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Seafoaming Deep Creep On Milly S


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lat - don't fall for rens bullcrap, the low octane gas is nothing but bad for a millenia, its bad enough in the 2.5, but for a forced induction car with high compression?

 

your asking for nothing but trouble.

 

I still await MTS's smog results, in the state of virginia they do not provide the read outs anymore, but somewhere I posted the numbers from my 04 or 05 test, they were lower across the board then what the other guy had posted, forget who.

 

Considering I have a high flow cat thats even worse, but all the while I'm not building up carbon, causing unneccasary wear and tear, keeping power, and not degrading the engine.

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Except I had a high flow cat, alittle bit of smoke under full throttle, especially with a hard down shift is to be expected, infact if it wasn't Iwould be much more concerned about the injectors being clogged because I accidently used regular or something else.

 

My tips were not black by any means, but they, quite annoying dirty thanks to teh huge downpour and grime of the park

 

Ideally I would simply make the exhaust even more free flowing, make the cat a straight through, get the muffler red hot and light the fuel in the exhaust for a nice flame telling people to never tailgate me

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I remember your etest results were about 5x higher than mine. And I admitted I tested on at least 6 month old midgrade gas. So your theory is shot. I'm too lazy to search, but if anyone else can find the thread by all means post a link.

 

And if you think high octane is the best thing you can do for your car, why not swing by a small airport and fill up on aviation fuel, that shit's about 110 octane (pretty expensive though). And then let me know how that works out for you.

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because the car is not designed to run on that, it would give more power, but it would burn alot of things up, that being said there would be even less carbon buildup.

 

the results were lower across the board, you just liked to compare my 40mph test to your 25mph, and as you well know I wish my emissions were higher, but there not, there exactly as they are from day 1 when I took the first emission test to registor the car, a high flow cat allows a bit more, and when I hollow out the precats maybe a bit more as well, but there isn't any carbon build up in the engine, I have full power, and it won't slow and sludge itself to an early death because I'm not some nappy headed ghetto rat who wants to save a few cents here in order to spend thousands and thousands later

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I have zero carbon except for when I slam the gas and extra fuel goes out the exhaust, as it should or there would be injector troubles.

 

rest of the time I'm actually burning my fuel and the car is functioning as it should, we do 25 and 40, or use to. Now all they do is hook the car up to the OBD2 port without the engine even running.

 

cali is a bunch of dirty hippies and if I was ever there I would cut my cat off and leave it on the side of the road just inside the border, interesting to note though, my millenia does not have a ca emissions sticker on it, which I'm proud of, yet mine are still lower because the car functions as it should, with what it should.

 

How about you go dump some e85 in your tank ren and saint, then you'll have lower emissions then me, and the engine might go down the road, but im sure you'll sit there and see everything is just fine.

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I'd like to know what ren is looking at, at my 25mph

 

I read 40 HC ppm - mts had 55

.05 to mts's .18

and wow, NO - 189 to mts's whopping 408

 

believe me, if there was a way to get my emissions higher with a "stop gore-bull warming" decal on my exhaust, without doing harm to the engine or buildup....like using regular, I would do it.

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Actually one of my friend told me. He knows the owner of the gas station and they said that they put some jet gasoline or something that would give more power. He took a ride and when he turned the key off it didnt stop. He went back to the station and they were laughing at him. Idk if this is true or not, i was a kid when he told this to me...

 

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I'd like to know what ren is looking at, at my 25mph

 

I read 40 HC ppm - mts had 55

.05 to mts's .18

and wow, NO - 189 to mts's whopping 408

 

believe me, if there was a way to get my emissions higher with a "stop gore-bull warming" decal on my exhaust, without doing harm to the engine or buildup....like using regular, I would do it.

 

:hmm: all of you should also note.... MY CATS were plugged hard, 90-95% on pre-cats and 50% on main cat when this test was taken... All from the S/C seal issue and running premium. I notice now with the freeflow system, when on mid grade... NO carbon on the tips, with premium... blackened tips like BHRs. ;) and everyones who runs premium carbon generator :rollin:

 

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Actually one of my friend told me. He knows the owner of the gas station and they said that they put some jet gasoline or something that would give more power. He took a ride and when he turned the key off it didnt stop. He went back to the station and they were laughing at him. Idk if this is true or not, i was a kid when he told this to me...

 

 

lol that sounds like what a diesel engine does when it '' runs away'' from you, meaning the engine keeps running by pulling oil thru cylinders, compressing and igniting them, even when the ignition is shut off... the only thing you can do to kill it is block the air intake. BTW i have experienced that, and it is insane to have a diesel keep running even when the key is turned off.... find rags or fire extinguisher.... or hide behind wall and wait for the pistons/rods to come thru the block and self destruct.

 

 

aviator fuel, such as 100octane from air fields has antifreeze type additives to keep the fuel from freezing at high altitudes, or so i've been told.

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There is a pliot of JU who runs 107 octane or something in his 98 5.9, clean as day one. I have no idea why the engine would keep running after you shut it off, it still needs a spark, when you turn off the ignition the spark stops.

 

If I was in doubt about how clean my engine was I would run some octane booster through it, infact I think I will run some of the 103 octane booster through my jeep the next time I change the oil, damn regular gas does infact give much more carbon build up

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As long as it's clean

 

Profit is meaningless to the modern engine, which, regardless of what's specified in the owner's manual, hardly cares what you use — as long as it's clean.

 

Today's engines use highly evolved versions of a device called a knock sensor to adjust settings automatically for low-octane gas. And more engine control computers have adequate memory to allow separate sets of instructions for various octanes. The engine control computers keep pushing to maximize performance on whatever grade of fuel is used.

 

Extreme pressure inside the cylinders causes knock, which is the sound of the pistons literally rattling inside the cylinders. Too much too long can damage the engine. A little now and then won't.

 

The only modern engines that should really need premium are those with superchargers, which force-feed fuel into the cylinders. "You're driving along and just tramp the gas and the knock sensor cannot sense the knock fast enough in some cases," because the supercharger boosts pressure so fast, says Bob Furey, chemist and fuels specialist at General Motors.

 

Burning regular when the owner's manual specifies premium won't void the warranty, nor damage the engine, even the most finicky automakers say. "You're giving up perhaps just a little bit of performance that a customer wouldn't really even notice, it's so slight," says Furey.

 

Automakers say they don't test premium engines on regular to check the difference, but some auto engineers estimate that power declines roughly 5%.

 

"We can't guarantee the vehicle will perform as specified if other than premium fuel is used," says Mercedes-Benz spokeswoman Michelle Murad. All U.S. Mercedes engines specify premium.

 

All Porsche engines are designed for premium, too, but it's not available everywhere. "Our cars must be able to drive all over the world, and so we are able to run on regular," says Jakob Neusser, director of powertrain development at Porsche's research and development center in Weissach, Germany. "You don't have to feel that a mechanical problem or anything else will happen" using regular gas, even in the highest-performance, regular-production Porsches.

 

Premium, in fact, sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. As a result, some engines won't start as quickly or run as smoothly on premium, notes Gibbs, the SAE fuel expert.

 

High-test does have a potential fuel economy benefit. It is slightly denser than lower-octane gas, meaning there's a little more energy in a gallon. But the small difference is hard to measure in real-world use, and that same density can contribute to undesirable buildup of waste products inside the engine.

 

No data show that engines designed strictly for regular run better or longer on premium.

 

The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "(I)n most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner."

 

There is "no way of taking advantage of premium in a regular-grade car," says Furey.

 

"There is no gain. You're wasting money," insists Jim Blenkarn, in charge of powertrains at Nissan in the USA.

 

"No customer should ever be deluded into thinking there's any value in buying a higher grade of octane than we specify," says Toyota's Paul Williamsen, technical expert and trainer.

 

 

Until about 15 years ago, if a car called for premium gas and you pumped in regular, the car began to knock and ping and even vibrate. But that was before they essentially put a laptop under the hood of the automobile, said Dr. Loren Beard, senior manager of Environmental and Energy Planning, for Daimler Chrysler. Now, sensors take readings and tune the engine as you drive by adjusting the timing for whatever fuel you put in the tank.

 

The result is that a car that calls for the mid-grade gasoline will usually run on regular without knocking, Beard said. However, its performance will suffer slightly. How much? It will be perhaps a half-second slower going from zero to 60 mph.

 

Volvo cars call for "premium fuel [91 octane or better] for optimum performance and fuel economy," said Wayne Baldwin, product/segment manager for the S60/S80. "However, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using 87 octane, as the knock sensors and engine management system 'protect' the engine from knocking."

 

Baldwin, a former rally driver who competed in SCCA Pro Rally events, said that engines have changed a lot in the past 15 years. "Cars built before 1990 probably do not have knock sensors and many brands back then relied on high-compression ratios for the best performance. Today [performance comes from] electronically controlled spark curves, turbos, variable valve timing, supercharging and knock sensors."

 

Issues of performance aside, Baldwin said you should never use gasoline that causes your car to knock. "Constant knocking or detonation is a real bad thing for engines," he said.

 

When choosing what grade of gasoline to use, Steve Mazor, principal auto engineer for the Auto Club of Southern California, said it is important to read the owner's manual carefully. The key is to figure out whether premium gasoline is "required" or "recommended." If it is recommended then a driver could opt to use a lower grade of gas, if they were willing to accept slightly reduced performance and fuel economy.

 

However, Mazor added, "We don't recommend that people switch down. Let's say you switch down to regular, and you have to accelerate to avoid an accident and it doesn't accelerate fast enough. The Auto Club can't be responsible for causing that situation."

 

Edmunds.com had a Volvo S40 in its fleet, so we consulted the owner's manual to see the exact phrasing in regard to fuel requirements. It said, "Volvo engines are designed for optimum performance on unleaded premium gasoline with an AKI (Anti Knock Index) of 91 or above. The minimum octane requirement is AKI 87." It appears that Volvo is making a recommendation for premium gas but is not requiring it.

 

In Edmunds.com's forums, debates abound over the pros and cons of using different fuel grades. One member even suggested there was only one type of gasoline, no difference — except for price — between regular and premium. Other members recommended using premium gas even if the manual called for regular. We put this question to Mazor and Beard.

 

Mazor: "All this does is do a very good job of draining your wallet. People used to put in a tank of premium to get 'the good stuff' to help their engines stay clean. But now they put detergents in all grades so it doesn't really get you anything."

 

Beard: "If you have car designed to run on 87 [octane], it doesn't help to run it on higher-octane-level gas. But there are several exceptions." He said that the 3.5-liter Chrysler engines are designed to run on mid-grade gas (89 octane) and it allows them to advertise a certain peak horsepower. However, it will run well on regular gas. "The difference is very small," he said.

 

Interestingly, Mazor noted that at some gas stations, there are only two grades of gas. However, they blend the regular and premium at the pump to produce the mid-grade gasoline. This allows them to have only two underground tanks for the gas storage.

 

In Edmunds' forums some drivers expressed concern about the quality of gas sold at independent gas stations and advised sticking to the so-called "name" brands of gasoline.

 

"Typically the only difference is the additive package they put in the gas," Beard said. The additive package is often put into the gas as the tanker is filled up at the refinery. A common additive is a detergent agent. "The law requires a certain level of detergents in gasoline. Shell, for example, is putting in more detergent. — Whether that has a measurable effect to the driver is debatable."

 

Detergents have a marked effect on engine deposits. "If you take apart a modern engine that has been running on a modern fuel, and compare this to an old engine that was running on old gas, you can see an obvious difference," Mazor said.

 

The biggest difference between today's gas and the gas sold 15 years ago is the removal of lead. Taking out the lead, and developing effective catalytic converters to more completely burn emissions, have radically cut pollution.

 

The major oil companies each have a magical-sounding name for their gasoline and tout its superiority over other brands. The difference is the additives or the amount of detergent added to the gas that comes from the refinery. The benefit of these additive packages is lost to most drivers, who simply fill up at the gas station with the cheapest prices or the one for which they carry a credit card.

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Again, just like with "musc;e cars" from the 70's, just because the engine phyical runs and the laws of thermodynamics are maintained doesn't mean it isn't hurting it, the key is doing what is needed to maintain excellence and keep it clean, as well as a long life.

 

Some automakers do infact void your warrenty if incorrect gas is used, I believe this was true on my old M3 as I seem to remember a large bolded warning in the owners manual, and that wasn't even supercharged

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