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:shifty: What Am I Working On Indeed :shifty:


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My packages finally arrived, and although I really have about 800 other things I need to be doing, I couldn't let it wait. I went to the millenia's location, got to what I need, and have so far spent about 6 hours on it, yet I'm only about 45% done, rest should do faster that I'm not inventing it as I go along. It really is quite amazing, I was debating to even do it, oh how I love my old system, and its image did match that of a millenai more, but this does have clear advantages, not to mention its performance :shifty:

 

 

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just ballasts :shifty:

 

 

 

 

Bixenons do not infact fit in a millenia housing, took a fair bit of effort just to cram them in there raw, then had to rebuild the shroud around that, then reshape it for the lense, which now sits about 5mm further out because it wouldn't allow proper aiming its so tight. I also had to warm up the housings and inflate a ballon inside of them to slighty enlarge the housing.

 

But oh yes, bixenons, gasket color modded, valeo lense. EXTREME

 

So lat can just shut his pie hole

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Thats what i am looking for. Did you bake the headlight to take out the outer plastic? How did you do it? I need to access inside of the light, passenger side is foggy because of dust stuck from inside, driver side has even dead bug inside. I dont know what kind of shitty sealing did mazda used..

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actually saint, the yellowing is caused by crappy bulbs that don't have a UV quartz glass around them, i.e any rice light.

 

also, sealing does mean crap, you know those huge holes in back to get to the bulbs?. Also as with all headlights there are small drain areas which a determined bug can get into.

 

I haven't worked with the 01-02 BUT THEY SHOULD BE GLASS!!!! NOT FUCKING PLASTIC!!! Anyway, about 5 minutes at 350 degrees, make sure all the retainer clips are off before putting it in. Sealant will expand a bit, then using a flat head screw driver start to go around wedging it apart, you have a limited amount of time though, if you don't get it off within the first 45 seconds of so its going to be a real pain

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Shoot. It seems a little hard and dangerous, considering the price of a new headlight set.

 

Nope they are plastic in 01.

 

The lowbeams are philips and highbeam sylviana, neither rice. In my case there is dust stuck inside the assembly in passenger side. And there is some dust (although not very visible) on driver side. The prev owner f.ed up something on passenger side but i dont know what happened. Maybe it got wet inside, wiper fluid? dont know..

 

I fit a hose from highbeam opening and can easily scratch a little inside, that part was crystal clear now. Before that i used the wetsand sht for hours and hours before i realized there wont be any plastic left if i went on..

 

If i could wipe inside with a damp cloth it will clean but no f.ing access :angry2: And with that sht inside the car overall looks pretty crappy. Like a pirate with single eye.. Damn.

 

actually saint, the yellowing is caused by crappy bulbs that don't have a UV quartz glass around them, i.e any rice light.

 

also, sealing does mean crap, you know those huge holes in back to get to the bulbs?. Also as with all headlights there are small drain areas which a determined bug can get into.

 

I haven't worked with the 01-02 BUT THEY SHOULD BE GLASS!!!! NOT FUCKING PLASTIC!!! Anyway, about 5 minutes at 350 degrees, make sure all the retainer clips are off before putting it in. Sealant will expand a bit, then using a flat head screw driver start to go around wedging it apart, you have a limited amount of time though, if you don't get it off within the first 45 seconds of so its going to be a real pain

 

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That looks pretty nice BHR. But for the love of god will you stop being such a cheap prick and get a half decent camera? Question though, if you've got bixenon projectors, what are the actual high beams for now? I see (used the term 'see' very liberally on account of your shit camera) you left the high beam reflector in place, but it really serves no function now. Am I missing something?

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Ren -

 

My entire original housing has been removed, that whole unit is 1 part, the highbeam is part of the shroud for the projector. So if I remove it all you would see is the dust caps. Also, since we have yearly safety inspections I have be using them for that inspection. One of the tests is flashing high beams, the way its setup now if you pull the highbeams the shield will engage, but the hid capsule won't light. Its only powered through the lowbeams, so at night its fine. OEM setups have a circuit relay where if you pull the highbeam it will engage the low beam power and keep it on for a certain amount of time to keep the bulbs from being damaged, but the shield will move. I don't have the expertise to install one of these, let alone program it with the ece, plus its no big deal for me.

 

For halogen bulbs I could simply run a remote lead off of the highbeam so that they would both be on the same power supply and it would be fine, BUT with hid's then I would need 2 ballasts per side.

 

From the exterior it will actually look exactly the same as my old retrofit, same shrouds and I used the valeo lense from my old retrofit projector. Its what under the hood and out of sight that makes the difference.

 

And no, I have no plans for upgrading my camera

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Ren -

 

My entire original housing has been removed, that whole unit is 1 part, the highbeam is part of the shroud for the projector. So if I remove it all you would see is the dust caps. Also, since we have yearly safety inspections I have be using them for that inspection. One of the tests is flashing high beams, the way its setup now if you pull the highbeams the shield will engage, but the hid capsule won't light. Its only powered through the lowbeams, so at night its fine. OEM setups have a circuit relay where if you pull the highbeam it will engage the low beam power and keep it on for a certain amount of time to keep the bulbs from being damaged, but the shield will move. I don't have the expertise to install one of these, let alone program it with the ece, plus its no big deal for me.

 

For halogen bulbs I could simply run a remote lead off of the highbeam so that they would both be on the same power supply and it would be fine, BUT with hid's then I would need 2 ballasts per side.

 

From the exterior it will actually look exactly the same as my old retrofit, same shrouds and I used the valeo lense from my old retrofit projector. Its what under the hood and out of sight that makes the difference.

 

And no, I have no plans for upgrading my camera

You always pick-up change off the street when you see it, don't you? :D

 

So let me understand what you're doing, you put these bixenon projectors in, and use them as your low beams, and then have normal reflector halogens as your highs? That's a waste, they look pretty, but you're only getting half of their usefullness.

 

And lights have nothing to do with the cars computer (I think that's what you meant). They're just a power source, a switch, some relays, bulbs and wires. I thought you were going to wire it so that when you turned the highs on, the shield would drop and the halogen highs would come on. Thus making your cars lighting the equivalent to a welder.

 

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no no no, I installed bixenon projectors, which use a single hid bulb for both my low and my high beam. the high beam reflector is attached so I can't just remove it, plus what would be in its place.

 

Under normal conditions the above applies, but the high beam "beam" will only work if I turn the low beams on, on cars with oem hids there are circuits and relays that say "if high beam is activated, and low beams are off, turn on low beams for 30 seconds (or so) and supply power to shield as need" or something along those lines.

 

What your talking about is what ill do ONE day a year when I have to go through inspection, then the old high beam reflector will be used and thats it. But the reflector and that semi flat area with the projector hole is all 1 part, can't take them apart, and then you would just see the bare plastic and dust caps, quite ghetto.

 

So to review - normal driving = HID high and low beam from the same projector, at night it will be oem, during the day I would have to hit the low beam switch then pull the highbeams to flash or whatever.

 

1 day a year for safety inspection I will use halogen everything...assholes...

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