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      Online source for ALL Mazda OEM parts.

      Original posted by "Anubis"   HAH! forget millenia. it has it for every mazda ever made. (well most )   here is the website:   http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...p;siteid=214264   enjoy guys.   *Administrative pin - Synesthesia
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///BHRpowered

Audio Reconfiguration

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So I'm wondering what everyones take and recommendations would be.

 

Currently I have 2 500w JL audio 12" subs, they don't seem to be hitting as hard but that could be the amp, maybe in the cap - both of which are around 7-6 years old. When they did work it was always more then I needed, so I'm wondering if it would be worth it to downsize to a single 12" and a different, smaller amp?

 

Also, I would love to dynomat my entire trunk, and the doors. taking everything out this would be the ideal time, any idea how much a shop would charge to do the entire trunk?

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It is too fucking easy.... peel the backing off, stick it on, and mould it with a heat gun/hair dryer.

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How much of the trunk though? I mean sure the whole floor, but what about the sides and taking all the trim and stuff off. I'm more worried about the dynomat being to thick to get the original trim back in place and secure, especially on the trunk lid

 

I wish jdubs had been able to do it at MWM07

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My trunk liner still fits on.... but it is not the frame that rattles, just the panel. So I only did the holes in the trunk lid frame... ie on the body panel itself. FYI a 3" square Dynomat will stop a body panel from vibrating. But to stop sound passage you must do as much as you can. BUT will my 1200W amp and 2 10" Clarion drivers, my organs shake when inside and it makes the voice box shake and talking sounds funny , but if you get out of the car and close all the doors and trunk. You can barely hear the sound, you feel the thump, and the license plate cover rattles a bit. I only Dynomatted what I could get to, with removing all of the trunk liner, only removed the trunk lid liner.

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ok .. as MTS says its an easy job!remove the carpet from the trunk.. get a good small roller+ dynomat then go to town. I put dynomat extreme in my car and worked out wonderfully. Be prepared to get in the trunk to get to some spots! Also for putting back you liner/carpet, keep a screw driver around so you can poke wholes if need be. Trunk should not take you too long, about an hour- 2 hours. OH FYI a dryer wont work if your thinking to use that to heat it up. Needs to be a heat gun! Cut a small piece separate from the rest to go on the fuel filler!

 

Now as for the doors. Just be care not to stick any wires or cover up window motor up cause if you do, it will be a pain to get it off again if the motor were to go bad! and pop holes where the trim goes back on. All 4 doors should be about 2-3 hours so if you do it on a saturday afternoon you would be good! USE A ROLLER WHEN APPLYING... dont know how to express this enough

 

now as far as your subs... personally I dont like a lot of bass so I would say go with 1 12 Sub and a smaller amp or maybe even 1 10 sub and small amp. I know there are deals on crutchfield. Depends on what you are listening to and such. I know when I listen to trance and eurobeat i keep the bass at a middle level when I had my 12's in mine. Wish I had never did a huge system in my car now but young and stupid lol

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Don't get the brownbread type dynamat, get the Xtreme. It can be applied with a roller, preferably when the temp is above 70 degrees. Cleaning the surfaces with *This reference banned by MW* also helps. Most audio shops are going to charge by the hour. If the rear of the car is already disassembled, go for the lowest bidder, and make sure the installer is using a roller. If the material isn't making contact with metal, it isn't working.

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Or yourself.... the same.... it is not rocket science

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Not a big fan of having someone else disassemble my car. 30% of the time friction clips will pull off the panel and fall behind the sheetmetal, 30% of the time it will mangle the clip holder, 30% of the time the installer will not properly refit it and/or not bother to put it back on.

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Case in point, noticed that the best recommended mechanic shop in the area did not use any brake grease on the brake job i paid for. Having to redo the brake job as well as install the springs/shocks.

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bhr, if you are willing to travel to philadelphia, I have an audio shop that is more than competent to do everything for you. I know it is a bit of a trip, but this guy is the owner/installer/and everything. He won't fuck you on pricing and boy does he know his shit.

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and Im not a fan of messing with it and having the chance of anything go wrong.

 

today for exmaple I washed the millenia as well as some other things, including rerouting the main amp wiring, but I haven't yet figure out where I'm going to drill through the firewall, adjusted subs and tuned amp, moved some wires in the engine bay, but the whole thing is going to need some cleaning, there is no reason anything shouldn't look brand new

 

I also relocated the cig lighter, instead of just leaving it hidden behind dash to make room for push start I have access to it.

 

I'm not at all happy how the rotors which are zinc plated are starting to show mild signs of rust on the outer rim, bullshit I say.

 

more troubling are the battery and the engine bay sound deadener, I think my battery is getting old and would need to be replaced for any trip. I drove the millenia on wednesday, about 30 miles etc, when I returned I did not put the battery charger on and today it was extremely slow crank and barely got it started, and then drove weird for a bit until it was heated up and I guess charged up. And the god damn sound deadener, what the fuck is it with that shit, it seems every time I drive it its worked its way past another clip, on one I even have an extra bridge and it gets past that. only thing I can think of is that at highway speed air is getting under and forcing it down somehow, wicked annoying and makes it look like shit.

 

I'm also tempted to remove it on the pillars in the engine bay, mine is in better shape then anyones I have ever seen, and yet next to the battery its starting to rub off a bit

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