Jump to content

Top Secret


Recommended Posts

yes, it may be possible. for the longest time the six (6) vacuum lines on the remaining resonator box have possed a problem. i have found a solution that doest require me to do a bunch of welding. A prototype is sure to come soon.

 

4 special order aluminum fittings with rubber grommet and 2 brass "custom fittings" i partially made at the home depot :)

IPB Image

 

IPB Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

STAGE 2 IS COMPLETE.

 

IPB Image

 

there is improved throttle response, especially between gears, the tranny seems to be shifting even smoother. It is also about 15-20% louder at full throttle :)

 

Unfortunetly this intake will not be available as a add-on to the stage 1 like i hoped. the downtube on the previous intake needed to be cut 3" and the sensor hole had to be moved. the wires for the sensor also had to be extended. parts were aquired from so many sources it also make it impractical to offer this intake for sale. I dont think the price would justify the performance gains. There was much more noticeable difference after installing stage 1.

 

I will get a sound clip soon......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:hmm:

 

why not tie it in to the stage 1? there must be a way, why not simply have a mid section where all the lines connect into, then use another bend to connect to manifold, and a connector, only thing I see is those with the stage 1 might have to trim the pipe a bit, but any saw can do that. Which wire has to be extended?

 

when you say louder, is it just the s/c or do you mean the entire engine, I would love to have the s/c sounding like a jet engine spooling up in high revs

 

from the manifold - bend, stage 2 midsection, connector w/bend, stage 1 from the MAF back?

 

How much would you charge for the stage 2 chitown? and all parts needed since it seems you added vacuum lines instead of tieing them all in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It in no way interfears with the rear intercooloer duct. in this pic you can see the bolt where the intercooler duct is connected (circled in green), i also circled where the sensor wire was extended because the stage 1 downpipe had to be cut 3" and the sensor lowered 3":

 

IPB Image

 

I thought i could get away with just doing a straight pipe but it just wouldnt work, As you can see in the vacuum box pic, it is very small only about 10" long. the part that connects to the throttle body acually goes over it and then is clamped on. If you take off the box and rotate the 90 degree silicone bend on the current intake there is only about 6" off space left to fit a coupler and a straight pipe with 6 vacuum hoses. It couldnt be done, the angle was also slightly off even after adding a 45 degree coupler to the throttle body, no amount of trimming the coupler would work to line it up, also the lines would then be difficult to run and get in the way of the rear intercooler duct.

 

IPB Image

 

I have no plans to sell the stage 2 intake but i can help people find the parts they need to upgrade to stage 2.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:hmm:

 

Perhaps combining the 2 together into a single pipe with connectors as needed?

 

 

not sure what you mean...

 

 

how much did it cost you to build?

 

I had most of the parts laying around but heres a rough estimate:

 

the fitting were ridiculous like $ 8 Ea

 

20 bucks in rubber tubing

 

20 bucks in alum tubing

 

30 bucks in grommets, one straight and one 45 degree, i took off the 90.

 

10 bucks at radio shack to extend the wiring.

 

10 bucks for two more clamps.

 

TOTAL: $138.00US

 

plus there was a lot of running around and trial and error, it took all day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VIDEO CLIP (on my way to the gas station, light just came on= 2 gallons in tank)

 

PIC WITH THE REAR INTERCOOLER DUCT ATTACHED: notice my "custom" bracket on the right attached to the tranny dipstick. i will fix that later...

IPB Image

 

PIC OF STAGE 1:

IPB Image

 

notice that in the stage 1 setup the 90 bend is under the duct, to just add a straight tube is a tight fit and the angle was slightly off. If you just add a straight tube all the vac lines (6) need to be under the duct and routed so the are not pinched. Diff hoses have diff bending restrictions, it will be tricky.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...