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1998 Mazda Eunos 500


Troutman
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Well, I picked it up today at long last - and I'd forgotten how much more challenging manual is to drive. The 2 litre V6 is a highlight of the package, being quiet yet aurally pleasing compared to most 4 cylinders. It certainly likes to rev and pulls smoothly. The car's equipment levels are good too, including ABS, climate control and fog lights. There are many shared parts with the 800, including the steering wheel (ironically the Eunos 800 by '98 had a 323-derived wheel as some sort of cost-cutting measure).

 

One bug to be ironed out is driveline shuddering at certain lower revs under load - which I presume is a clutch issue but can't say for sure.

 

Here is the original dealership pic.

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Presently it sits alongside its larger sibling.

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And since these pics aren't very good, here is a modified example from Cardomain. As much as I am over this stuff.

 

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My first priority is to (unfortunately) abort my Ford Falcon turbo project and part it out, sell my faithful Ford Laser runabout, and then decide which Eunie to keep. The 800 is in better condition, and far more special. However to keep running it would easily run up a 5-figure bill, and then there is the higher theft risk etc. So it will probably be the 500 just so I can start to recover from debts. The 800 is running great though, it turns out the intermittent problem that plagued it for years was just the damn spark plugs which some fatass mechanic had failed to change at the appropriate interval. It will be missed, but life goes on. :trout:

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That is a handsome couple indeed!

 

Driving a manual is no problem once getting used to it, comes natural as breathing. Main thing is to slip the clutch only when launching for longevity, be sure to adjust engine speed to avoid slippage when changing gears, unless racing/ rapid changing of course. And for heavens sake, avoid using the clutch as a break pedal when downchanging, blip the throttle. The shuddering you describe might come from a misfire at certain engine speeds I suppose, or a bad mount, the engine should be ultrasmooth from idle and up even during load, no 4banger misbehaviour below 1500 rpm.

 

To test the clutch, follow this procedure: drive about 70 km/h in top gear, apply full throttle and kick in the clutch to the bottom and remove the foot from the pedal immediately. The rpms should go straight back to whatever reading, like 2000 rpm or less. If any slippage occurs, the clutch is bad.

 

I would have kept both if possible, quite uniqe on the driveway :thumbup1:

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Trout you may have a throw out bearing falling ill in the transmission and that makes the transmission vibrate under no load, especially when in neutral position with the clutch not depressed.

 

But what a beautiful pair to have in the driveway.... BHR should be envious of you now.. :shifty:

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Cheers guys!

 

¬ ¬

\__/

 

Xedie, I'll try that test... I am already much better at driving manual. I was always paranoid about reversing into the car behind on hill starts, but getting over it. It certainly takes off when given a few revs before launch. :)

 

MTS, it was actually shuddering under hard-ish acceleration at low revs, but today when driving I didn't notice it. So I have ample time to figure it out - I figured it was to do with clutch alignment.

 

I hope to keep the 800 for at least another month now, mainly so I can get some better pics of the pair of them. :wub:

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Change oil... now that is a damn good idea... I just bought my first fully synthetic engine oil... time for synthetic transmission fluid next. :D

 

It's less realistic on an auto because a) they have higher capacities so it would cost heaps, and B) it's a bit of a pain to get all the old fluid out of the torque convertor.

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