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2,5 warm engine hesitation


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I have a strong feeling the car has been like this as long as I've had it... Though dealer maintenance ought to have picked it up :glare:

 

What doesn't fit in the picture is that my milage has always been good. I have felt lack of power though, hence this thread.

 

Is there a way to test the condition of the knock sensor? I reckon it will pull a new code if it is bad, maybe I should have the codes read again in a week or so?

 

 

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yea pull the codes again. Mazda actually tried to make a free 400$ off me last month. i went there to fix my cat and im still under warranty but yea they called me as there fixing it and they told me 2 o2 sensors are shot and i asked them if they can just fix the cat and they said no so i was like oh give me back my car than. then they said no we'll just fix the cat for u but its not gonna pass inspection. so when i got it inspected it didnt read any of the o2 sensors were bad. grr they always try to rip me off

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If you're a relatively calm driver then you probably won't notice any difference in fuel consuption as timing advance is based on rpm and throttle input. Timing should be at 10*BTDC at idle and maybe 18* at WOT, whereas currently you may be sitting at 5* at idle and maybe a little higher at WOT. But you should definitely be running rich currently if it is the knock sensor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update; I got the codes pulled again today, along with state inspection, or rather our every second year counterpart.

 

Result: P0325 is back, emissions are within limits. No other issues were discovered. Oh, and I got the codes pulled for free and a 50% discount on inspection :thumbup1:

 

I haven't checked timing yet. I will however order a new knock sensor and intake manifold gaskets. Would there be other parts needed?

 

One more question, will the large nut on the EGR valve need to come off, or is it possible/ easier to dimantle the part bolted onto the manifold?

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The nut has to come off since it bolts directly into the manifold, not the egr (on the 2.5). The gases go through the tube, into the manifold, out of the manifold where the egr acts as a dam, then back into the manifold where they're sent into the cylinders. It's 23mm, and easiest to remove with a plumbers wrench. Do yourself a favour and coat the threads of the nut with antiseize before you replace it.

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Ok and thanks, quite the price difference as expected...

 

Today I looked into the job, and found out three things.

 

1. My knock sensor measures about 590 kohms, is this what a sound sensor should read?

 

2. It turned out some mice have had a party in the V of my engine, and collected at least a handful of seeds, pine needles and stuff. I was afraid they had eaten off the insulation of the sensor wire, so therefore I used a garden hose and a vacuum cleaner to remove it, quite the challenge given the area needing cleaning... I inspected the items sucked out, and found no traces of wire insulation. But still; damn mice :angry2:

 

3. There are two coolant tubes running through the V, are those possible to remove to access the sensor?

 

Ren, or someone else with knowledge?

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2. It turned out some mice have had a party in the V of my engine, and collected at least a handful of seeds, pine needles and stuff. I was afraid they had eaten off the insulation of the sensor wire, so therefore I used a garden hose and a vacuum cleaner to remove it, quite the challenge given the area needing cleaning... I inspected the items sucked out, and found no traces of wire insulation. But still; damn mice :angry2:

 

 

Thats why they put the s/c there to fill the gaps :D

 

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Your sensor is WWWAAAAYYYYY out of spec. It should be in the 560ohm region (<- notice the missing K). The quick break down is, remove battery and intake plumbing, remove intake manifold, remove thermostat housing, remove coolant pipes, remove sensor.

 

As a recommendation, get new o-rings for the larger coolant pipe. The smaller one just gets hose/clamp iirc.

 

2. It turned out some mice have had a party in the V of my engine, and collected at least a handful of seeds, pine needles and stuff. I was afraid they had eaten off the insulation of the sensor wire, so therefore I used a garden hose and a vacuum cleaner to remove it, quite the challenge given the area needing cleaning... I inspected the items sucked out, and found no traces of wire insulation. But still; damn mice :angry2:

 

 

Thats why they put the s/c there to fill the gaps :D

Knock sensor is cheaper than a s/c :D

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Ok, thanks. Slightly out of spec for sure ;)

 

Hopefully I'll get the O-ring out in one piece for measurement. Mazda will probably want 20 times more for it than a machineshop supplier. And I'll definitely change coolant and thermostat while at it.

 

I reckon one afternoon with the pipewrench working anticlockwise, and another clockwise. A mousetrap will take the nightshift.

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  • 1 month later...

Update:

 

I needed close to a full working day for dismantling, including tags on 26 connectors and hoses. The EGR was like one hour alone to get off, but then I manged without damage too. The only other PITA was to get access to the two bolts keeping the thermostat housing in place. Another steep hour including writing a request of guidance from Ren, thanks :thumbup1:

 

Pics to come, maybe even a guide or two :) Knock sensor replacement, thermostat replacement, head portjob...

 

Has anyone ever made a valvecover gasket replacement guide? I found one today, but the pics were missing. Waiting for parts now, guess what? The collars (10-237) were a steep $10 EACH! 18 of those in all, does anyone agree I'm getting raped? I ended up ordering 9 for the rear cover only, and the two gaskets, which I talked down to a total of $180 WITHOUT shipping. :sigh:

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We shall see, maybe I even phuck up the gasket swap lol.

 

I haven't touched the EGR valve, would that be a good idea? I have very little buildup in the intake as it looks. At least what's reached the inlets, only a light brown colored, very thin layer.

 

Actually I've heard of people blocking the EGR pipe here, for performance purposes. :hmm:

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  • 2 weeks later...

25 Nm and 9 Nm...

 

My Xedos is back in business! The new knocksensor, the ported heads and the knife-edged intake seems to have regained the KL's potential and then some more :thumbup1:

 

Next step is tweaking ignition timing, washing the K&N and installing the summer season CAI... Maybe even a bored throttlebody...

 

I might even concider giving it a wash to look nice while towing wood :shifty:

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