Before Switching To Royal Purple

[SteveSter]

BHR no one is telling you to change the oil you use. Ren is just letting you know your not using the best for your most prized posession.

[enginph]

Mobil1 is the best street oil in NA according to my research. In EU castrol magnatec is by far the preferred oil by anyone who knows his stuff. I first tried castrol here but it really sucked. Then i figured out that its not the same castrol as in EU. Then i used some regular oil, dont remember the name. Then walmarts supertech synthetic. And finally M1 HM, which is $23/5qts in walmart. According to MO's oil analysis it is still in usable condition after 5k miles. I am sure RP or amsoil is better but doesnt justify the price for me..

 

[SteveSter]

For me peace of mind it all the justification I need to spend almost $8/quart on RP.

[enginph]

 

Oh since Ren mentioned about marketing, I asked a guy who changes regular oil for 25-30. He said he would do M1 for $120 and he bullshit about whereever i go i should look for real M1 bottles and so on. $120 for an oil change..

 

[///BHRpowered]

it is the best.

 

That being said, I have never heard anything BAD about royal purple and willing to test it the next time I have to change the Jeeps oil

[Renboy]

Now I'm confused, I keep reading differing info, on bobistheoilguy it says that RP is group IV. I've decided I'm sticking with RP, it's never let me down in many many km's, and despite my long periods between oil changes my engine is still incredibly clean (inside the valve covers - outside is a whole different story). And it is very cost effective, I spend about $70 every 15-20k kms, running dino oil it would cost about $100 and I would have to change the oil at least 3x as often.

 

Saint, no offense, but given your list of oils that you've experimented with I have to completely disagree with you. If your list included, RP, Amsoil, Elf, Motul, Redline, or any other premium oil and still decided to run with M1 then I might support your claim.

 

Steve, love the avatar.

[///BHRpowered]

yeah, the whole bob the oil guy has been proven flat out wrong by several large tests, including one done by the mythbusters on a smaller scale.

 

I would avoid using amsoil for the soul purpose that the 5.9 guys think its amazing.

[SteveSter]

Why not use something that everyone has had good expiriences with? BHR your being stubborn.

I think you only want to continue to use M1 cause you have a sticker under your hood that says Mobil1.

And thanks ren. The stig is the man. lol

[///BHRpowered]

I believe I just stated above I have not heard anything bad about royal purple, its just overrated, mobil1 is better, But like almsot any other brand they make regular, synethetic blend, and fully synethetic, if you can't read of check the back of the bottle thatrs your problem

[enginph]

 

Saint, no offense, but given your list of oils that you've experimented with I have to completely disagree with you. If your list included, RP, Amsoil, Elf, Motul, Redline, or any other premium oil and still decided to run with M1 then I might support your claim.

 

I have a feeling that i wouldnt say M1 is the best like bhr in that case. Ren even RP says dont run extended periods on high mileage engines. I have to run 15k-18k miles on RP to justify the price and I think fresh M1 is better than 10k miles old RP.

[SteveSter]

But Ren had just proved that older, already broken-in oil lubricates better than new synthetic oil...

[///BHRpowered]

no he didn't, washing your hands?

 

I would post some of the replies that came to that on another forums...but I'm currently banned from them.

 

People who have done the actual lab tests can confirm after about 4500 miles you should change, and at around 7k you MUST.

 

If anyone knwos of a well known company that does the testing of used oil I will submit some of my 3000 mile mobil1

[SteveSter]

I could get that info for you if your really interested. MillyOwner send his oil in for an analysis. I forgot what the results were though.

[///BHRpowered]

The only company I kne that did it no longer does it, and the other place wants like 200 bucks

[latinopikachu]

meh

[Renboy]

I believe I just stated above I have not heard anything bad about royal purple, its just overrated, mobil1 is better, But like almsot any other brand they make regular, synethetic blend, and fully synethetic, if you can't read of check the back of the bottle thatrs your problem

Mobil 1 - Group III mineral based

RP - Group IV PAO based

 

Enough said.

 

And $200 for oil analysis, that statement there proves you're full of ....

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/?gclid=CPeZ...CFQhdswodZjrPfA

[chingon]

Last I checked an oil analysis was around 20 bux. And i've seen it as low as 10-15$

 

From my350z.com

 

Mobile1 is no longer a true synthetic

 

Mobil sued Castrol for calling their oil a full synthetic. Which according to Mobil it wasnt a full synthetic like M1 since its not made from a Group IV base stock.

 

They lost the case, so they decided to start using the cheaper base stock just like Castrol,pennzoil etc. Why make a real synthetic that costs you more money to make then the competition who is charging the same price for their fake synthetic?

 

German Castrol Syntec 0w-30, Amsoil, redline are some of the few remaining TRUE synthetics( Group IV). The other Castrol syntecs, penzzoil platinum and now Mobile 1 are not TRUE synthetics. They are hydrolocked Group III oils.

 

Here is an example of how even yellow bottled Pennzoil Dino outperformed M1 in our engine.

 

 

 

M1 used to be a great oil, now its an overpriced fake synthetic.

 

I used the german syntec in the past. Needless to say, the engine has a lot of miles and it leaked most of it in a matter of weeks. You won't stop leaks from synthetic unless you replace seals/overhaul engine.

 

BHR, Stop being a lemming.

[chingon]

Not all synthetic oils are the same.

 

Mobil1 is a Group III (fake) synthetic, not a Group IV.

AMSOIL is a Group IV True PAO 100% synthetic oil.

 

 

There are many oils out there that call themselves synthetic, but not all are created equal, and that's important to know. You do get what you pay for. Group III synthetic oils only use about 12% synthetic base stocks. The rest is hyrdocracked petroleum (crude oil) base stocks. For major oil companies who have their money in crude oil refining, the word "synthetic" is merely a marketing term. It does not mean 100%, but just that a percentage of synthetic base stock goes into their product.

 

The oils that are commonly mentioned are Group II and Group III synthetics with the exception of Royal Purple, which is a Group V. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic (PAO) but also uses Group V Ester technology. It (Amsoil) gives you the best of Group IV and Group V synthetics.

 

REMEMBER:

 

Mobil1 is a Group III (fake) synthetic.

AMSOIL is a Group IV True PAO synthetic.

 

BACKGROUND

 

In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

 

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has some of the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. AMSOIL differs from Group III oils. As a Group IV oil, it uses 100% pure synthetic base stocks. This is why you can run it for longer intervals.

 

Synthetic oils were originally designed for the purpose of having a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities. Synthetics were thus originally a reaction to the relatively poor refining processes available from about 1930 to about 1990. The original synthetics were designed for the Army Air Force in WW II. They simply could not make their high- performance turbo-charged radial engines stay alive on the available motor oils of the time.

 

One process for making synthetic base oils is to start with a chemical called an olefin, and make new molecules by attaching them to each other in long chains, hence "poly." The primary advantage of Poly-Alpha-Olefin "PAO" base oil is that all the molecules in the base oil are pretty much identical, so it's easy to get the base oil to behave exactly as you like. PAOs are called Group IV base oils.

 

Remember:

 

AMSOIL is a Group IV True PAO 100% synthetic oil.

 

These PAO base oils have an enormous advantage over mineral base oils in low temperature performance and in resistance to oxidation, which is critical in keeping the oil from forming acids.

 

Another type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.

 

Oils that are strictly Group V ester oils tend to be better suited for high RPM, hot running, air cooled engines. 100% ester based oils are usually more expensive than Group IV oils, and don't have the longevity of PAO (Group IV) or PAO/Ester mixes oils. Group V oils perform very well in the shorter term. Oils like Royal Purple and Redline are Group V oils. They perform very well in race engines and in applications where drain intervals are factory spec or shorter, whereas Group IV oils are better suited for the long haul of extended intervals.

 

Whatever oil you choose, know what you are buying. Just because the jug says "synthetic" doesn't mean it is made from 100% pure synthetic base stocks.

 

REMEMBER:

 

Mobil1 is a Group III (fake) synthetic.

AMSOIL is a Group IV True PAO synthetic.

[SteveSter]

Bravo! Finally an explanation that will keep BHR quiet about how Mobil1 is the best. Turns out BHR that you havent been using the best oil this whole time. Thank you.

[Renboy]

:renboy:

 

^^^should be an "I told you so smilie"

[SteveSter]

Well, ren turns out it is a group V oil. Are you still going to stick with RP?

[///BHRpowered]

once again over looking the key point, not ALL mobil1 oils are fully synethetic and they don't claim to be, you have to buy the ones that are, and if you can't tell from the label, you should be able to tell from the price difference.

 

yes ren, 200 dollars, I thought it was bullcrap which is why I didn't go with it, bu 20 dollars I would certainly do

[SteveSter]

What were trying to say is that the oil that Mobil1 labels "full sythetic" is not. In other words, they do not make a group IV or group V oil anymore according to those test.

[ing-schu@online.no]

I guess Mobil does like Castrol; various qualities under the same brand name. The Magnatec range includes both "synthetic based" and "fully synthetic" oil, where a glance at the first number in the viscosity index will tell the difference. 5W-30 or 40 is synthetic, 10W-40 is not. Now weather 5W-40 Magnatec is a true synthetic or not, I don't know, and frankly I don't care either. I expect my engine to last the car out on it, as it probably would on any half decent SG or better dino oil. If maintained as factory recommends, which I do with 15k km change intervals. I also avoid abuse like revving to pretend driving, short trip driving, and severe conditions like temperature extremes.

 

Of course I could switch to Castrol Edge or whatever the 0W-30 longlife oil is called, but it is maybe 3 times as expensive and I am not a fan of 30k km or more oilchange intervals. Which I strongly believe car manufacturers started with to save money when it became popular to sell cars with service included the first three years or whatever. The oil might be called longlife but does it mean the engine will last longer?

[Renboy]

Well, ren turns out it is a group V oil. Are you still going to stick with RP?

I am. It works well and I abuse my car. Today for instance, lowered mx6 on coilovers, faulty knock sensor and faulty water pump (have to change those this weekend) and I still towed a crate of travertine tile (over 500kgs [1100lbs]) 120kms (~75miles). That engine has been put way past it's redline, has been driven through many a snowstorm and still holds strong. Given what I put my car through the oil may be the only thing keeping it alive.

 

That said, I am going to send the oil for analysis once it hits 15000kms to see what's going on in there. $20 to know for sure is well worth the cost.

 

And BHR, what part of doesn't matter what the bottle says didn't you understand. No oil company lists their base stock on the bottle (not even RP ) so just because it says synthetic means that it has synthetic properties, not that it's a PAO or ether base. And it's well documented that mobil1 is a hydrocracked mineral oil, not a PAO or ether. Quit arguing and post something convincing saying that it is a true synthetic other than your 'opinions'.