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Am I Seeing Things Right? Error Code On Xedos


cuto
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Just tried it. Not a blinking light on the dash... hope i jumped the right terminals (my diag port does not have any terminal diagram), i followed a diagram found in obd1 codes pdf. Can anyone confirm these are the right terminals to jump?

 

Here's a pic (clip is on the bottom second terminal (TEN?) and on the farther right one on the above row (GRD?)

IPB Image

 

Note: as for the position of the terminals, my diag port is parallel to the firewall, hence the diagram posted on the forum must be rotated 45º to the left....i think. :>

 

Here's the diagram:

http://codes.rennacs.com/plugins/MazdaEFI/...-10-2-Mazda.php

 

 

Ok...here's an exact match of my diag port

IPB Image

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I think you have it backwards, I cant really tell to well in your pic but I think you have to turn the diagram to the right, and jump A and B with a LED tester or voltmeter like it says.

 

Wait, I thought you didnt even have a CEL bulb? So Im pretty sure you need an LED tester or voltmeter.

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BTW my brother's xedos does not have a CEL. He double checked it. I told it had before, sorry for this..

 

Yes i know that. I think i've shorted the right terminals. Didn't connect the led to terms A and B because as you can see on that youtube video on my 1st post, the guy is pulling out codes both from a led and the HOLD light...gonna get a led too.

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I think you have it backwards, I cant really tell to well in your pic but I think you have to turn the diagram to the right, and jump A and B with a LED tester or voltmeter like it says.

 

Wait, I thought you didnt even have a CEL bulb? So Im pretty sure you need an LED tester or voltmeter.

 

Steve, that is exactly right, as you can see my diag port is 45º to the right (parallel to the firewall), so i think i got both TEN and GRND terminals jumped.

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BTW my brother's xedos does not have a CEL. He double checked it. I told it had before, sorry for this..

 

Thanks for confirming this, as it really stumped me.

 

Cuto, once again, cred for the info you find! :thumbup1:

 

I am at a loss to see the similarity out of the pics and the links, but I just looked briefly. I did establish last spring that there is no numbering in the diagnosis connector. Stupid I say. Anyway, I didn't have balls to guess which ones to short, and got the codes read in a local shop prior to replacing the knock sensor.

 

If you want to verify it actually works, you could always fabricate an error. For example by dismantling an O2 sensor, or popping off a vacuum hose somewhere.

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As far as I can tell it looks like you have it jumped correctly. In the link you posted it says

 

"If after you turn the ignition ON does not show that it is outputtting any data there are either NO fault codes OR the vehicle has not been put into diagnostics mode correctly. To test the connection generate a fault code by disconnecting the airflow meter or throttle position sensor, crank or run the engine and re-run the Test."

 

but it also says in step 3 to "Ground the green single connector as shown in the diagram" and I do not know what they are referring to for that. If you connect an analog voltmeter or LED tester across the + and - with that pin jumped you should get your codes. You could also try a digital meter across the + and - pins and see if your hold light flashes, but do not use a jumper wire or you could short it out and cause damage.

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I think i really got the terminals right, there is only one row with 7 terminals and another with 4 that is just above that one. So...it might be good. Tomorrow i will try to get the EGR disconnected and see if any code is flashed on the dash by the hold light.

 

@X-man: if it works...i'll send you a vid...in trade of another bottle of that weak stuff you sent me :P

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  • 5 months later...

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