Jdubs99 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 Went for a *Reference banned from MW* run on my day off, and got hit with rough idle on start up. CEL lit up about 5 minutes later. I checked the vacuum lines, solenoids were just replaced. Removed the the spark plugs, and 2/6 plugs were swimming in oil. Judging from the looks of the plug wells I've got leaks from the vcg. I need some suggestions on a quality vcg and silicon. Secondary question, what are the chances my plugs are done for after getting fouled? Tertiary question, what are the chances the fouled plugs have taken out one of the coil packs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 Unlikely they did damage to the coils plugs should be replaced, but do all 6 since you'll be in there anyway VCG's seem to be coming about as a major problem, most people have agreed the best thing you can do is get a factory gasket and that its design, not the seal causing leaks. MWM08!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted July 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 I can't attend this year. I was barely able to afford summer intercession classes, and now i have this repair. I'm heading up to Advance Auto right now to get an engine compression gauge. I'm gonna try to figure out what the state of my KJ is while it's mostly apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 Xedosman wrote a very nice write up on replacing a vcg. Make sure you use gasket sealant with a high resistance to high temps. And also make sure you follow the order in which you suppose to tighten the VC screws. I believe thats right, ill double check in my workshop manual later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 if X wrote it up it is for the KL motor, just make sure it is the same as your KJ. Are you getting codes for bad coils? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 I have not seen any write up's for the S yet, sure would like to see them if I haveto undertake this in the distant future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 It is in the manual you have downloaded.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 haven't had time to fully look through it, and I didn't see many color pictures or guides of as high quality as xedos, besides its just better hearing it from someone who's done it instead of some jackass who reverse engineered it during design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted July 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I do have a code throwing, but i decided backtracking symptops to a condition might be a good idea, hence the compression gauge. Anyone know the factory spec psi per cylinder? If anyone knows the trigger wire for the starter near the fusebox that would help me out also. A valve issue I might be able to deal with, but if the head is gone, the S is heading back to the farm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I project attending MWM08 will personally cost me around 750 dollars, you should be there for only a fraction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted July 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I really wish i could, but I have to magically come up with 6000 to attend and finish school next semester. I'll have to collect on the gas wager next year, no big commitments next summer or fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted July 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 Just did the compression test on each cylinder... 185 195 195 O O O O O O 208 180 200 Judging from the readings and taking wear into account, I'm guessing that 240-220 is the normal measurement for a fresh from the factory engine. Judging from what I've read so far about valve leaks and doing the compression check, the VCG should have been replaced a long time ago (prior to me owning it), and possible valve problems on the upper left and bottom middle cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 people have suggested they be changed every 60k on a mazda engine... although I don't think that would have any effect on a compression test, that should be cylinders only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 Those are really high compression numbers for an S. Iirc, they should be between 150-160psi. And the variance in the numbers isn't too encouraging either, the max variance among the cylinders should only be 15psi, you're pushing nearly double that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I thought high compression was good? If so, what could cause an engines compression to increase? Still a student.... And yes 28psi difference between your highest and lowest compression does sound pretty bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latinopikachu Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 im upset my vcgs are leaking again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSter Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 Same here. This must be a problem with Mazda's, I wonder why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 Not just Mazdas.... just aluminum in general Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 Never a problem with Jeep.... and why are yours leaking again, I thought you just changed them, sounds like you didn't do it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 Only variables i can figure are... Engine wasn't warm (damn near impossible to disassemble the car in time to run a compression check under warm conditions) Intercoolers weren't connected (not possible to get access to sparkplug wells otherwise) Oil from the leakage got into the combustion chambers overnight and pooled causing a false reading on each cylinder I dunno guys, need some ideas, i don't have the $$ to make this a project car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mts Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 CHange the VCG... new plugs... see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renboy Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 Oil from the leakage got into the combustion chambers overnight and pooled causing a false reading on each cylinder This is most likely the source of the problem. Oil is put into cylinders to find out if it's the valves or rings that are leaking. Here, it's just screwing with your results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 I put the engine back together, massive blue smoke for about 2 minutes. No cel, no rough idle. Took it for a 3 mile run with no issues except the loping at high rpm that it had before. I'm gonna let it sit for a few hours and start it up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
///BHRpowered Posted July 23, 2008 Report Share Posted July 23, 2008 did you already replace the gaskets and plugs? or just put it back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubs99 Posted July 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2008 I had intended to put it back together and drive it up to autozone to pull a code. I'm guessing enough oil had filled up the wells that one or two plugs weren't able to maintain good connection with the coils, or enough oil had coked on the plugs themselves to maintain a spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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