list here...  Vacuum lines- replacing as many as possible tonight (one tube at a time) EGR- cleaned, looks fine ABV solenoids  Heading up to the store for more silicon tubing right now, updates as I start the process of elimination.   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2007 Update- Replaced ALL the vacuum lines, replaced the ABV solenoid vacuum side and ABV solenoid vent. I reset via battery, and drove the car for about 10 minutes. I have no CELs, but I noticed that across the powerband the engine is hesitating and the low idle is still present. Â I guess I'll see tomorrow what kind codes pop up if any. At this point, I'm thinking O2 or fuel system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted November 2, 2007 Report Share Posted November 2, 2007 Sweet.... Â as for the hesitation.... when did you change the plugs? O2 sensors should be throwing codes if bad... but a dirty fuel filter could also cause hesitation. Â Where is this junkyard with 2 Millies? DAMN Â How much would they let go the S/C? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 O2 sensors can be bad without being "bad". I did a lot of reading last night, and 02 sensors can have the cermaics displaced. This means that the computer can read the output as being ok, but not actually doing its job. My gas mileage has been shitty since the problems, who knows. Â Anyway, my milly stalled out at the busiest intersection of town on the way to work today. I managed to limp the car through erratic idle speed to my pop's work. Unfortunately, he was at lunch, and I can't enter a government facility. Forgot my cellphone also. I ended up at a warehouse, and someone at work came to get me. Â I looked at my work from last night, and I offer a word of caution on silicon hose replacement. The wall strength of silicon tubing in bends is NOT GOOD. The strength of the vacuum caused coming off the CAC solenoid collapsped the silicon tubing before the angled T-tap. I had the car towed back to my house tonight. She's dumping gas in the cylinders like crazy. Â I'm going to replace the vacuum line in question tomorrow morning with regular tubing, and inspect the rest of the plumbing for issues. DO NOT USE SILICON TUBING IF YOU ARE REPLACING THE RATS NEST BEHIND THE SOLENOIDS. Â I still have not addressed the main issue of the CEL, and I'm about ready to give up the ghost and take it to the stealership for diagnosis. I'm going to replace the fuel filter tomorrow. I'll probably have the fuel pressure checked while it's there. I guess we'll see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 Get those hoses changed and see what happens... make sure you have them all in the right places this time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 Funny, I used silicone on ALL of my hoses; blue even, last weekend. It drives like a dream. Â The only problem I have is hesitation under pressure (only when I floor it). Otherwise GREAT. No CELs. Â I'd double check the vacuum lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2007 Eh, i did use 3A racing tubing, so who knows. I replaced the fuel filter (had never been done judging by the amount of dirt on the old filter. The fuel that dumped out of the old filter had a definate brown color to it. I noticed that when the engine hits operating temperature the larger tube connected from the ABV to the PCV is also collapsing. Back to the parts store tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted November 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 ABV to PVC replaced. I noticed when I was doing this it sounds like I have an air leak somewhere around the throttle body. Guess I will checkcing more lines tomorrow around the throttle body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazdaMomma Posted November 5, 2007 Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 good luck and keep us posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frankzao Posted November 5, 2007 Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 I am using the 4mm silicone tubing from boostcontroller.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt64341 Posted November 5, 2007 Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 the silicon tube from boostcontroller.com is supposed to be thicker than standard tubing, so it should be fine to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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