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Ricing Milly


enginph
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So it is time for the brakes.

 

Front:

IPB Image

 

Rear:

IPB Image

 

Front pads can wait but anyway i will prolly change them all.. There is no reason to keep the rotors but I couldnt decide on whether to go with solids or cross drilled-slotteds. I wont decieve myself, cross drilled-slotteds wont give me any performance but looks good :) So this drops into the rice category and i hate RICE!

 

The other issue is 01-02 has different front rotors and i couldnt find brand rotors (no brembos)..

 

So i found this one:

 

http://store.r1concepts.com/MAZDA/MILLENIA/2001%20-%202002/

 

$170 for 4 cross drilled-slotteds and $100 for solids. Akebono will be my pads..

 

What do you guys think?

 

 

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What ever floats your boat I say. Last time I did any research (which will be soon, my front indicators are squealing as of Nov. 1), I read that drilled rotors reduce durability due to cracking, and slotted had a slight advantage in pad bite. I didn't read anything about reduced durability with slotting, and no idea about trapping gasses. I had good luck with Race Concepts rotors on my Avenger. I got Brembos with a zinc coating and Axxis pads, I never had any issues from the brake system after that to the point of lease return.

 

 

http://stores.ebay.com/Raceconcepts

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Do not forget, anything designed for RACING is designed to be changed each race...

 

 

But the counter sinking of those holes should help the cracking problem a bit. It is known machining practice that sharp edges make for weak points, especially on holes.

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They have them, just not on ebay right now. Send them an email, they normally have everything in stock. Cool thing about them is that they can do whatever options you want as far as dimpled, slotted, or plain zinc.

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Cross-drill, is just a name for the drilled holes across the width of the rotor... boring is the machining of internal holes, like cylinder bores, rifle bores, etc....

 

On a rotor, I would say the center hole for the center hub of the wheel would be the bore.

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DO NOT GET SLOTTED AND X-DRILLED

DO NOT GET SLOTTED AND X-DRILLED

DO NOT GET SLOTTED AND X-DRILLED

DO NOT GET SLOTTED AND X-DRILLED

DO NOT GET SLOTTED AND X-DRILLED

DO NOT GET SLOTTED AND X-DRILLED

 

 

You will lose braking, and you'll have extremely low quality CRAP, there is a reason no race team or production performance car has both, x-drilled only.

 

www.performancerotors.com or performancebrakes is excellent

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Actually by slotting and drilling you actually increase the surface area for cooling, BUT you shrink the contact area of the rotor that touches the pads. The biggest problem here is, if the rotors are machined after they are bought from the manufacturer (which is the case for 90% of the rotors out there), was the machinist smart enough to chamfer the holes for strength and to prevent cracking? Was the rotor balanced after machining? Was it properly cooled during machining to prevent heating, was it properly cooled after if not? Water quenching is BAD, creates microscopic cracks. Slotting and Drilling is race technology, and in saying that.... they normally get changed after every race, and since MOST people do not get their rotors glowing hot going into a corner it is completely un-necessary on the roads except for vanity.

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www.performancerotors.com they sell fronts for 95-01. If it comes short on my 01 i will mount that rotor to their ... Anyway i wont buy drilled everybody complains about cracks if its not brembo.. I will probably find a zinc plated solid.. No rice again..

 

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Saint.

 

cracked rotors are a bunch of bullshit and it NEVER happens unless your out on a race track, with cheap rotors that are not CNC machines and balanced, ebay rotors, like your talking are not.

 

Otherwise slotted + x-drilling greatly increased the risk of this.

 

You think ferrari, aston martin, mercedes, bmw, lamborghini etc, you think they all use x-drilled and x-drilled ONLY on there high performance cars fora reason.

 

Sure what do companies where combined have spent hundereds of billions on research and over 200 years of racing history, what do they know right, asians on ebay have the inside info, x-drilled and slotted, cast iron blanks are the best, duh.

 

Oh, and the whole 95-00 01-02 thing is crap, the rotors are exactly the same, the only difference is the dust shield being a bit smaller, ask malice, he ordered from there and its fine.

 

Oh and btw, performance rotor sells brembo rotors for the millenia, not crap

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I asked to montgomery mazda since there are two different priced rotors for 01 S, one for 95-01 other for 01-02, the guy asked for my VIN and told me to go with 01-02 one... Actually Ren has the rotor book, he should know. There may be a larger milly rotor on the road..

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I was just thinking about this today - are the brakes different between the 2.5L and the 2.3L SC MCE ????? Often a higher powered specification of a car might have larger brakes to go with it.

 

I've needed better brakes in a couple of my cars, one example:

in a small car with 4 wheel discs, braking from 100mph to zero was very quick and efficient at it, but then doing it again 30 seconds later was a nightmare. It had almost no brakes at all from the pedal and I had to use gears & handbrake to pull it up, I was thinking about hooking it sideways at 30mph to try and stop it, but luckily I didn't run out of road.

 

But I don't know if slotted or cross drilled rotors would have made the difference in this scenario as opposed to DOT5.1 fluid and good pads.

Drilled rotors stay cool and to some extent, like slotted rotors, they remove the gasses from between the pad & disc surface & reduce glazing.

I think that in my case I simply boiled the brake fluid and I don't think that special discs would have made enough difference to stop the fluid from boiling.

 

G.

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they are all the same, 94-02 2.5 and 2.3

 

Saint, your saying mazda told you 95-01 are the same, and 01-02 are the same...so whats with 01, its all or nothing.

 

I have seen multiple people buy rotors and pads for a 95-02, and put them on there 01 or 02. They will fit, they will work, but if you get x-dilled and slotted braking will not improve.

 

I tell you what, buy some rotors and pads for a 95 or whatever, if they don't fit, i'll buy them off of you + 10% at retail cost including shipping

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