Jump to content

Type Of Gas For Milly???


Recommended Posts

If you think the MCE is like other engines, and you can ABUSE IT like the other crap ren beats around and doesn't care if it blows a rod or breaks in half because "he can fix it, so it doesn't matter" then I have nothing to add to this thread.

 

Until people figure out that dealership are NOT part of the automaker and say mazda makes ZERO money off maintance performed at a dealer then we won't get anywhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

no, not at all, what I mean it, your all going to pay the price for your rat cheap ways, and ren will complain about "quality" but then fix whatever it is himself.

 

Dealerships are NOT franchises, they simply retail outlets who speciallize, they are the same as a clothing store that carries many brands, Mazda or whoever are paid a small yearly fee, and train the techs, but they make ZERO money off of service

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dealerships are NOT franchises, they simply retail outlets who speciallize, they are the same as a clothing store that carries many brands, Mazda or whoever are paid a small yearly fee, and train the techs, but they make ZERO money off of service

 

Agreed that Mazda don't necessarily make money from the service, and I'm sure they actually lose money for services to fix warranty items, but Mazda do still make money from parts, and I'm pretty sure that Mazda dealers which offer servicing are going to be using those genuine parts and charging some high figures for it.

 

I got quoted over $600 for a major service from my local Mazda dealer.

My old 4x4 and our Toyota cost about $350 for a major service from our reliable mechanic.

I hate to think what Mazda would charge for a timing belt!

 

G.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no, mazda or whoever makes VERY LITTLE money from parts, the dealerships make up the parts (about 20%), on warrenty, yeah they lose money, the dealership bills mazda or whoever an amount given by mazda, which is usually less then what you would pay since there is no markup.

 

sometimes its hard to find a good dealership, I got lucky with mazda.

 

My jeep dealer does good work, but there asses and Im amazed 1 manager has not been fired or sued over cursing very loudly in the waiting room, smoking inside in his office and in the waiting room, rude jokes etc and etc, even I never did that on the job, let alone when dealing with the public.

 

bmw on the other hand is so so, there usually nicer, unless I come in wearing old jeans and a t-shirt, sales reps give me a weird look, then I step into the M and they get confused, good work, but I'm not super impressed.

 

With my mazda dealership, I', impressed everytime, the service manager knows me by name, knows my car, knows what mods I have, knows what my instructions are (do not wash the car, do not rotate tires, do not drive off lot etc) infact when I call he even remembers how to spell my last name.

 

car is always ready when they say, and they even make sure to never park it in the sun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After working for Mazda.... there is about a 30% mark up on parts from the manufacturer to the dealer, then the dealer again marks up the parts to accomodate for their overhead costs and profit. Car dealers only sell cars to make money on aftersales service and parts. The actual profit margin they get on the car sale is one time only, while service(if they are good) is repetitive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you think the MCE is like other engines, and you can ABUSE IT like the other crap ren beats around and doesn't care if it blows a rod or breaks in half because "he can fix it, so it doesn't matter" then I have nothing to add to this thread.

You just proved in your statement that the mce is NOT RELIABLE. If it were reliable then you COULD abuse it. Fucking right I'll fix something if it breaks, and I don't abuse cars. I drive them fast, yes, but the only time (with some rare exceptions) my car goes above 3000 rpm is when I'm on the highway. And even at that it's only because the gearing in the mx6 is extreme (3000 rpm at 100km/h [62mph...damn yanks]). To add to this, I've never claimed that the engine itself is unreliable, it's actually quite good, especially the 'S' with forged rods. If it wasn't for the piece of shit s/c the engine could easily have a redline of 8k and run safely on midgrade gas forever.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

same here, at 4k the cams or VRIS kick in and she just launches.

 

Not much profit in parts? How much is a grille over there?

Mazda here want AU$540 for one !!! (about US$470).

 

I don't know, I avoid investigating parts prices unless I need to know, as it makes me just sad. One should think they regard the Xedos as the "Mazdarati" my mates calls it, and charge accordingly for parts and labour :mad:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

thats because the tsb was issued in 2002

 

"TSB (technical service bulletin) # 01-027/02.

Applicable models = ALL 1995 - 2002 Millenias with 2.5L V6 (KL).

 

Description: After a cold start, MIL comes on with DTC P0300 to P0306 stored in the memory. In most cases this concern may be caused by misfire occurring in one cylinder during idle. The use of premium fuel (high octane fuel) may be allowing carbon deposits to accumulate on the exhaust valve seat, causing momentary insufficient compression.

 

To correct this concern, remove carbon deposits using a suitable top engine cleaner.

 

Note: After removing the carbon deposits be sure to advise the customer to use lower octane fuel (87 or 89 octane) to help prevent future recurrences."

 

and even on the back of my 95 manual it says

"2.5 liter V6 DHOC

Octane rating (antiknock index) of 91 or higher (Average of Research

Octane Number and Motor Octane Number)

You may use an octane rating of at least 87 (Average of Research Octane

Number and Motor Octane Number) at slightly reduced performance"

so the 2.5 never said it was absolutely required.

 

its not going to stop me from using premium in my 2.3, but i thought it was important enough to post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anyone ever experience carbon buildup with their 2.3?

 

I am getting a rattling from the engine which is either a timing issue, carbon buildup, or a vacuum leak. not s/c related because it isnt consistent. it happens intermittently shifting out of first under acceleration....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you all can dig your own graves, but when I come around looking for cars that need to be restored and there engines flushed with prem gas don't get all pissy when you no longer get top dollar.

 

And no, no one has experianced carbon build up on the 2.3 beyond what ANY modern car on the world with any type of engine has

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that hasn't changed my opinion on the miller cycle, i use premium, and will keep using premium. i feel like im harming the car by putting anything less in, whether this is true or not, its worth the extra few cents. But if i did own a 2.5 i would probably use regular or midgrade, never in my S though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The carbon build up (if it occurs) is from incomplete burning of the air fuel mixture, or poor scavenging effect during the exhaust stroke.

 

Fuel with a higher octane rating is less volatile, therefore burns slower.

This slow burn in a low compression engine (eg: KL03 / KLDE ) can result in carbon deposits.

This is exactly why Mazda released that TSB and probably why the Japs get a KLZE with 10:1 compression because their fuel is 100 octane so they can have high compression engines.

 

It may also explain why I see no difference from Aussie premium 98 Octane to our standard 91 octane fuel.

 

So because the Miller cycle is a high power output and boosted engine the premium is probably a good idea, but it might not be the best thing for the 2.5L . I guess someone with a noisy top end is just going to have to try sea foam, carby cleaner or the TSB recommended soaking and see if it fixes the rattly noise.

From memory, the noise is supposed to be caused by carbon deposits on the piston ring and only have an effect when the engine is cold.

I hadn't heard/read of the deposits being on a valve until now.

 

Sorry if I've repeated that, but I've got a cold and my head is stuffed.

G.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...