Seafoaming Deep Creep On Milly S

[milenkogt]

hey guys,

 

I've read the boards up and down searching about the seafoam effects, sounds like a good idea imo.

 

 

Although the one answer i didn't find is about high mileage...my millenia has 147,000 miles on it, but my father drove it from brand new to 2006 and always had scheduled oil changes, timing belt replacement, etc...was very meticulous with the car, and mostly low rpm highway commuter miles. THEN i got the car lol.

 

i drive the car with finesse no doubt, but i'm used to driving a 600rwhp mustang, so i take the milly S out andblow the carbon out on a daily basis. The car runs fine always used 93 octane and average 20 mpg in mostly city driving.

 

the only problem i've run into is when the a/c is on and only when, the car is really slow to accelerate and have to floor it sometimes. And some times the TCS lights come on and stay on with the check engine light.

 

NEVER does this when a/c is off.

 

Also, i did the bypass air charge valve mod, car seems to perform better, smoother acceleration and temp guage drops about a needle lower than usual unless sitting in traffic after then goes back up to just barely half guage.

 

 

So should i seafoam the milly or not? if so, thru the pcv or gas tank?

 

thanks,

 

 

 

 

 

[latinopikachu]

wait wait wait just one minute here

 

what bypass air charge mod are you speaking of, explain immediately, i have heard of no such thing

[aamerh]

pretty sure hes referring to this:

http://forums.forbidden/index.php?showtopic=27290

 

edit:

oh lol... the other mazda site is blocked from here...

[///BHRpowered]

I've seen the mod, and I still don't think its a good idea, the intercoolers are not exactly "bypassed" so to speak, the reason it helps with emissions is by basically flooding more air into the exhaust system and reducing the parts per million of whatever is being tested, IMO I'm suprised this is legal since the car still produces the same emissions...just covers them up

 

hotter means more complete burning, but the millenia is also known to have carbon problems, 90% of which are caused by using the wrong gas, or not letting hte cats heat up slowly (no idea what there problem is)

 

 

AS FOR SEAFOAM

the results on this are mixed, it cleans out carbon, but the downside is sometimes older vacuum lines have hairline cracked plugged by carbon and this opens them up. In general mazda engines seem to do better with seafoam then others, so I would recommend it, the only thing is make sure to do it after a drive and the cats really hot, otherwise you risk blocking them a bit

 

All V6's engines suffer when the A/C is on, it really robs power, mine was always noticeable slower at all speeds and rpm's with the a/c on, but it does give a nicer s/c whine. The TCS light and CEL should be taken care of, it could be anything from a connection to, well anything. If you have the code it'll tell you alot more.

 

If the TCS light starts to flash then your going to havea real problem is its transmission related, its possible having the a/c on and being down on power affects a speed sensor or something, but we need the code.

 

Run seafoam through the pvc, and some good injector cleaner through the gas tank.

[enginph]

MO did the mod.. And here is how it works..

 

[///BHRpowered]

indeed. I don't really see the point though, some people think its set high, but its almost exact where max power comes in on the millenia. I debated this awhile ago, but until I see better power throughout I'll keep it stock. I still think a good pair of intercooler sprayers is far better.

[milenkogt]

indeed. I don't really see the point though, some people think its set high, but its almost exact where max power comes in on the millenia. I debated this awhile ago, but until I see better power throughout I'll keep it stock. I still think a good pair of intercooler sprayers is far better.

 

Thanks for the input BHR, its so damn hott here in fl right now, get in the milly and you can almost feel skin peeling off when you touch the leather lol. so telling a difference with the bypass mod is usually when i drive at night when it has cooled off some.

 

I will get the CEL checked out at autozone and while i'm there pick up a bottle of seafoam and hope for the best.

I watched the youtube video of a guy with his two tone black/grey S using it, and said it vastly improved performance, i guess to each of their own.

 

 

BTW, i'm about to be another owner of Chi's CAI, should be arriving tues or wed of next week. The tranny cooler should be coming in around the same time so those installs should be pretty easy.

 

 

 

What line do I use to connect a boost gauge too?

 

 

 

[///BHRpowered]

IMO it should be preventive, if your gaining enough you can feel it then you need to check what gas your putting in and how your driving it, CEL code will help alot.

 

I would also be interested in knowing what line you connect to for boost gauge.

[latinopikachu]

i did the seafoam again on mine after a hard drive across town to celebrate the oil change and rewaxing this morning, no smoke

 

yet it insists on puffing black after restarting

 

damn thing

[///BHRpowered]

are you using say, regular grade gas?

[milenkogt]

are you using say, regular grade gas?

 

 

i got the codes and liquid seafoam

 

P0170

P0105

P0173

P1110

Fuel trims bank 1&2 and something with the IAT and the IAT on my car is plugged into the end of the filter. but the car runs perfectly and i always run 93 octane...nothing less.

[milenkogt]

just got done runing a 1/3 pint of the liquid seafoam thru my pcv, let it sit for 20mins. started it up and no white smoke at all...took it for a test run, no misses no hesitations.

 

 

so i guess i have a clean engine.

 

should i pour the rest into the gas tank and oil?

 

if i pour it in the oil do i have to change oil right away or no?

 

 

 

 

-----anyone know where i can hook up the boost guage???

[latinopikachu]

 

P0170

P0105

P0173

P1110

Fuel trims bank 1&2 and something with the IAT and the IAT on my car is plugged into the end of the filter. but the car runs perfectly and i always run 93 octane...nothing less.

 

p1110 is the dynamic chamber temp sensor.

 

Look at the plastic miller cover, over to the left top, on the IC piping, theres a sensor that sticks out like a nub, with a bolted base. Someone give me a picture of the engine and i iwll show you. Unscrew it and clean it, it's basiclaly a little nub that sticks into the IC piping.

 

 

and no, damn you bhr, ive been using premium only for the LONGEST time.

You TCS and TCS OFF lights will come on if you unplug this sensor and the car may die, like mine did when I unplugged it to see what would happen. Whenyou try to start it with the temp sensor disconnected, it will hesitate and then come to life but with a high idle and TCS/TCS OFF will be on. If the car doesnt know what temp the air in the chamber is it will act really screwy, i bet thats the base of you fuel trim problems. P0105 and p1110 i bet are related too.-+

[milenkogt]

 

P0170

P0105

P0173

P1110

Fuel trims bank 1&2 and something with the IAT and the IAT on my car is plugged into the end of the filter. but the car runs perfectly and i always run 93 octane...nothing less.

 

p1110 is the dynamic chamber temp sensor.

 

Look at the plastic miller cover, over to the left top, on the IC piping, theres a sensor that sticks out like a nub, with a bolted base. Someone give me a picture of the engine and i iwll show you. Unscrew it and clean it, it's basiclaly a little nub that sticks into the IC piping.

 

 

and no, damn you bhr, ive been using premium only for the LONGEST time.

You TCS and TCS OFF lights will come on if you unplug this sensor and the car may die, like mine did when I unplugged it to see what would happen. Whenyou try to start it with the temp sensor disconnected, it will hesitate and then come to life but with a high idle and TCS/TCS OFF will be on. If the car doesnt know what temp the air in the chamber is it will act really screwy, i bet thats the base of you fuel trim problems. P0105 and p1110 i bet are related too.-+

 

t

Cool cuz when i moved the IAT to the end of the K&N filter i had to cut a slot in the end of the filter to wedge it in there, it stays but its not getting an accurate reading and thats when the cel came on, so once i get CHI's intake everything should go back to normal.

 

 

---any clues on the boost guage anyone lol... i will post up pics if i can find out where the line is after install.

 

 

 

[latinopikachu]

i think what it does is evaluate everything and then adjust the abv itself, theres no specific "boost" line

[enginph]

correct grade is 89octane..

 

[///BHRpowered]

no saint, its not. just because the engine turns over doesn't mean its correct, prem only, infact 91 octane or more.

 

a drop in k&n filter shouldn't cause any modification, but the chitown intake works perfect, my only recommendation is to assemble most of it except for the filter first, then install on the car as 1 unit, much easier.

 

oh lat, when putting seafoam into the oil most people recommend doing it about 100 miles before an oil change

[latinopikachu]

yes i know

 

i did the pcv treatemtn

[///BHRpowered]

I went with the mazda air/fuel flush, I feel it produces much better results then seafoam.

[Renboy]

Okay, therea re some serious *misconceptions* (<-feeling polite today) here.

 

1) Black smoke is a result of carbon build up. And carbon build up is a result of various things, short trips, granny driving, rich running, HIGH OCTANE WHEN NOT NEEDED, retarded ignition timing, fouled plugs...etc.

 

2) You can hook a boost guage to any vacuum source provided it's not from a vacuum pump. Find one of the vacuum lines that comes off the intake manifolds, and 't' the boost guage vacuum line into that. Make sure there's no check valve or solenoid between the vacuum source and the vacuum 't'.

 

3) The ABV does NOT flood the exhaust with air, under any circumstance. That's called air injection, and the millenia does not have that.

 

4) Every line except for the brake booster line is a 'boost' line. What prevents the boost in parts/some of the lines are check valves.

 

5) Unless you have one very fucked up engine regular gas will not cause black smoke.

[latinopikachu]

i fed it a quarte tank of midgrade and i do not have thesmoke anymore... but add the 98 degree heat and it runs like CRAP... no power

[Renboy]

The problem running higher octane than needed is you build up carbon. The carbon build up is firstly an insulator, and secondly leads to higher compression. With the insulation and increased insulation you end up NEEDING higher octane gas...this is probably where you now sit.

[enginph]

The problem running higher octane than needed is you build up carbon. The carbon build up is firstly an insulator, and secondly leads to higher compression. With the insulation and increased insulation you end up NEEDING higher octane gas...this is probably where you now sit.

 

Do you think seafoam can dissolve carbons at that point?

 

[milenkogt]

The problem running higher octane than needed is you build up carbon. The carbon build up is firstly an insulator, and secondly leads to higher compression. With the insulation and increased insulation you end up NEEDING higher octane gas...this is probably where you now sit.

 

Do you think seafoam can dissolve carbons at that point?

 

Honestly i would take the car to mazda and have them do their 3 stage induction service... it will probably run around 90-120 bucks but atleast you have the peace of mind knowing that if something goes wrong they get to fix it, not jiffy lube or bubbas house of oil changes

[///BHRpowered]

if your building up carbon you need to tune your engine to run at factory specs, a major area would be older plugs, or worse, people that actually put 60k on theres.